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Old 04-11-2013, 11:48 AM   #71
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Muddypaws - where was this place? Want to avoid it as much as over idling.
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Old 04-11-2013, 12:13 PM   #72
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To operate the hydraulic jacks, My owners manual says shut off the motor, then turn the key back to the on position. I don't think I've ever seen a motorhome that needs to have the keys in the ignition to operate the slides. Again, I may lack the expertise of many on here, but I only run long enough to air up, then I idle out of the spot to an area away from the campsite, where I can idle until the temp gauge starts to move.
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Old 04-11-2013, 12:30 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davdeb1 View Post
To operate the hydraulic jacks, My owners manual says shut off the motor, then turn the key back to the on position. I don't think I've ever seen a motorhome that needs to have the keys in the ignition to operate the slides. Again, I may lack the expertise of many on here, but I only run long enough to air up, then I idle out of the spot to an area away from the campsite, where I can idle until the temp gauge starts to move.
Most coaches with full wall slides require 13.4 volts to operate the slide motors. Let me know how you can get that voltage without running the engine. Additionally power gear levelers (which are on many coaches) generally look for 13.0 volts to run the hydraulic pump otherwise they will display a low voltage light and remain inoperable. So bottom line is you may need to run the engine for a bit. Last point is that later model engines with dPF and associated emissions equipment should not be idled, but rather high idled to minimize plugging up as per Cummins.
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Old 04-11-2013, 12:33 PM   #74
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I believe the OP asked about leaving diesel running while stopping for a meal outside coach. If you've just pulled into a rest stop from sustained highway speeds, a short cool down period is a good idea. If you've been winding down country roads for 10 miles since the highway, you've already cooled it down. Same on take off, If you've got a few miles until the highway, the warm up will happen as you drive down the side roads, no need for long idle warm up. It's common sense, which is often not common or sensible.

In 70 posts since the OP, no one has mentioned that many places have laws against idling engines. Most agressive I've seen is Washington, D.C. Many times on tour buses, we'd no sooner park than a LEO would be ordering the engine shut down, even before passengers had disembarked.
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Old 04-11-2013, 01:12 PM   #75
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One thing I've never understood is the idling of engines in the fueling lane. Years ago, conventional wisdom was to leave it run 24/7. I was very surprised reading my operators manual. It stated that extended idling would damage the engine. It does not specifically state how long to idle.

I have searched and downloaded all the documentation I could find, and I have not read anything that supported the practice of 20-30 minute idling, in fact, increasing engine speed by downshifting is recommended to help keep engine running cooler.
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Old 04-11-2013, 04:24 PM   #76
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I start it, and by the time I've got the slides in, jacks up, pulled forward and the car hooked up, that's plenty of time to be warm enough.
exactly what i do. I figure on average that's about 8 - 15 min. just right.
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Old 04-12-2013, 06:45 PM   #77
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This makes sense

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Originally Posted by georgetown350 View Post
Like I said previously, I idle 3 or 4 minutes to let the alternator settle down and raise the jacks, then I baby the gas pedal while leaving the campground and yes I continue at light throttle out on the street until I hit the freeway. In my opinion this is best for the engine. If you idle for 20 minutes then do some 30 mile an hour driving, some more idling etc, you will have a regeneration problem in no time not to mention the other negatives of excessive idling. But as you and I both say, its personal preference. Happy motoring, or in your case idling
I agree with this statement. Think about it people, it is summer time regardless of where your at on this planet.In the morning start your engine and drive it sensibly. I have started lots of diesel engines in -40 weather. Having worked in the northern mines as a mechanic. I have never hurt an engine yet. But would like to add. Coking an engine is old school and is very rare with today's oils. the key is to slow the turbo speed down,turbos speeds run as high as 40000 rpm and possibly higher. You don't want to shut off the engine and cut off the oil supply when the turbo is at high rpm. next time you get the chance open the engine compartment and get your spouse to shut off the engine. The winning noise you here is the turbo winding down. Yes it runs after you shutdown with no lubrication.
I would also like to add the cool down period is important for the pistons and valves as they are very hot when you come off the highway. I would sooner have a turbo go than a cracked engine block or cracked head.
For what is considered a cold engine in the summer time is this. Drive with common sense and leave the RV park as quietly as possible. and keep your foot off the floor till you see the temp come up.
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