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Old 12-02-2013, 05:12 PM   #15
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We use the plastic jack pads. They can be a big help on soft ground and really hot asphalt. I carry a 4 ft. level, but in a pinch, a glass on it's side on the counter top will work.
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Old 12-02-2013, 08:48 PM   #16
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I have a slightly simper way to do it. I find as level a spot as I can. Then I turn the key to accessory. Then I hit the button that says level. I wait for it to level and then go hook everything up. Once in a while I get a light that says end of travel so I retract the jacks move around in the spot until and try again. If I cannot get anywhere level enough I ask for another spot. If that does not work then I get out a couple of my 2x 12s and try again. But usually the hit the button and go on works for me.
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Old 12-02-2013, 09:20 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by macantic View Post
You may not need boards to level,but I use them anyway to insulate the coach from the ground in case of lightening strikes.
Sounds like a good idea but if the wood soaks up any water it will conduct electricity. You might want to put rubber on top of the wood to insulate your coach, just a thought.
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Old 12-02-2013, 09:35 PM   #18
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As with most leveling systems a 'level set' has to be done one time to find TRUE level for YOUR rv....

counter tops, floors, even fridge bottoms are not necessarily level !
what I did on my previous rv without automatic levelers was once I got it perfectly level (however you define it )
I got two small levels like these:
RV Levels, Set of 2 - RV Designer E401 - Levels - Camping World
one for front to back and one for side to side...
then stuck them on the upright surfaces within eyesight of my controls....

once leveled like that all I do the next time is watch my levels and get it within a few degrees of level if I have an absorption (rv) fridge...

with the residential fridge and auto levels I have now, it's not nearly as much work push the auto level button while opening a beer !
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Old 12-02-2013, 10:09 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by trode View Post
This is, more or less, the way I set up, guess I am doing it right after all. The binding front door confuses me if I am level
Guess I am luckily. Have never had any problem with door binding.

The refrigerator having to be perfectly level, not so much. Close counts. Anyhow, I have checked my refrigerator and floor both against the countertop - all pretty much the same. So I use the countertop.
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Old 12-02-2013, 10:38 PM   #20
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What worked for me

Hello all, what I found to be simple and a "Very" effective way to make leveling easy is to go to Home Depot, buy a "Bulls Eye Level" it's a very simple round level about 1 1/4" in diameter,(comes with peel & stick on the back) Level your coach using whatever method you like. Once you have it just where you want it I put a gob of silicone on the back of the level, (after peeling the peel & stick off of course) I put it down beside the Allison shift control to my left, (you can mount it where ever you like) Then I am able to look directly down on it to get it level. Once I am satisfied it's positioned as level as possible, (remember the gob of silicone gives you some wobble room) let the silicone dry and your leveler is right there beside you without ever leaving your seat. Done this on the past 2 coaches and it works great!

Hope this might help someone out there, I have always liked the "KISS" method, keep it simple stupid. Has worked for me over the years.
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Old 12-02-2013, 11:47 PM   #21
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We use the plastic jack pads. They can be a big help on soft ground and really hot asphalt. I carry a 4 ft. level, but in a pinch, a glass on it's side on the counter top will work.
. Sorry to disagree, Pepper2, but plastic pads, especially the orange ones you pick up @ Camping World, are almost useless. They have no tensile strength and fold up around the jack stands...even my large square rear pads. A buddy took the plastic ones, traced out eight 3/4" exterior plywood squares, doubled the 8 into four 1 1/2" pads (glued & screwed), coated them with polyurethane, then we screwed those orange plastic pads to one side (smooth side exposed). He also attached a 4' loop of 1/4" rope to each one to make retrieving them easy. After messing with see real other versions of pad, these are outstanding!
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Old 12-03-2013, 07:23 AM   #22
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I use jacks everywhere (even on the level concrete garage floor) to keep the coach from rocking and rolling, preserve the seals in the jack cylinders and so I don't roll out of bed.
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Old 12-03-2013, 08:48 AM   #23
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OK

So to summarize from some of the posts here, First; my coach does not have auto leveling, so I have to operate front, back, left rear, right rear. Second; I have adjusted the right/left, front/back, bubble level mounted on the armrest near the jack controls when I have felt I had a very level set-up, and mostly use it but have DW confirm with torpedo level on counter of hard floor. Third; I do not use any boards under jack pads, agree with prior post that the plastic ones I got a CW are virtually useless here, gave those away. The binding door confuses me if I am level.

I may cut some 2x12 up to put under wheels for major corrections, or for use under jack pads if soft ground. I occasionally use a 4 foot level on the side molding strip on coach exterior and bumper seam at rear cap to check for level, but major hassle to communicate with DW doing this. Have never had any refrigerator problems, so I guess I am doing good enough.

Last, but certainly not least, the beer is also a step I include in set up, level or not!

Thanks for all the posts.
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Old 12-03-2013, 08:58 AM   #24
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Hi.
I read all of the above threads and did not see where the only true reason to level is for the Refrigerator.
When I first purchase my R.V. the manual stated that in order to be sure that the Frig. was level was to put your level on the freezer shelf then level it with your jacks or air bags (what ever) After the Frig. is level then you could fine a convent place that is secured and stable such as the sink counter or a shelf, something that you know will always be stable that way you can go to the same place all the time when you are leveling your Rig. and know that your Frig. is level also.
Just a thought.
Terry Walter
Agreed!
What needs to be level is the refrigerator.

When my coach was new to me I established the true level of the refrigerator freezer shelf using a torpedo level.
Then I permanently attached a small level to the dash and another to the left of the driver seat...
(like these:Two Way Graduated Never Fade Level

I rely on those when leveling.

BTW, if/when the refrigerator is ON I always level the coach when stopping/parking for more than a few minutes.
If/when that is not practical we turn the refrigerator OFF.
IMO that is one reason my 17 year old Norcold absorption refrigerator still works/cools like new.

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Old 12-03-2013, 11:29 PM   #25
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[QUOTE=trode;1830545]So to summarize from some of the posts here, First; my coach does not have auto leveling, so I have to operate front, back, left rear, right rear. Second; I have adjusted the right/left, front/back, bubble level mounted on the armrest near the jack controls when I have felt I had a very level set-up, and mostly use it but have DW confirm with torpedo level on counter of hard floor. Third; I do not use any boards under jack pads, agree with prior post that the plastic ones I got a CW are virtually useless here, gave those away. The binding door confuses me if I am level.

I may cut some 2x12 up to put under wheels for major corrections, or for use under jack pads if soft ground. I occasionally use a 4 foot level on the side molding strip on coach exterior and bumper seam at rear cap to check for level, but major hassle to communicate with DW doing this. Have never had any refrigerator problems, so I guess I am doing good enough.

Last, but certainly not least, the beer is also a step I include in set up, level or not!

Thanks for all the posts.[/QUOTE

Sorry, I assumed you did not have auto leveling when you asked the question I was just being facetious about hitting the button to level.


I have a thought and not too sure if it would work or not. If you look on WWW.tractorbynet. com forum they advertise the lnclinometers 25C Dual Axis Tiltmeter - TractorByNet.com Store

The one I posted the URL for is a dual axis. You could level your coach put this up wherever you wanted. It fits on about anything if you wanted you could even put it on your mirror bracket since they are weatherproof. I would think it would work for level. They are made to show the amount of tilt a tractor gets when on hills. Rollover is a big problem for tractors so someone came up with this.
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Old 12-04-2013, 12:00 AM   #26
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Level the Frig. first.

It's possible to level the Rig. and not have the Refrigerator level.
Level the Frig. first by putting the circle bubble level in the freezer area then check a place that is stationary like the counter top where it's level then when ever you park your Rig. again put your level in the same place that way you will know that your Frig is level.
That is what leveling the Rig. is all about.
Just a thought.
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Old 12-04-2013, 04:16 AM   #27
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Most refrigerators are install level in your coach's when built, you level your coach your fridge will be happy with the coach level. If the level sensor for jack system is out of wrack than get it fixed.

Wood pads or plastic can be used on soft turf or ground to give a more firmer foot print for jack pad.

If you have AUTO LEVEL make sure your on a level pad if not than level your coach manually or run the risk of popped or cracked windshields.

Lighting hitting the coach are numbered but if your protected power wise you should lead a good life.

Here is a link to a few items that may help you out and to understand a few things in your coach.
If anyone is interested there are three links in my signature below to more interesting stuff.

Be safe and enjoy your RV's.
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Old 12-04-2013, 04:54 AM   #28
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My Mountain Aire I believe was factory set(leveling system) formost with rain water in mind as when it auto levels the Coach is slightly to the rear and slightly to the drivers side, unless it is a really heavy down pour all the rain water goes off the rear right side of the Coach, along with the water from the a/c units when it is not raining. My fridge is fine. I just had not seen where anyone talked about the water draining off thier roofs and thier leveling procedure here.
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