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Old 04-23-2014, 01:47 PM   #15
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Ed I had the same issue with my Lippert steps, but in my case they sometimes after heating up from driving would not deploy. But in the AM they would. Finally changed the motor and all has been fine for 2 years.

You might have an intermittent over ride switch. That would explain why when you start the RV the steps pull in ok.
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Old 04-23-2014, 03:03 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by USMCRET View Post
Some really good input in here. Thanks guys.

With regard to the magnetic switch, I'm thinking it is not the problem for a couple of reasons: 1) It was replaced about three years ago by an RV shop who was trying to fix this very problem. It worked okay for about a week after I drove it home, then it reverted back to an error condition. 2) Logically, if the magnet were the problem, it would seem that the steps would not work right when the engine is running. As it is, I can turn the engine on and stand there and open and close the door repeatedly and the steps will run in and out as they are supposed to.

Am I missing something?
The magnetic switch in the door frame will only work when it has good contact with the door magnet. If the door is misaligned the contact may not be working at all times.

Why not try applying the magnet to the door frame switch? It costs nothing but a little of your time........
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Old 04-23-2014, 04:15 PM   #17
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Dean, thanks for your insights. I just tried the kitchen magnet and it had no effect. Thanks for the suggestion though.
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Old 04-23-2014, 05:51 PM   #18
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If the steps would not retreat from an extended position with the door open, engine off, step switch on, and a magnet applied to the door frame switch, the switch might be faulty or the power to the switched side faulty. All assuming the switch is activated by a magnet.
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Old 04-23-2014, 07:40 PM   #19
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My Lci steps were recently replaced by forest river now they get stuck in the extended position. I went through all the troubleshooting and nothing. A friend told me to tap on the motor with hammer lightly while someone closed the door. Worked liked a charm and still working I will probably have to replace the motor someday. Watch out for the steps coming up when underneath.
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Old 04-24-2014, 07:02 AM   #20
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Ed
My electric step operates through 2 different fuses and 2 different relays, with 12VDC provided by 2 different battery banks!

The "Ignition Override" fiction is powered by the chassis battery through a relay, and a fuse, (when the key is on).

If/when the key is OFF, all step operations are powered by the house batteries, through a 2nd relay and a 2nd fuse.

Although my step is a Kwikee, your Lippert may operate the same?

If it does, I would guess that your problem is caused by a bad house battery, step fuse, step relay, or something else normally powered by the house batteries.

Good luck.

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Mel, that's certainly a different take on things! I'll check out those points.

Thanks for your input!
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Old 04-24-2014, 09:10 AM   #21
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Your Newmar steps work from your chassis batteries.
Wiring diagram

STEP PARTS

Information found in QT's 1 & 2.

TAKE NOTE OF THIS INFORMATION : Troubleshooting guide/tips found on the parts list info page.
Was the correct door switch used if ever changed out, KEEWIE is not compatible with your steps.
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Old 04-26-2014, 08:27 AM   #22
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Resolved!!

It's amazing what a quiet, rainy evening and a couple of cold brewskis can do for the soul.

So I got to studying on this problem and replayed in my mind everything I recall these steps doing over the past couple of years.

Everything kept pointing to a bad connection somewhere.

So I crawled back under the coach and began to unhook everything and examine all of the connective parts. Holy cow. I had overlooked the obvious, easiest, and cheapest possible solution.

The four wire connector was extremely corroded. I got out a tiny round file and began to scrape away the aquamarine-colored barnacles. As soon as I began to recouple the connector, the steps began to move. I'm glad I wasn't in the way!

Further experimentation proved that this was in fact the problem. They work like new now!

Now I would like to clean these connectors to like-new condition. Unfortunately, I do not know how to remove the wires from the connectors to get a clean shot at the metal components. Does anyone know how to disassemble this connector? As you can see in the pic, I have unhooked the hinged cover, but the wires don't simply pull out. Something is holding them in there. What is it?


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Old 04-26-2014, 08:40 AM   #23
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There is a flair at the bottom of each of the pins in the connector. You need a very small pair of needle nose, or use a small screwdriver to push in around the bottom of each pin while pulling the wire (gently) from the back of the connector.
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Old 04-26-2014, 08:52 AM   #24
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There is a flair at the bottom of each of the pins in the connector. You need a very small pair of needle nose, or use a small screwdriver to push in around the bottom of each pin while pulling the wire (gently) from the back of the connector.
There is an "Electrical Pin Removal Tool" for that: Electrical Pin Removal Tool | 381-087 | J&P Cycles
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Old 04-26-2014, 09:42 AM   #25
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They look like they are glued in.

May be best to soak in some lye.

Mix some up in plastic bag or jar and let plug soak for a day or 3.

Then brush off with small brush.

Dry with hair drier or air hose.

Same for mating side.

Check function and if good slather with electrical grease and reconnect and test.

If still good clean outside and wrap with good tape.
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Old 04-26-2014, 09:50 AM   #26
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Why not make it easy on yourself and get a good electrical spray cleaner, RS has some and probably a Auto supply also.
Spray the heck out of it and than apply some di-electric grease to keep the contacts clean.
You can always splice in a weather proofed plug and splice in new plugs.
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Old 04-26-2014, 02:18 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 007";2025726]Why not make it easy on yourself and get a good [B][URL="http://wd40specialist.com/products/contact-cleaner/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=contact _cleaner&utm_campaign=contact_cleaner_phrase&gclid =CPfQ2L-z_r0CFe99Ogod4zwAWQ
electrical spray cleaner[/URL][/B], RS has some and probably a Auto supply also.

Spray the heck out of it and than apply some di-electric grease to keep the contacts clean.

You can always splice in a weather proofed plug and splice in new plugs.

X2. I would start with a good cleaner and di-electric grease to waterproof for the future. If that doesn't work, I would cut the connectors off and start with new. The pins may be too corroded to be saved.
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Old 04-26-2014, 07:54 PM   #28
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If you cut them then just solder it and heatshrink or tape.
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