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Old 06-10-2013, 01:16 PM   #29
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We put down the levellers on the ground first and drive the rig onto them. Then, once parked we put blocks under the jacks before we do final levelling with the system.
Do you try to avoid situations that require you to use blocks under the drive wheels? Reading your blog I would assume you have more latitude to maneuver so that your nose is low since you don't need to worry about the location of hook ups a lot of the time.

Great blog BTW!
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Old 06-10-2013, 01:21 PM   #30
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For rigs with levelers...why would I use blocks under wheels? Maybe it is possible that I could see a low spot where a wheel or 2 gets lifted and then I use blocks to regain ground contact. Of course, that would seem to require that I over raise (if I can) the jacks to get blocks under the wheels and then lower the jacks back down to put some weight on the blocks.
You do want to be careful to not hyper-extend your jacks. In this case, we first put 2x12 blocks under the jack pads to help raise the coach without over extending the levelers.
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:04 PM   #31
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You do want to be careful to not hyper-extend your jacks. In this case, we first put 2x12 blocks under the jack pads to help raise the coach without over extending the levelers.
Why wouldn't you just drive onto the blocks as opposed to lifting the rig?
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Old 06-10-2013, 07:28 PM   #32
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Do you try to avoid situations that require you to use blocks under the drive wheels? Reading your blog I would assume you have more latitude to maneuver so that your nose is low since you don't need to worry about the location of hook ups a lot of the time.

Great blog BTW!
YES (and thanks!). Generally we aim to raise the front rather than the back, so more often than not we're drving the front tires onto the levellers. That's always our preference. But every now and then we end up in a situation where the back tires have to be raised. It's not often, but it does happen.
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Old 06-10-2013, 07:42 PM   #33
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Why wouldn't you just drive onto the blocks as opposed to lifting the rig?
Um...because we are backing the rig onto our sloping driveway, and there is a limited amount of space. New garage doors are expensive.
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Old 06-11-2013, 12:40 AM   #34
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Ok, so here is how I do it! Checking in at campsite office, if not instructed to use blocking under jacks by office I continue to site. Pulling up to site I use my years of natural balance to access the leveality (new word=extra points) of the site. Pulling coach into place I let air out of bags turn on the auto leveler site tight till display shows level. Man I love this coach.

It was always so depressing to see DW toting blocks of all sizes to get the old 5er level, that why it was so easy to talk her into the DP!

If campground says they have soft soil or asphalt I'm prepared with some 2x12x16 that I place under jack pads (ok, so the DW places them). I've never had to use them at any campsite yet, but I'm prepared!
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Old 06-11-2013, 08:58 AM   #35
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I still have the lumber and (2) "lego" packs from the TT. As recommended by my manual, I made (3) jack pads out of plywood (with the hole for the awning rod). So far, the sites I have been assigned (MH is 43') have been fairly level. Once I had to put one layer of lumber under the steer axle tires. I am not looking forward to the day if I have to block the rear (duals plus tag). I haven't tried the orange legos (tires or jacks) as I do not think they will hold up their portion of my 38,000lb MH.
My year MH (2006) has three levelers (2 behind the tag and one behind the steer axle). I understand the concept, that one jack will act as a pivot as they adjust the height and less likely to rack the frame and possibly pop the windshield. However when I have to raise the front I can get some movement when walking around the living room area. Thus the blocking of the front axle (and jack) to reduce the movement.
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Old 06-11-2013, 09:22 AM   #36
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I have 6ea 2x8 wood blocks. They are designed so that I can stack up to three of them up on two wheels (three blocks each). They have 3/8 inch exterior grade plywood glued and screwed onto them to eliminate splitting of the 2x8's. They are cut at a shallow angle on each end to allow the MH to travel up onto the blocks without pushing them out of place. The length of each block allows the MH to travel up on top of all three without a problem. This means that the blocks on each side are short, medium and long. They work great. The only problem is that they are a bit heavy and take storage space. The main reason for doing this that we use remote campgrounds that usually are not paved or leveled. It is best to have the two rear wheels on the ground as they are the wheels used by the parking brake. I have also found that in unlevel situations, I need additional wood blocks under the jacks because they won't always reach the ground when the front end of the coach is elevated. I usually put at least one wood "pad" under each jack anyway. I extend each jack to the ground pad before leveling so that all rocking of the coach is eliminated. Note also that if you are elevating the rear of the coach at all, you must put blocks under BOTH of the rear tires on each side to avoid over-loading the tires and axle.
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Old 06-12-2013, 12:54 AM   #37
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This was the only way I could get the RV level in my driveway. 6x6 with 3/4 inch plywood on top. So between the ramps and air leveling I can get my coach level. I have smaller ramps made up to use at Campgrounds. 4x4 with 3/4 inch plywood on top. I have not used them yet. But it allows me to level about 10 inches from front to back.
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Old 06-12-2013, 01:44 AM   #38
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On our DSDP I store it for up to six months with the front tires completely off the ground.
Newmar says it's OK.
Spartan says it's OK.
HWH says it's OK.
Reyco-Granning says it's OK.
Koni says it's OK.

After 11 years I've had no trouble with the air bags, shocks, nor ride height valves.
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Old 06-12-2013, 10:45 AM   #39
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On our DSDP I store it for up to six months with the front tires completely off the ground.
Newmar says it's OK.
Spartan says it's OK.
HWH says it's OK.
Reyco-Granning says it's OK.
Koni says it's OK.

After 11 years I've had no trouble with the air bags, shocks, nor ride height valves.
You must have the 12000 or 16000lb jacks then cause that's a lot of weight to suspend for that long.
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Old 06-12-2013, 10:55 AM   #40
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Went into a park once needing them, I now carry two 4-piece sets of these:
RV Leveling Utility Blocks Leveling Pad Leveling Blocks Camping Jacks Trucks | eBay
(You can also see a RV Geeks YouTube of them at:
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Old 06-12-2013, 10:59 AM   #41
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Why would it make any difference how long of time it is holding the weight? Isn't that what they are made to do?
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Old 06-12-2013, 12:15 PM   #42
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I built four 4" wooden blocks. I use them every time (dirt, gravel, pavement, grass etc.) When I let the air out, the leveler pads come to within 3-4" of the block. This way I don't have to extend them so much plus many wet and damp camp sites are so soft that the pad would sink excessively without the blocks. Just my way of leveling. I know everyone has their methods. This one works for me.
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