Community Forums

trode · 12-02-2013, 05:37 AM

Was just reading a thread on the ford chassis section about "chassis flex", and made me think of something that I have wondered about since getting the MH.

Leveling. My particular method is to get to a spot on the site that is level as possible, then set parking brake and activate jacks, I run front just to point I feel them hit the ground, then rear same thing, at that point I check side to side on the level mounted near the jack controls, and have DW put level on kitchen counter, do my side to side adjustment, when level side to side I check the level front to rear using, again, the mounted level and also consider the one on the kitchen counter. Usually at this point it is front that needs to be brought up to level. Once leveled by this manner we open slides and commence with hook up.

Results are usually pretty good, but sometimes I end up with entry door binding a bit and some doors indicating that I am not level, as they move on their own when not latched. If this is significant I usually retract jacks and re-do without closing slides. If necessary I have DW put level on floor to "confirm" readings.

Short of carrying a large, space stealing assortment of boards to place under wheels, what else do you all suggest. Is this the right approach or not?

I used the orange leveling blocks on the TT we had, but they were under significant stress under a 6,000 lbs trailer, and were barely large enough for those little tires, so think they wouldn't work very well under a 18,000 lbs MH.

Let me know what you do.

wildmandmc · 12-02-2013, 06:00 AM

i know ppl that use 12/12/2 inch presure treated wood, cut to 1 foot or so. take abt 5 of them with ya.

djbmsu · 12-02-2013, 06:26 AM

Your procedure is fine, remember when your coach is built it is not perfect so when you level your coach what is inside may not be perfectly level and some doors may move on you.
We have a new Phaeton with air suspension and an automatic leveling jacks and that happens with a door or two at times.

donhoward49 · 12-02-2013, 06:39 AM

I think what you are doing is correct. I would not carry any boards, thats why you have the jacks. It's just camping, you don't need everything to be perfect.

vsheetz · 12-02-2013, 07:20 AM

My procedure.

Set parking brake.
Drop all jacks just to where they make contact.
Check level on countertop with 6" torpedo level.
Adjust front and back as needed.
Adjust side to side as needed.
Extend front slide.
Extend rear slide.

If front wheels off the ground, that's ok.
No blocks unless absolutely needed under jacks to attain level.

trode · 12-02-2013, 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vsheetz

My procedure.

Set parking brake.
Drop all jacks just to where they make contact.
Check level on countertop with 6" torpedo level.
Adjust front and back as needed.
Adjust side to side as needed.
Extend front slide.
Extend rear slide.

If front wheels off the ground, that's ok.
No blocks unless absolutely needed under jacks to attain level.

This is, more or less, the way I set up, guess I am doing it right after all. The binding front door confuses me if I am level

GaryKD · 12-02-2013, 11:31 AM

Hi trode,
Consider not using a countertop. There are three reasons to level the coach (not in order of importance):
1. proper refrigerator operation
2. keep the wife happy
3. stabilize the coach

Use any method your comfortable with to get the coach level. Check with the refrigerator door. Open to 45 then 90 and the 135 degrees. Did the door stay put? If so, you are good to go and extend the slides. You can refine the level as much as you like as long as the refrigerator door stays put when opened to the above mentioned positions.

"007" · 12-02-2013, 12:33 PM

If you over lift the front or rear jacks you will flex the chassis frame rails and cause your side door to bind.
If your jack system allows operate your front and rear jack on same chassis rail and lift that chassis rail until yellow light moves to opposite side.
Than lift that side rail front and rear jacks until yellow light goes off.
This is for HWH jacks.
By lifting the side rails it won't possibly twist the chassis rails and pop the windshield out of their mounting.
You are only stabilizing the coach not lifting wheels off ground.
If front tires come off ground ask for a leveler site.

CampDaven · 12-02-2013, 01:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by donhoward49

I think what you are doing is correct. I would not carry any boards, thats why you have the jacks. It's just camping, you don't need everything to be perfect.

Some places have soft soil, some places you park on grass. In the desert, rain can make jack pads settle, usually very unevenly, and sometimes a lot.

buckstand · 12-02-2013, 01:15 PM

I park as level as possible, then, let the air out of the suspension.
After that let front jacks down till touch.
Back jacks down to level side to side and fore and aft if needed.

I found a true level spot on my dash and lay a small level on that spot to level. The bubble level beside the jack control is not a true level, but thats my old coach. I put down 2X12's if spot is soft.

macantic · 12-02-2013, 01:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by donhoward49

I think what you are doing is correct. I would not carry any boards, thats why you have the jacks. It's just camping, you don't need everything to be perfect.

You may not need boards to level,but I use them anyway to insulate the coach from the ground in case of lightening strikes.

mel s · 12-02-2013, 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by macantic

You may not need boards to level,but I use them anyway to insulate the coach from the ground in case of lightening strikes.

macantic
A lightning strike travels hundreds, or thousands, of feet through air........ what possible protection can some boards under RV tires provide?
Mel
'96 Safari

LakeKerrGuy · 12-02-2013, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by macantic

You may not need boards to level,but I use them anyway to insulate the coach from the ground in case of lightening strikes.

A wet dirty board is not much protection. With a direct strike, it will not matter at all.

Walter5555 · 12-02-2013, 02:39 PM

Hi.
I read all of the above threads and did not see where the only true reason to level is for the Refrigerator.

When I first purchase my R.V. the manual stated that in order to be sure that the Frig. was level was to put your level on the freezer shelf then level it with your jacks or air bags (what ever) After the Frig. is level then you could fine a convent place that is secured and stable such as the sink counter or a shelf, something that you know will always be stable that way you can go to the same place all the time when you are leveling your Rig. and know that your Frig. is level also.

Just a thought.