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Old 10-09-2012, 09:55 AM   #1
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leveling on a slope

Just thought I would run this past the group.

We are on a very sloped site to the point that the front tires are off the ground.

I placed some hydraulic jacks under each side of the front suspension so that the wheels where not hanging but rather supported a little bit.

Thoughts?
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Old 10-09-2012, 10:23 AM   #2
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Not Good! Some form of "run up" pads should be used under the tires to support the front end, and then the levers deployed. I carry 12 inch long 2X10's covered with thin plywood (to prevent cracking of the 2X10's).

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Old 10-09-2012, 10:40 AM   #3
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The info provided by the maker of my coach says having the front wheels off occasionally is ok but never the back ones. THe jacks on my coach have about an 18" lift. If the coach is not level by the time any of them has traveled the 18" it will not level. The only way to get it to go up further than the 18" is to raise the level of the coach side that is the culprit in some way. I believe you also need to raise the level of the jack pad as well or all you will accomplish is the jack reaching the ground before the full length of travel is achieved. I have 4-18" square pads that I made by screwing and glueing 3/4" treated plywood together making a 3" thick pad. I also have a dozen or so 2x8" x12" blocks that I cut from a 2x8 stored in a plastic bin in my basement that I stack to the height required by the slope it is on. I will drive the offending wheel, or wheels on the stacked blocks and use the plywood under the corresponding jacks and relevel!
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Old 10-09-2012, 10:49 AM   #4
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Looks like I am off to home depot for some lumber.
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Old 10-09-2012, 11:00 AM   #5
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2 x 10's long enough to support the entire footprint of the tire.
I have 4 each of 12" and 16", the 16 inch one is the bottom one that allows the 4 inch extension past the 12" one to be use as a slight ramp. I also carry 2 bags of the orange squares to facilitate the ramp-up. I never support the tire on the hex orange square as they do not support the footprint of the tire. The yellow sold square hex may support the footprint - but I don't have any.

The 2 x 10 with a 1/2 or 5/8" plywood on top will give you approximately 3" of height. The 2 x 10 is not exactly 2" high, and the plywood also misses the descriptive height by a little bit.
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Old 10-09-2012, 11:19 PM   #6
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My thoughts are that if you can't get level in the sight, then you should move. There is no reason to raise the wheel off the ground. It is dangerous to do so even if it is the front wheels only. You pay good money, why fool around with a site where you can't get level?
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Old 10-09-2012, 11:57 PM   #7
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On ours:
Newmar says it's OK to suspend the front tires in mid air.
Spartan says the same.
Reyco-Granning says the same
So we do when necessary, sometimes for 6 months at a time.

Your manufacturer may say something different!
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Old 10-11-2012, 06:45 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake21 View Post
Looks like I am off to home depot for some lumber.
Good plan.
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Old 10-11-2012, 08:29 PM   #9
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I also don't like having any wheel in the air. I know having a front tire off the ground isn't a critical issue. I just like that the motorhome doesn't shake as much when we're inside if we've got 4 wheel contact, make that 6 since there's duals on the back.

We purchased some of these stackable plastic blocks from Walmart. They can be purchased from a lot of other sources as well. They're compact for easy storage and pretty light considering how sturdy they are.

I really like them, because of the way you can stack them and lock them into each other. A stack like shown in the picture gives you around 3.5" of lift & configured like shown they're very easy to roll up onto. If you need a little more lift but don't have enough blocks to build a bigger base and perfect pyramid, you can add a single block to the top. Still easy to get on top of, just a little extra umph towards getting completely centered on top.

I'll use these to get as close to level as I can on an uneven surface. The jack system finishes the job off without a wheel one in the air.

The jack pads we used under the jacks are another story. I made those out of simple doug fir 2x4's with a criss cross pattern. They flex enough for slightly uneven surfaces and give a larger firm base for the occasional camping trip that we're not on a paved pad.

Hope you find this information helpful.
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Old 10-11-2012, 09:19 PM   #10
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My thoughts (in order of preference)
1. Move to a site that is level
2. Boards under tires & front jacks until level & chok the back wheels

That said, we never perfectly level. I prefer the back end slightly lower than the front so any rain & A/C run off of the roof goes off the back gutter rather than the front gutter. The front gutter, even with the spouts, dribbles on the driver's/passenger's windows making them a mess & spotting up my rims. I'm level enough for the fridge to operate correctly, but back end low enough for roof water to run off the back.

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Old 10-11-2012, 09:25 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NLOVNIT View Post
My thoughts (in order of preference)
1. Move to a site that is level
2. Boards under tires & front jacks until level & chok the back wheels

That said, we never perfectly level. I prefer the back end slightly lower than the front so any rain & A/C run off of the roof goes off the back gutter rather than the front gutter. The front gutter, even with the spouts, dribbles on the driver's/passenger's windows making them a mess & spotting up my rims. I'm level enough for the fridge to operate correctly, but back end low enough for roof water to run off the back.

Lori-
I really like this idea. Our AC's are basement, so that's not so much an issue, but just the thought of the roof run off going towards the back instead of the front and keeping the windshields clean is a darn good idea! Damn I love this forum!
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Old 10-14-2012, 10:07 AM   #12
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Just keep rear wheels on ground and everything will be fine ,just be careful to keep from racking or twisting the chassis while leveling. Putting anything under tires is just putting something under the tires , either the chassis is lifted by the jacks or suspension.
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Old 10-14-2012, 10:24 AM   #13
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At the Winnebago GNR (Grand National Rally) campground, leveling can be a challenge. When you got to your designated spot and it was really a challenge to level the coach, a group of young volunteers could be requested to help with the leveling. In some cases they would dig down so the wheels on the high side could be lowered. They also supplied some wood to help with the leveling. I have some 4"X4" blocks I have used and I agree with a previous poster about NEVER getting the back wheels off the ground. This winter I will be buying some 2"X6" pressure treated lumber and cutting it up to make some pads for leveling. I will end up with a 3" thick 12"X12" pad and will put a door grab handle on it to make it easier to retrieve it.
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Old 10-14-2012, 11:27 AM   #14
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On the boards I use under the jacks I drilled 3/8's inch holes near the corners. I use the awning hook to place the blocks under the jacks and also to pull them out from under the RV. I use 2X12's for under the jacks and longer 2X12's for under the wheels. They are covered on both sides with 1/2 inch plywood to help prevent the 2X12's from splitting.
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