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Old 05-11-2015, 07:25 PM   #1
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Leveling without jacks

So the class A gulfstream I bought does not have any built in method to level the coach. There were some 2x and 1x's in a storage compartment. Previous owners took it to a CG for the summer season and parked it. I am a complete newbie to camping, over 30 years ago I spent the weekend with a neighbor in there TT that stayed in Ocean city.

I have a 2000 Gulfstream Conquest 31'. Do I load up on Lynx levelers, cut stall mats, use 2x's and or plywood. Also what is the best practice for leveling? Was thinking I have a smaller laser level that I could set on a board and the calculate the difference for each wheel and add lift accordingly.


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Old 05-11-2015, 09:32 PM   #2
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Some 2x8's with one end cut at a 45 degree angle works well. Some 24 and some 12 inches long so you can stack them up if you need to go more than one high. I just throw a 6 inch level up on the counter in the kitchen and use that.
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Old 05-11-2015, 09:36 PM   #3
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Personally......I'd be real worried if that motor home hadn't been driven much. Leveling it would be the least of my worries.

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Old 05-12-2015, 07:13 AM   #4
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How level is acceptable to you?

If you have an absorption frig (runs on LP or electric), it needs to be reasonably level. I think they say "Comfortable for you walking". Other than that, Whatever is acceptable to you.

If you fell like your climbing a mountain when you walk from the front to the back of your MH, That's probably not acceptable for the frig.

I carry 8 pieces of 2x8 that are 18-24 inches long. I've used them for just about everything except under the tires for leveling.

I also have a pack of the Lego style blocks. I used them once about 5 years ago when I just couldn't get the class c reasonably level.

I have the self adhesive levels on the wall and on the instrument panel that I can see from the drivers seat. I use these when parking to skoot back and forth and get the coach reasonable level. I try and get the levels centered on "0" if I'm spending a few days, but "1" or "2" is OK if I'm spending the night.
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Old 05-12-2015, 08:31 AM   #5
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I have leveler jacks but still keep wood on board for really bad sites that would cause my front tires to be off the ground. I have 6 30" 12x2s and approx 9 12" 12x2"

I stack thm as needed in a stepped arrangement and back the mh up on them. A similar application could work for you.

If possible, get pressure treated lumber. Home Depot and Lowes will cut down long pieces for you. I used 16' lengths.
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Old 05-12-2015, 09:06 AM   #6
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If possible park so the back is higher then the front, easier to drive up on blocks that way. When I had a Class C without jacks we used a combination of blocks in various sizes.

I took 2" X 12" boards and cut to length, 1 board ~18" and the other ~12". I then glued them using Gorilla glue or equivalent. I found a piece of heavy nylon strapping, cut about a ~2' piece, looped the strapping to form a handle and put between the 2 boards while assembling and used 4 screws to hold them together while the glue cured. The straps make the blocks easier to carry. (I still have some of these blocks that I still use with my Class A under the jacks).

I usually carried 3 of the above, and a couple 2"X12"X16" and a couple 4" X 4" ~16" long.

Using a combination of these I could get the coach level, again trying to put blocks under the front tires.

If you have to put blocks under the back dually wheels it is recommended that you put a block (or blocks) so that each tire is fully supported, if you try to use 1 block it may damage the internal structure of the tire.
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Old 05-12-2015, 09:21 AM   #7
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I also support both rear tires, but I do wonder, if there would actually be damage, when supporting it by one.

Many times, I see buses and trucks driving one tire, over curbs, during turns and they seem to survive. That and in NYC area, the potholes can leave one tire in the air.

I can understand having both tires on the ground, while bumping down the highway, but a static load is much less.

Just thinking
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Old 05-12-2015, 04:27 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waiter21 View Post
If you have an absorption frig (runs on LP or electric), it needs to be reasonably level. I think they say "Comfortable for you walking".
True. RV fridge manufacturers typically say within 3 degrees side to side and 6 degrees front to back. But that's from the point of view of the fridge. Since the fridge is usually mounted on a side wall, that means the coach needs to be within 3 degrees front to back, and 6 degrees side to side. That's actually quite a bit, more than a lot of people realize.

For the OP's 31.5' coach, that means the front bumper needs to be within 19" of level compared to the rear bumper, and the sides need to be within 10" of each other. When you think about it, those would be significantly non-level, and only a salty old sea captain used to rough seas would really be comfortable with that.

It kills me when people say they put their bubble level on the floor of the fridge and adjust the rig's level until the bubble is exactly centered -- it just isn't that critical. Get the rig comfortable and the fridge will be fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by twinboat View Post
I also support both rear tires, but I do wonder, if there would actually be damage, when supporting it by one.
It seems all of the tire manufacturers make the recommendation about fully supporting both tires. The difference that I see between hitting a curb or pothole and leveling with only one tire supported is time: while driving it's a transient event, and while leveling it could be long term. It may be an issue of problems developing over time.
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Old 05-13-2015, 01:05 AM   #9
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I often camp in the desert. Even though my coach has jacks, Sometimes the area is so off level, that the jacks will indicate too much angle and refuse to operate. I always bring a round shovel with me. Sometimes just digging a hole a couple of inches deep, the driving the wheel(s) into the hole makes a world of difference!
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Old 05-13-2015, 12:40 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unknown Guy View Post
So the class A gulfstream I bought does not have any built in method to level the coach. There were some 2x and 1x's in a storage compartment. Previous owners took it to a CG for the summer season and parked it. I am a complete newbie to camping, over 30 years ago I spent the weekend with a neighbor in there TT that stayed in Ocean city.

I have a 2000 Gulfstream Conquest 31'. Do I load up on Lynx levelers, cut stall mats, use 2x's and or plywood. Also what is the best practice for leveling? Was thinking I have a smaller laser level that I could set on a board and the calculate the difference for each wheel and add lift accordingly.


2000 Gulf Stream Conquest, first MH (bought 8/14)
Sent from my iPad using iRV2 - RV Forum
Unknown Guy,
First off, welcome back to the world of RVing and, camping. Hope you have a ton of fun in years to come. As for leveling your new coach, we don't need to get real technical here. All you're doing is leveling, not building a skyscraper. As has been stated, many folks, including myself, carry small lumber yards in compartments, to augment leveling.

One of the things that will dictate just how much and, what size of blocks/ramps you carry is, the size of the intended compartment they will be stored in and, the size of each of the blocks/ramps. Not many folks (guys) will want to dedicate very much room for lumber. But, depending your potentially un-level campsites, in various campgrounds all over where you intend to travel, it's nice to have a variety to help in various situations.

Having some "beveled" ones for driving up on is a really nice approach. (no pun intended). Those LEGGO ones sold at Camping World and other RV supplies outlets are ok but, in many situations, can be weak and unstable. My approach or, evaluation of an un-level campsite is such that, if I need the blocks/ramps, I back or, pull into the site, and decide what I need. There are times when, in a dirt site, I will dig out a bit on the high or end where it's high and, place the blocks/ramps at the opposite end/side. That way, when pulling/driving onto the blocks/ramps, the opposite end/side drops into the slight holes, at the exact same time.

That way, you get twice the leveling movement,(height increase) with only 1/2 the amount of leveling blocks/ramps. And, you can't always put the rig into a site by having a specific end low or high. It depends on hookups, cord lengths, door positioning and more.

Basically, you learn to adapt, to any and all campsites/predicaments. You use what you have on hand. People will make comments about: "Well, I'd just move to another spot"! Yeah sure you will, especially if it's summer, a very popular campground/area, a few zillion retirees/ and more. So, anyway, hope some of this info has helped.
Scott

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