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Old 04-26-2014, 07:45 PM   #29
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if you look at my rvfire post i show how to make new stock looking installs of plugs where to get them and parts needed

all so one but way out there as i know you found whats wrong but for any one else that may look and yea seen this befor

really low tech low cost converters for 12v dc yes there out there think of them as SW and MD inverters but as in converters ... alot of motor ECM do not like that and can make things go nuts

so if some one installed one out of a TT not made for a motorhome or not made for a RV at all then it well play games on any like allison TCM any motor ECM step ECM
any thing with a VSS censer so its some thing to keep in mind

alot of us drive around with unsafe none DOT/car safe inverters and converters

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Old 04-26-2014, 08:16 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by mel s View Post
There is an "Electrical Pin Removal Tool" for that: Electrical Pin Removal Tool | 381-087 | J&P Cycles
'96 Safari

This is the correct answer on how to remove them. The tool looks like a tiny metal pipe that has a handle. It fits over the pins and retracts the barbs that hold them in the connector shell. I found it on the web and some new pins and crimp tool. The extractor only costs like 5 dollars.

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Old 04-26-2014, 08:24 PM   #31
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I don't even want to try to explain this ...for what It's worth. I have the same coach as Ed, 05 Kountry Star 3910. A few years ago the steps retracted on their own one evening, while I was doing nothing. It did it again a few days later. My wife came into the kitchen and turned on the ceiling light and the steps retracted again. She surmised, the kitchen light did something, and I thought, "ya right". We're at a rally and Newmar techs come by, I tell them the story, and they looked at me like, " this guy is nuts". The smart wife turns on the kitchen light, the steps retract. The end of all this...they replace the kitchen ceiling light and the steps have worked fine ever since. The techs have no idea why. I don't like electricity, and now you know why. Just get an inquisitive wife!
Off call forever
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Old 04-26-2014, 08:42 PM   #32
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The defective ballast of florescent light sets out a frequency to step control unit operating the control, its happened with refrigerators, Micro's so why not step control.
98KSCA, 99MACA, 03 KSCA-3740- 8.1 Chev-- ALLISON Trans, now in good hands
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Old 04-27-2014, 02:42 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by mel s View Post
There is an "Electrical Pin Removal Tool" for that: Electrical Pin Removal Tool | 381-087 | J&P Cycles
'96 Safari
Awesome. More fodder for the tool box!
2005 Newmar KSDP 3910
ISC on a Spartan
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Old 04-28-2014, 09:30 PM   #34
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The pin puller tools are not universal they are made for the type of pin and even more important the size. The plastic ones are pretty cheap order at least two or three they break very easily.
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Old 04-29-2014, 08:49 AM   #35
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An inside tube from ball point pen often works.
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Old 04-29-2014, 11:05 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by gemini5362 View Post
The pin puller tools are not universal they are made for the type of pin and even more important the size. The plastic ones are pretty cheap order at least two or three they break very easily.
Right you are!
The one at Electrical Pin Removal Tool | 381-087 | J&P Cycles
only works on 6 different type/size pins.

More can be seen here: https://www.google.com/search?q=elec...iw=911&bih=395

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Old 10-05-2014, 04:27 AM   #37
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Usmcret I'm having the same problem with my lippert steps . But I will one up you know my step are stuck in the out position and will not retract with the coach running .has been to the repair shop three times , replace motor,module, gear, door magnet and supposedly they checked all the wiring. They would work a few times and then stop .now the money that I have spent I could have bought a new Assembly.
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Old 10-05-2014, 01:36 PM   #38
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I went through all the same issues. Finally found the sporadic operation issue to be the aftermarket motor I had installed. The motor supplied from Lippert for some reason works correctly with their module.
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Old 10-05-2014, 02:04 PM   #39
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O/P said red wire is always +Battery voltage This is correct and as it should be.. Whomever told him otherwise is an idiot and needs to seek new employment (Since he said it was a Service Tech)

WHITE wires is the one controlled by the power switch.. Measure voltage on that wire, it should be battery or zero depending on the condition of the power switch.. IF it is, you have a control unit fault, if it is NOT (IF it's always hot) you have a short in the wires leading to the new switch, or the new switch is defective, or not connected properly.

If it is always zero (Which I suspect it will be) switch is bad or wires broken or bad connection or blown fuse not shown in the diagram but included on my steps.

To test.. Measure voltage at switch terminals. Switch off should show battery on one and very low if any on the other.. Switch on should show battery battery, but I think that is where the problem is, no 12 volt to switch.

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12 volt, steps

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