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Old 01-16-2013, 06:59 PM   #1
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Light Grease Streaks After Tire Change

Dealer had 8 new tires installed on our 43' Dutch Star with Tag. The Left Tag and Right Drive wheels have some relatively minor streaking that is spoking out from the lug nuts and just a tinge of streak from the front right steerer. I pulled the lug caps off and the insides of the caps didn't have any pooling of any kind. Would this be considered normal after wheel changes?
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:13 PM   #2
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It is just lubricant coming off the studs. Wipe it off a few times and it will be all gone. It is normal with truck tires/wheels.
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:16 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by charlie 62 View Post
It is just lubricant coming off the studs. Wipe it off a few times and it will be all gone. It is normal with truck tires/wheels.
Thanks, I tend to think that.

I forgot to ask in the first message about getting the lugs re-torqued. Anyone with thoughts on that?
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Old 01-16-2013, 08:00 PM   #4
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It is just lubricant coming off the studs. Wipe it off a few times and it will be all gone. It is normal with truck tires/wheels.
I agree. Clean it off several times. If it comes back after periodic cleaning, it may be a seal leak (but I doubt it). Lotsa techs will put some sort of lubricant on the lugs to get them off.

Yes, have your lug nuts re-torqued. Good insurance.

I know of an incident where an owner of a MH had a tire changed by a mobile tire tech. The lug nuts came loose, and he had a failure along the road. Make a long story short, the mobile tire company paid for a new wheel, brake service, and roadside service.

Most tire shops these days require customers to sign waivers stating to tighten their lug nuts after 50 miles of a tire service. Insurance for them and for the customer.
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Old 01-17-2013, 07:14 PM   #5
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lug nuts

All posts my be correct. If you are using a OTR large truck chassis then the lug nuts are supposed to be clean and dry when torqued on. If they are lubed when they are put on, the factory torque will be over specs. Most likely will not cause a problem unless you have something other than steel wheels. Most RV's do not use steel wheels other than the inside dual on the rear. If a nut is lose it will streak rust when the lube is washed away. Until then it will streak the lube. If it does not stop streaking or starts to streak rust after run in the rain have them re-torqued. If they are over tightened they or the washer under them can and will damage the wheel.
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Old 01-17-2013, 07:50 PM   #6
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All posts my be correct. If you are using a OTR large truck chassis then the lug nuts are supposed to be clean and dry when torqued on. If they are lubed when they are put on, the factory torque will be over specs. Most likely will not cause a problem unless you have something other than steel wheels. Most RV's do not use steel wheels other than the inside dual on the rear. If a nut is lose it will streak rust when the lube is washed away. Until then it will streak the lube. If it does not stop streaking or starts to streak rust after run in the rain have them re-torqued. If they are over tightened they or the washer under them can and will damage the wheel.
Let me try to interpret what you said.

I have a Spartan Mount Master Chassis, GVWR 44,200# with coated aluminum wheels. I would think this probably fits into the general description of large OTR truck. Maybe?

Assuming that is correct, they would have come from the factory, not lubed and torqued to specs. If the tire dealer lubed them but used factory torque specs then they would be exceeding specs. (I think I recall reading that there is a difference when torquing lubed vs non-lubed lugs) So, since I have aluminum rims it is possible that the lugs might be "too tight".

The leaking/streaking lube then rust all made perfect sense.
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Old 01-18-2013, 01:44 AM   #7
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I can't believe the tire fitter would use lube on the nuts. - they never do. Lube would as stated above over torque and break the stud.
It's not normally required to re torque alloys only spiders and you don't have them
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Old 01-18-2013, 07:58 AM   #8
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I can't believe the tire fitter would use lube on the nuts. - they never do. Lube would as stated above over torque and break the stud.
It's not normally required to re torque alloys only spiders and you don't have them
Besides being an ugly creature my wife hates...what is a spider?

What is the best resource to find the torque values for my coach? Would that be the wheel manufacturer or chassis?
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:30 AM   #9
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Besides being an ugly creature my wife hates...what is a spider?

What is the best resource to find the torque values for my coach? Would that be the wheel manufacturer or chassis?
I run a DP in a Freightliner frame listed as a XC chassis. It fits in a OTR truck. The torque values are supplied by Freightliner (here is where I might be in trouble) if memory serves 450 ft lbs. Not something you check like the car tire shop does with a single arm torque wrench. I do not think it is likely that lube will lead to twisting off a lug bolt, but I suppose it could. More likely that a air impact wrench was used and the nut is clamped down tight enough to deform our fancy wheels. Or if the air compressor was under pressure the nuts are not tight enough.

Here is what I do, I carry a torque wrench I think it is 200 ft lbs, a torque multiplier (4 to 1), If your big enough you can apply 800 ft lbs, assorted extensions and socket (1 inch drive). As soon as the tire shop is through I go and find a empty parking lot and get out the tools, back off each nut and retorque them. Takes about a 1/2 hour.

I also do my own brake service, axle seals if they are ever needed, so forth. So, having these tools is necessary.

I have never figured out how the truck tire shop knows they have the torque correct. If the air compressor runs within close pressures, if the feed hose is always the same, if the wrench is set correctly, and if all of this is checked every week or so in a torque fixture. I would bet the shop has the torque correct. Or close enough to be OK. There is some question about the nut washer taking a set then dragging on the wheel when they are removed so it may take more torque to remove the nuts than putting them on. So, it may be impossible to check the setting while retorquing the nuts.

Spend enough time on a rain soaked road in the winter with de-icer on it and you will also be putting lube on the bolts and nuts. But after the lug bolts and nuts are cleaned up they should be washed and blown dry before being reassembled. Not covered with oil.

Spider? I am betting he is talking about a California wheel. The hub is shaped like a spider and the wheel is basically a round ring. Not much used any more. If you are following a truck with a tire that looks like it is on a bent axle it is most likely this type of wheel. I had one once, you could spend hours trying to get tires to run straight. All it took to screw one up was over torque the wheel once and the clamps and wheel would bend. Mine was used and I never could get the rear wheels to run straight. It was a horse hauler and spent most of its time in the mountains at under 30 mph so not much of a problem.
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:41 AM   #10
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Thanks Glenn,

The streaks I have are relatively "thin" and when I pull the caps off I don't see any excess stuff in them.

Something I noticed was it looks like there was something that looked like a washer. It looked like the lug nut was sitting on this washer/ring instead of directly on the wheel. Does that make sense? I plan to pull the MH out of storage tomorrow to do so house cleaning/set up and then drive it for a bit before taking oil, tranny and coolant samples for analysis. I think I will pull a couple caps off and take a picture of what I am talking about.

Thanks again!
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Old 01-19-2013, 12:50 AM   #11
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Thanks Glenn,

The streaks I have are relatively "thin" and when I pull the caps off I don't see any excess stuff in them.

Something I noticed was it looks like there was something that looked like a washer. It looked like the lug nut was sitting on this washer/ring instead of directly on the wheel. Does that make sense? I plan to pull the MH out of storage tomorrow to do so house cleaning/set up and then drive it for a bit before taking oil, tranny and coolant samples for analysis. I think I will pull a couple caps off and take a picture of what I am talking about.

Thanks again!
I would bet at this point that you are dealing with a little WD40. A little car wash, pull the caps and wash the lugs, it should go way.
Hub lube from a leaking seal will throw into the drums. From there run down the inside of the tire. Generally lube up the brakes just fine but sort of screw up the friction between the shoes and drum. Can not remember ever seeing it run out around the lug nuts.
Washers under the nuts is normal. There are two systems one is a little different it uses a nut/lug bolt to fasten the inside wheel and a nut that fits the nut/lug bolt to hold the outside wheel. You will see this system on heavy OTR trucks. Then there is the OTR truck system most large MH use. Single lug bolt with a washer/nut holding both wheels on. These are used on local delivery trucks. Those big trucks that are not semi's. Those washers are part of the nuts.
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Old 01-20-2013, 09:38 PM   #12
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I'm bet it is a little wd40 or pb blaster. If you have the lug nuts with the washer it is recommended to lube the washer and nut. when they go to torque them and the washer lug nut joint are dry or in a bind they will actually torque the nut to washer not washer to the wheel. A little lube on the stud is not a big deal. just don't ever put anti-seize on a stud. It will never torque to spec and probably stretch the stud and cause failure. As stated above i would always check torque after driving for about 50 miles. That allows the rims to seat on the hub which i would say 99 percent are when they leave the shop. I'm a tire shop manger and ASE & TIA certified.

Happy trails!
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