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Old 08-30-2014, 10:08 AM   #29
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My 160a Leece-Neville pooped out on our last trip, at about 85K miles, so I just went through this. When removing those smaller wires? Just cut them off at the terminal. Much easier dealing with those corroded studs when the alternator is on the bench. Going back together installing new terminals that have been cut off only cost pennies and just take a minute to install. Bonus is you're assured of connections that will be at 100% at the end of your project.

My "rebuild" consisted of the upgraded, no ignition/exciter wire required, regulator installation (the root of my problem), as well as new bearings and brushes. Everything was sandblasted and coated with some type of clear coating as well. Total cost 125.00

Alternator with updated (newer style) regulator works fine. The only wiring change necessary was to tape off the no longer required lead coming from the ignition switch.
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Old 08-30-2014, 10:15 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by Air Baron View Post

Look, maybe some people are travelling full time and do not have the ability to locate a "reputable shop" that will "completely" rebuild their alternator at the drop of a hat. From what I can tell, my alternator had never been repaired in 13 years. Sounds like you are having considerable trouble with your "complete" $200 rebuilds over the last 13 years.
I went back to check my repair logs and found out that the OEM alternator had only been rebuilt 2 times not 3 in the past 13 years as I had misstated earlier.

First time was in Los Angels California in 2005 and the last time was in the Adirondacks of NY in 2011.

I travel all over the NA continent from Alaska to Key West and have been Full-Time for well over 12+ and I can find a reputable shop almost anywhere's except maybe Death Valley.

Everyone will make their own choices when their alternator finally fails. What I do works for me and may not work for them.

To each their own, up to them.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 08-30-2014, 11:03 AM   #31
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Here's another "Tip" regarding when you have a failed alternator while traveling.

Buy a short 12 inch 6 gauge battery cable with eyes on both ends. Carry it with you and when your alternator fails, install this cable between the two sides of your Battery Isolator relay. Then if you have an on-board generator, start it up and it will keep your chassis battery full enough to keep driving. In fact I have driven hundreds of miles that way. You just don't want to do any driving at night where it requires your headlights to be on. They draw way too much.

This "Tip" will allow you to find that very elusive alternator rebuild shop or even get back home if you have one.


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Old 08-30-2014, 11:07 AM   #32
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That's a great tip, did not know that. Thanks for the advice.
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Old 08-30-2014, 02:06 PM   #33
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As a side-note has anyone here used the LSL products? More specifically the Amps-L- Start. My unit does not charge the Chassis batteries when on shore power or gen. For $60.00 it seems like a great investment. Any thoughts?
That is a great investment and will output up to 15 amps if needed versus its little brother the Trik-L-Start which only puts out up to 5 amps.

There are more expensive options but not really worth the extra money.

Either wire it directly to your batteries if they are in the same compartment and easily accessible or you can wire it to each side of your Battery Isolator Relay. Same results.

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Old 08-30-2014, 06:49 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Dr4Film View Post
Here's another "Tip" regarding when you have a failed alternator while traveling.

Buy a short 12 inch 6 gauge battery cable with eyes on both ends. Carry it with you and when your alternator fails, install this cable between the two sides of your Battery Isolator relay. Then if you have an on-board generator, start it up and it will keep your chassis battery full enough to keep driving. In fact I have driven hundreds of miles that way. You just don't want to do any driving at night where it requires your headlights to be on. They draw way too much.

This "Tip" will allow you to find that very elusive alternator rebuild shop or even get back home if you have one.


Dr4Film ----- Richard
That's how I got home, but I didn't use the "jumper". I put the battery cables normally found one on each side of the relay, on the same side. Different plan, same result.
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Old 08-31-2014, 12:42 AM   #35
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That's how I got home, but I didn't use the "jumper". I put the battery cables normally found one on each side of the relay, on the same side. Different plan, same result.
That method works too providing there is enough slack in the cables to reach the other side.

One other point I should make about the "Tip" that I had posted earlier is that if the bearings seize up inside the alternator then you are dead and will have to be towed.

Using the jumper method only works providing that the alternator still turns but just doesn't put out proper voltage.

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Old 08-31-2014, 07:19 AM   #36
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Just had my Delco overhauled in July. It wasn't the original as the build sheet listed a L-N. The alternator had a bad rotor and slip rings and wasn't putting out a full load of amps. I looked around online and found a shop that catered to the big rigs and had been in business for 77 years. They totally rebuilt the thing in one day and charged me $162. When I went to pick it up I wasn't sure that it was really mine as they had sand blasted the outside and had replaced the terminal strip and replaced the bearings and I had to double check the serial number to be sure. FWIW if you're ever in the Houston area and need alternator work, Tracy Electric, on Homestead Road, is one fine shop.
BTW, they only work on it if you pull it off and reinstall it yourself.
Good luck and safe travels!
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