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Old 12-13-2010, 07:56 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Purplefans & Harvey View Post
What about side to side leveling? Our driveway has a tilt. We stored our old Class C, without problem, leveling the left front and rear tires by using wood to raise the tires. Is that a problem with Class A? And when we set it up for our camp in the driveway in the summer, the rear tires need to be raised. Am I causing problems for the MH?

Nope. We have to block the front passenger tire when we park in the street in front of our home because the area right next to the curb is lower than the street side (where the front driver tire is).


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Old 12-14-2010, 09:13 PM   #16
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I'm still trying to figure out how a box standing on 4 sticks can roll anywhere?

A class A doesn't care if it is level or not. It's that darned amonia fridge (same kind as in your fiver) that doesn't like to be RUN when it is level. My driveway slopes pretty bad too, as do many campsites. I carry blocks for under the jacks if I need therm. I don't worry about lifting the rig off its tires. Boxes stitting on sticks cannot roll. I camp with a buddie with a fiver. On any site, I can set up in half the time he can. In my lawn chair under the awning with a cold one before he's even got the fiver unhitched and level, every time.

I gotta real nice 99 pace arrow, thinking about moving up to a deisel, send me a pm if you wanna talk about it.

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Old 12-15-2010, 05:19 AM   #17
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My jacks have enough range to lift the coach right off the ground (DO NOT DO THIS EXCEPT IN VERY CONTROLLED CONDITIONS) The only time I've done this is at a tire store though.. We did control the conditions, absolutly flat floor, Blocks on the other side tires to make sure it did not move.. that kind of control.

Now... The problem is the jacks do not have the POWER to level me more than a few inches.. So I carry a set of 2" Stair steps

These are 2x8 boards.. one is 2' long, the other 1' they are glued and bolted.. I can set them in front of the LOW tires (one per tire) and drive up 2" or 4" (eventually I may add six inches (A 3rd step) Seem to work well. Then I use jack pads as needed.
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Old 12-15-2010, 06:24 AM   #18
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"I'm still trying to figure out how a box standing on 4 sticks can roll anywhere?"

Don't know about your "sticks" but the hydralic levelers under my Adventurer are more like "twigs" to my thinking.

With almost 12 tons sitting atop 4 small diameter rods that have significant play, I'll bet I could create enough motion just rocking the box to break or bend one or two of them. And if that were the front levelers, it could then roll if the rears (parking brake) were off the ground.

Not to mention, the shakey feeling inside the box with even the front wheels off the ground, makes me want to walk softly.

I just don't feel confortable w/ wheels off the ground.

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Old 12-15-2010, 07:24 AM   #19
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[QUOTE=JimM68;753149]I'm still trying to figure out how a box standing on 4 sticks can roll anywhere?

Dont believe anyone said it would roll, but under the right conditions it certainly could fall off the jacks. Seen it happen on two ocasions. Once on the outer banks of Northcarolina when a gust of wind caused the front jacks to buckle, and once in Ouray Colorado when the rear wheels were lifted of the ground and all four jacks were destroyed when the inexperianced couple tried to level on too much of a grade. A rather expensive mistake.
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Old 12-15-2010, 09:15 AM   #20
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I did the thing with the wood blocks also but they were too heavy. Went with Lynx levelers, work fine and light weight. If you use them be sure to buy the Lynx Caps so you will have a flat surface for the tires. They also don't absorb water like wood,and that adds even more weight.
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Old 12-15-2010, 09:34 AM   #21
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When I had the 5'er I used 2X10 planks, about 5 feet long. The foot print of the tire would be supported all the way around, which, according to tire manufacturers, is the proper way to support the tire.

Now, I have the MH. My front passenger side compartment is dedicated to 8 2x10's, four of them 12" long, and four of them 16" long. Each wood block is covered with a 5/8"piece of plywood using wood screws. The plywood gives the wood block some elasticity, and if it does split a little the plywood holds it all together. I also keep two bags of those orange plastic blocks. When on the road I can use any combination of the wood, and use the plastic blocks as a "ride-up-on" platform. I do not park on the plastic blocks because of the surface not being one smooth platform. I can also use the wood, or plastic blocks for the leveling jacks when on a soft surface.

Each of the wood blocks are a close to 2-1/2 inches high with the plywood added

My driveway slopes such that I require 3 of the wood blocks under each front tire. I made 2x10's to a length that each is little longer than the other for each tire. I keep these in the garage. They do the job of raising the front about 7 inches. Now, keep in mind that I'm running the front tires up a considerable distance. I NEVER do this without the DW standing next to the driver's window directing me. I have one foot on the brake and one foot on the accelerator pedal. Going to far can lead to a very sudden drop. One could develop a "stop" for the tires to go against and that is in my future plans.
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Old 12-15-2010, 10:12 AM   #22
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Wayne M read my post again. Buy the Lynx Caps (smooth cap you put on the Lynx Blocks) to park the tires on.
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Old 12-15-2010, 10:21 AM   #23
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Before anyone runs out and cuts jack pads it would be a good idea to get the jacks in a vertical position but not extended, then measure how thick the jack pads can be without being unable to get them under the jacks. Of course this measurement should be done in your driveway or on a flat surface.
Note: Due to the high pressure put on the jack pads I would recommend using plywood. I made pads using 3/4" plywood X2 glued AND screwed together to attain the maximum thickness I could fit under the jacks.
Regular lumber has the grain running in one direction and can split under pressure. Plywood has layers with the grain running in various directions that reduce the possibility of cracking.

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