Leveling Blocks Best Practices or Pictures?

[YC1]

On rare occassions I block our 40 footer if very unlevel. I made them from 3/4 inch plywood glued together and cut into 18x18 blocks.

Drilling a hole along one edge I can use the awning pull rod to put them under and pull them out without crawling under. I also have a small cable to raise the mud flap and hold it up if the rear is going extremely low.

Yes I have dug the ground and placed my tires in them in very unlevel boondocking places.

[Mr_D]

Originally Posted by Diplomat Don

-The DP is the largest of the coaches we've had and because of it's extra length, it's less likely to require blocks.
-We also end up with a larger/better site because of the size of the DP and find it more level.

Actually, due to the length, you are more likely to need blocks. 6" over 15 ft, is more than 6" over 35'
However, it is also possible that you are being given sites that are level as they would also know larger rigs require level sites.

[PyrateSilly]

This is what we made and did. We use them for several other things besides leveling.
RV Leveling Blocks Built for Indestructibility
Much cheaper for us to make then buying all the other stuff.

[Sky_Boss]

I'm gonna confess...I'm a bit confused about this subject.

In simple terms for a simple mind I have level jacks and I think I understand that they level and hold the weight of the coach. I think I also understand that it is a questionable practice to lift wheels off the ground with them.

Now...

For rigs without levelers it makes sense to use level blocks under the wheels. No confusion there.

For rigs with levelers...why would I use blocks under wheels? Maybe it is possible that I could see a low spot where a wheel or 2 gets lifted and then I use blocks to regain ground contact. Of course, that would seem to require that I over raise (if I can) the jacks to get blocks under the wheels and then lower the jacks back down to put some weight on the blocks.

It seems that with a longer tag axle MH that it could get a bit crazy if one has to block a drive and tag axle. I suppose the simple answer is for "big rigs" to stick to "resorts" that generally have better leveling?

As a minor side bar to the whole level issue I think I have read that an RV is more stable when the levelers are extended to the minimum needed to make the RV level while at the same time keeping as much weight on the tires as possible. Is that a fairly correct understanding?

[Deucenut]

Originally Posted by Sky_Boss

I'm gonna confess...I'm a bit confused about this subject.

In simple terms for a simple mind I have level jacks and I think I understand that they level and hold the weight of the coach. I think I also understand that it is a questionable practice to lift wheels off the ground with them.

Now...

For rigs without levelers it makes sense to use level blocks under the wheels. No confusion there.

For rigs with levelers...why would I use blocks under wheels? Maybe it is possible that I could see a low spot where a wheel or 2 gets lifted and then I use blocks to regain ground contact. Of course, that would seem to require that I over raise (if I can) the jacks to get blocks under the wheels and then lower the jacks back down to put some weight on the blocks.

It seems that with a longer tag axle MH that it could get a bit crazy if one has to block a drive and tag axle. I suppose the simple answer is for "big rigs" to stick to "resorts" that generally have better leveling?

As a minor side bar to the whole level issue I think I have read that an RV is more stable when the levelers are extended to the minimum needed to make the RV level while at the same time keeping as much weight on the tires as possible. Is that a fairly correct understanding?

Instead of lifting up and place the block under the wheel, why not just drive onto it? That's what I do

[Sky_Boss]

Originally Posted by Deucenut

Instead of lifting up and place the block under the wheel, why not just drive onto it? That's what I do

Well...the last time I did that the block spun out under the coach. Don't know how/why bit it got my attention. I suppose it was a fluke but it got me gun shy on doing that.

[USMCRET]

I don't necessarily call this a best practice, but sometimes a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do.

[Muddypaws]

Any motorhome only has a parking brake on the rear wheels. If the slope is steep enough you can slide on your jacks and damage them. So you have to maintain contact with 'something'. Probably a good idea to chock the wheels in contact with the ground first.

Letting the rear wheels dangle in the air may also damage the rear suspension and drive components if left that way for long. Not a good idea for the front either. Look under there and check out what it's done to your front airbags sometime.

Why don't I drive up on them? Because once I dump the airbags I'm about 4" off the ground. Sometimes I need more than 4" worth of blocks and it's a total PITA to build a ramp, then build another, and another.

Having had a class C without levelers I really really really appreciate not driving up on blocks!

[dvmweb]

I put a piece of 12 by 12 inch wolmanized 2 by under each leveler/jack to keep it from contacting the ground. Keeps the dirt and sand off better with rain.

[Grimesy]

I did not read all of the posts so this blurb may be redundant (like that word) but some parks require blocks under the jacks. Having a jack lift a tire off the ground is not smart, the weight of the coach on a jack can result in a failure so put a block under the lifted tire.

I am wiser because of experience.

Don G.

[SarahW]

When we bring the coach home, the slope in our driveway necessitates blocking the front tires because we are of the "never park with the tires off the ground" camp. Our Powergear levelers manual SPECIFICALLY states that this is not an acceptable practice. We also lift the front with the levelers, slide the 2x12 sections under the tires (and one under the jacks), then let the coach down till the tires are just resting on the blocks and manually finish leveling. We then put chocks in front of the rear wheels.



It is important to note that if you ever use blocks under your rear wheels, you should put the same blocks under BOTH wheels on on the same side of the axle. You don't one one "dually" wheel to be hanging lower on the axle.

[Sky_Boss]

Originally Posted by Grimesy

I did not read all of the posts so this blurb may be redundant (like that word) but some parks require blocks under the jacks. Having a jack lift a tire off the ground is not smart, the weight of the coach on a jack can result in a failure so put a block under the lifted tire.

I am wiser because of experience.

Don G.

I block my jacks all the time. The reason is that even a 12"X12"X2" block is slightly wider than my rear stand and a couple inches wider than my front. My front pads are also slightly rounded.

I plan to go with 12X14 blocks just to spread the weight even further. I also have a spot in my basement that likes the 12X14 better than 12X16 too.

Like another poster I get on my site and let my HWH control panel tell me where my low spots are. I then put 1 block under each jack pad then a second one under the low spots if possible. Some times even the low spot jack is too close to the ground for 2 blocks after I dump the bags so I will air them up just a bit to get the second block under it. If that is needed I dump the air again. After that, if there is room I put a second block under any jack that will let one fit under it.

The reason I put blocks under the high side jacks it to minimize how much Jack is used and keep as much weight on the tires as possible.

I will avoid a spot where the tail is so low that it wants to raise the rear wheels off the ground. I'm just not comfortable lifting or driving both the drive and tag axles onto blocks for under the wheels. I'm not as uncomfortable with doing that for the front axle. I would also not be as uncomfortable, should the need arise, to raise my front end like seen in Sarah's situation and use wheel blocks under the wheels and wheel chocks on the rear wheels.

BTW...I use GOOD wheel chocks, not those light weight ones that will buckle when 40K# wants to move. Don't ask me now I learned that lesson.

[WheelingIt]

Originally Posted by Sky_Boss

For rigs with levelers...why would I use blocks under wheels? Maybe it is possible that I could see a low spot where a wheel or 2 gets lifted and then I use blocks to regain ground contact. Of course, that would seem to require that I over raise (if I can) the jacks to get blocks under the wheels and then lower the jacks back down to put some weight on the blocks.

What the others said. To keep wheels on the ground, and minimize how far the jacks need to extend. We try to chose somewhat level sites, but sometimes we don't have much choice if we want to stay in a particular campground, and the range on our jacks simply isn't sufficient. Our goal is always is to keep all wheels in contact with the ground, and often we need the levellers to do that.

We put down the levellers on the ground first and drive the rig onto them. Then, once parked we put blocks under the jacks before we do final levelling with the system.

[Tomthepilot]

Originally Posted by PyrateSilly

This is what we made and did. We use them for several other things besides leveling.
RV Leveling Blocks Built for Indestructibility
Much cheaper for us to make then buying all the other stuff.

Hi Gascap,
Was thinking blocks cut from Stall Mats seemed like a good idea and Tractor Supply here in the US has them at $40.00. Only downside is a 4' x 6' Stall Mat weighs 100 lbs and I'd want that amount of surface area. I'm already too heavy. Can't find the weight of Tri-Lynx RV Levelers but they've got to be a lot less than that. WallyWorld has the Tri-Lynx RV Levelers @ $31.96 x 4 = $127.84. So... guess I'll go spend the big bucks. But thanks for an otherwise good idea.


Regards,
Tom Terrific & his wonder wife Mighty Melody (who's sitting less than level at the moment)