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Old 03-21-2019, 10:40 AM   #1
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Leveling Itasca Reyo

Hey All,

I am getting ready to set out on my first voyage in my Itasca Reyo 25P. It doesn't have bubble level indicators. I have the stackable wheel blocks for leveling. My plan is to just use a bubble level on the floor and level it that way.

Just curious if there is a better method.


Thanks,

Randy
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Old 03-21-2019, 10:55 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockbottom View Post
Hey All,

I am getting ready to set out on my first voyage in my Itasca Reyo 25P. It doesn't have bubble level indicators. I have the stackable wheel blocks for leveling. My plan is to just use a bubble level on the floor and level it that way.

Just curious if there is a better method.


Thanks,

Randy

Our first coach was a Reyo, and I did, essentially, what you propose except I placed the level on the counter top. I used the small, square level that has the bubble in a circle in the center of the level when things are set correctly.
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Old 03-21-2019, 11:11 AM   #3
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I have auto level and still use a float bubble.
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Old 03-21-2019, 04:12 PM   #4
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I have auto level and still use a float bubble.

Funny, our current coach has auto leveling and I used it for the first time this past week. After the computer "leveled" the coach and all lights were out, the coach felt "off." I got out the float bubble and, sure enough, it was not level. I simply used the manual buttons to bring the bubble into the center.
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Old 03-22-2019, 03:47 AM   #5
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Hey, thanks for taking the time to respond.

For some reason yesterday a couple hours after the post I was reading the manual on the fridge and it said to use a bubble level in the bottom of the fridge.

Since the manual listed the max degrees out of level (3 deg side to side/6 deg front to back) that the fridge can run without damage, I used my protractor level. It now resides in the coach.
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Old 03-22-2019, 05:48 AM   #6
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The 3 degrees and 6 degrees correlate to like 3" off side to side and 8" off front to back, bottomline uncomfortably off level for humans. So a good rule of thumb is, if its comfortable for humans it's comfortable for the Refrigerator. I have a Sprinter Motorhome and I use this Hopkins Graduated level, https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-8525-...s%2C220&sr=8-3. I put the side to side level in the emblem on the front grill and I put the front to back level on top of the exterior outlet cover. You have to find spots you know that are level or were installed level to place the Hopkins so that is why I picked these locations. The graduation marks on the Hopkins turn out to be fairly accurate for a 25' motorhome. I also added Hopkins to the cab of my RV again in known level spots (seat base and above cupholder in center) so I can glance at them if I am just pulling into a parking lot for a short time to ensure I'm parking fairly level. I mostly use the Camco Tri-level ramps (https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Tri-Lev...-2-spons&psc=1) to do all my leveling because the front is typically low. If the Hopkins shows 2" off I drive to the second tier of the ramp, taking the tire about 2" off the ground. I cut the handles off so they will fit straight into my storage compartments. I also screwed these block caps to the bottom of the Tri-levelers so I can snap them to the Camco blocks if I need to go higher than the 3" the Tri-leveler provide.
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Old 03-22-2019, 10:42 PM   #7
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SSTraveler, Very nicely explained and smart idea!

I have the stackable blocks that should serve me where I'm going. However this topic kind of leads me to another thought. What about running the fridge while driving through the mountains for a couple hours?
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Old 03-23-2019, 06:55 AM   #8
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I run my Refrigerator on 12v while I am driving usually for about 6 hours day, mountains or flat. Hasn't been an issue, but I do look to Park it near level if I am going to be more than 15 minutes. Supposedly it doesn't take long to over heat if not reasonably level, I never want to test it. I think driving at different grades and elevations works fine because the liquid chemicals that make an absorption Refrigerator work are always moving around versus being accumulated in the wrong place for a constant period of time when the heater is working, trying to produce the chemical process. So don't be worried when driving. BTW, I added fans in the exterior Refrigerator compartment that run via an electric temp monitor to ensure that the Refrigerator condenser doesn't overheat. I found that my Dometic 8555 cools much better and more consistently if the condenser temp stays between 122-136 degrees. I also fun small fans inside the Refrigerator constantly to move the cool air around, which keeps the temperature constant throughout the Refrigerator interior. I have an obsession to make the Refrigerator cool reliably between 36-40 degrees, not 45+ degrees as it used to before my mods.
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Old 03-24-2019, 04:14 AM   #9
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I think driving at different grades and elevations works fine because the liquid chemicals that make an absorption Refrigerator work are always moving around versus being accumulated in the wrong place for a constant period of time when the heater is working, trying to produce the chemical process.

That is what I thought also, but of the many topics I've read I never saw travelling on unlevel roads covered. So just to be sure, I had to ask since I only have a rudimentary knowledge of the ammonia cooling process in these fridges. Of course, I will make sure to be level when parked for any period of time or shut off the fridge.

Thanks!
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Old 03-24-2019, 06:22 AM   #10
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Funny, our current coach has auto leveling and I used it for the first time this past week. After the computer "leveled" the coach and all lights were out, the coach felt "off." I got out the float bubble and, sure enough, it was not level. I simply used the manual buttons to bring the bubble into the center.
Winnebago is good about providing manuals for your RV and systems. There is a method to calibrate the leveling system which should be explained in the manual. After you get it level to your satisfaction recalibrate. Our main indicator is the bathroom door. Itasca Horizon has solid wood doors so their weight will swing the door if out of level. I fine tune any level by the "door method".
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Old 04-19-2019, 08:33 PM   #11
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Throw this on the floor get as close to the center and call it good. Bern doing it that way for 13 years.
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Old Yesterday, 07:20 AM   #12
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With an app. your smart phone is very accurate buuble\spirit level ..inclinometer.
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Old Yesterday, 07:33 AM   #13
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If you don't mind spending $140, you can get an electronic leveling aide that, once setup, will give you the exact amount of leveling required on each wheel. The LevelMatePro works with your smartphone to give you a read out at each wheel position of how much leveling is required. Fast, simple, and easy to get right in one attempt.

We use the LevelMatePro and the long and short lego type blocks to quickly level our Sprinter based Class C (pretty similar to your Reyo).
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Old Yesterday, 10:24 AM   #14
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There is a FREE app for your phartsmone called TRUMA. One of the tools is a RV level app. You can manually level the coach, or actually set the device on any level surface and set the zero point. You enter your wheelbase and treadwidth and your done. Then when you level your coach, it will show you in inches which wheel needs to be raised.

Leveling is simple with blocks. Park where you want. Check your level, set blocks beside beside the wheels that need to be raised and place a chock at the high wheel to make sure you stop at the right place. Move the coach, stack you blocks, then drive up on the blocks. Your done.
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