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Old 04-29-2013, 07:18 AM   #15
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I have 4 green-treated 2x8x30 boards that have fit all my purposes for over 20 years. They last.
Have seen many crushed plastic ones in the dumpsters over the years.
Parks where I have been that require blocks under the jacks had asphalt parking spaces. Have seen a few leveler pads bent in a U shape from sinking into asphalt.

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Old 04-29-2013, 07:29 AM   #16
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I agree. Even if there is no specific rule you should always use a large pad when parking on asphalt. You also need them on grass sites, particularly on sandy soil like Florida. I made my own from 12" wide pressure treated lumber.

John and Mary Knight
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Old 04-29-2013, 07:46 AM   #17
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I use sections of wood corrugated wood beams that were in a scrap pile from the construction of my daughters house. They are about 2 inches thick and I just cut them in the appropriate size, put some rope handles on them, a little paint, and they work well.
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Old 04-29-2013, 07:53 AM   #18
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Yep, I think it's important to carry something to use under the jacks.

We evolved to carrying a set of the CW interlocking plastic blocks... 4 tough plastic cutting boards... and a set of 2x6 boards cut to about a foot long.

As mentioned, they should be used anytime on asphalt and usually on grass... not to mention their value in minimizing ram travel and dealing with unlevel sites.

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Old 04-29-2013, 10:21 AM   #19
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I always carry wooden pads made from 2x6 and 4 pieces thick. This gives you a good base and prevents the full extension of the rams. If you extend the rams fully and put any pressure forward or back, you stand a better chance of putting a slight bend in the rams. This in turn will make it difficult if not impossible to get the ram back up. Having to replace these are not as cheap as the wood pads
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:24 AM   #20
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We use two pieces of 3/4" plywood glued together. They measure 12"X12" and have a eye hook for easier removal with the awning rod.

In the past we used 2x10 but they eventually split.
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Old 04-29-2013, 11:33 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Cbones View Post
I don't own them, but here is the link Campers Friend - Quality products for the camping and RV enthusiast, Marion NC

I use a much larger and heavier product that was a couple of hundred dollars when I bought them. GRAINGER APPROVED VENDOR OUTRIGGER PAD 18X18 - Mats - 3MHD8|3MHD8 - Grainger Industrial Supply

But I wish I would have bought the utility blocks. They seem to be made for RVs, a lot cheaper and lighter. I think they will do the job.
Thanks for the links. I used the cheap plastic ones and they worked fine but now, since I left them somewhere, they are working for someone else. Next time to CW I may pick up some more. Always nice to see other options.

Originally Posted by Bug512 View Post
We use two pieces of 3/4" plywood glued together. They measure 12"X12" and have a eye hook for easier removal with the awning rod.

In the past we used 2x10 but they eventually split.
Typical suggestions are the 3/4"x 12' x 12" pads. Plywood is laminated and does not split as easily. You can also use 5/8', or 3/4" as a sheet on top of the 2 x 10's. It gives them a little more height. The plywood will not keep the boards from cracking but will hold everything together so it dose not have to be replaced frequently.

Happy trails.
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Old 04-29-2013, 11:42 AM   #22
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2x6 and 4x4 treated . They were free and tough,just when you think you have enough you dont. Used them for step extentions too. Helped to have some extra for my brother in law,we all work together. NEXT DARLINGTON
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Old 04-29-2013, 09:31 PM   #23
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I use 2x12x12 pressure treated lumber provided by my carpenter son-in-law. They work great. Some do break once in a while but I just toss it in the dumpster. I carry 6 or 8 most of the time. If you use the same, do not burn in your campfire. They can be somewhat toxic and would not be good for roasting hot dogs or marshmellows. I hadn't thought of the hole for the awning rod, but I will take care of that tomorrow morning, thank you for the tip.
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Old 04-29-2013, 09:53 PM   #24
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I made mine using 2x12 x12 pressure treated lumber. I then screwed "plastic" cutting board to each side so they can't break. They end up about 2 1/2" high.
Wayne & Roberta and Maggie the Miracle Dog
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Old 04-30-2013, 06:34 AM   #25
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More pad options.
DICA Outrigger Pads, RV Jack Pads, AlturnaMATS, Wheel Chocks
They also have rubber diamond plate sheets that can be used for traction under the rear wheels if you sink in.
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Old 04-30-2013, 06:36 AM   #26
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Whoever designed the jack pads on our HWH equipped coach decided to make them with a rounded profile (like an upside down mushroom), thus making them perfect for pushing into any surface other than concrete. A wonderfully thought out plan! NOT!!! We're pretty much forced to use something flat between these pads and any surface we happen to be parked over.

I found the treated 2x10x18" boards I was using were splitting on me constantly. I've since backed them with 3/4" plywood, making them heavier to handle, but since have had very good results regarding longevity. Each has an 18" piece of rope attached to make retrieval easy. FWIW, -Al
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Old 04-30-2013, 06:56 AM   #27
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I like the plywood or boards sandwiched between a plastic cutting board idea. Lexan might work good too.
I have been using 2x6s but last summer after a night of rain I awoke the next morning to find we were no longer level. We split two 2x6 boards and pushed them about a foot into the thick clay ground. So need to criss cross the wood grain like plywood.
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Old 05-01-2013, 06:03 AM   #28
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Thanks again for the ideas. I came across some cut off pieces of laminated plywood joist that I think I'll polyurethane to preserve and are about 18" x 20"and light enough for DW to carry (a main feature).

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