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Old 08-06-2012, 09:06 AM   #1
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Load Levelers Go Down All By Themselves

I have a 2008 Four Winds Magellan (Class A Gas) with an Equalizer Systems load leveler system. Two weeks ago the left front leveler went down (extracted) ALL the way. It was not plugged in to power and the coach batteries were turned off. I turned on the generator for power and did a FULL retract/extract several times and everything seemed fine. A week later it did the same thing (but not a full extract - only a partial). It is now sitting in storage with the left front load leveler down. I couldn't go anywhere if I wanted to!

Now all the lights on the Equalizer keypad are on and NOTHING will work. Levelers will not go up or down.

Ideas anyone?

Thanks
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Old 08-06-2012, 11:22 AM   #2
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Only way I can see this happening is if the control box is going bad. You might try to remove all power from the control and see if that resets it.
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Old 08-07-2012, 06:45 AM   #3
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Only way I can see this happening is if the control box is going bad. You might try to remove all power from the control and see if that resets it.
Thanks Jim I'll try that and let you know if it works. Dan
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Old 08-07-2012, 09:53 AM   #4
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You can manually override, and retract the jack. Troubleshooting the system is on page 11.

Four%20Winds Equalizer Jacks.pdf
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Old 08-08-2012, 06:54 AM   #5
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You can manually override, and retract the jack. Troubleshooting the system is on page 11.

Attachment 24504
Thanks for your help. Really impressed with the willingness to share. It will probably be the weekend before I can try any of these "hints".
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Old 08-08-2012, 11:49 AM   #6
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Do all level systems have over rides. I just bought my first rv 2000 40 ft mtn aire no issuses just curious for the future !!!
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Old 08-08-2012, 01:55 PM   #7
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None of them have overrides to my knowledge. But they all have a main hydraulic solenoid that can be hot wired to return the fluid to the tank which allows the springs to retract the jacks. And, of course, the return pipe nut can be loosened, with the result of high pressure oil spurting out so it needs to be covered and a catch pan below. And it drops the coach so you don't want to be under there.
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Old 08-13-2012, 01:33 PM   #8
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Only way I can see this happening is if the control box is going bad. You might try to remove all power from the control and see if that resets it.
Jim, I am assuming that I could remove all power by disconnecting the coach engine battery (that is the only power remaining after switching off the deep cycle batteries)? If that would work, how does it affect other things in the coach? Would I have to reset things like smoke and propane alarms, etc. I am concerned that disconnecting the battery could cause other issues. If that were the case, I was considering putting a small power toggle switch on the power line going to the controller. Your thoughts? And thanks . . . . . . I read parts of your blog. You're a very interesting guy.
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Old 08-13-2012, 03:58 PM   #9
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Well, if you have ready access to the power jacks control box, you could just disconnect the cables to it...or remove it's main fuse. Only thing you'd have to reset if you just disconnected the batteries are the clock and pre-set stations in the dash radio. All other devices will behave normally. If you have a computer controlled tranni, disconnecting the battery will reset it, but again, it's designed to relearn your shift patterns and adjust to you in short order.

I have a power switch on my jack controller...but that's because I'm to lazy to check the oil level. Once in a while it keeps beeping...when the jacks don't retract all the way...so I use the switch to just turn it off. After a few miles of driving, the beeping would stop anyway as the jacks retract all the way up, but I like to be able to turn off that annoying beeping.

In your case, you have something going on that in my experience here on the forum is unusual. (I think when you say 'extract' you mean 'extend').

My thinking was that since your system is fairly new ('08), it may have a microprocessor based control system. And as long as you haven't gotten any water leaks onto that control box, then I think it's gone nuts. One way to unscramble it's brains is to completely remove power from it. Looking at the picture of the system here: Motorhome RV Auto Leveling System, it appears there is only one connector. You could unplug it there. Leave it sit for an hour and try it again. I can't think of anything beyond the controller that would cause it to extend a jack...you'd have to have a strange intermittent short to battery somehow...quite unusual but not impossible.

Oh, and thx for visiting my blog. And I work at being interesting. It's hard.
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Old 08-21-2012, 12:57 PM   #10
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Well, if you have ready access to the power jacks control box, you could just disconnect the cables to it...or remove it's main fuse. Only thing you'd have to reset if you just disconnected the batteries are the clock and pre-set stations in the dash radio. All other devices will behave normally. If you have a computer controlled tranni, disconnecting the battery will reset it, but again, it's designed to relearn your shift patterns and adjust to you in short order.

I have a power switch on my jack controller...but that's because I'm to lazy to check the oil level. Once in a while it keeps beeping...when the jacks don't retract all the way...so I use the switch to just turn it off. After a few miles of driving, the beeping would stop anyway as the jacks retract all the way up, but I like to be able to turn off that annoying beeping.

In your case, you have something going on that in my experience here on the forum is unusual. (I think when you say 'extract' you mean 'extend').

My thinking was that since your system is fairly new ('08), it may have a microprocessor based control system. And as long as you haven't gotten any water leaks onto that control box, then I think it's gone nuts. One way to unscramble it's brains is to completely remove power from it. Looking at the picture of the system here: Motorhome RV Auto Leveling System, it appears there is only one connector. You could unplug it there. Leave it sit for an hour and try it again. I can't think of anything beyond the controller that would cause it to extend a jack...you'd have to have a strange intermittent short to battery somehow...quite unusual but not impossible.

Oh, and thx for visiting my blog. And I work at being interesting. It's hard.
Hey Jim -

Sorry to keep bugging you about this Jim, but so far you're my best resource on this issue. Today I did the deed. I went over to the coach in storage and I disconnected the negative cable on the battery. I then went in the coach and low and behold, all the red lights on the Equalizer panel were STILL on! I said holy crap, how is that even possible? It is not getting ANY power at all! They were making a funny low level chirping kind of noise so I thought maybe they were in a "discharging" sort of state. So I left and came back a couple of hours later to see if the red lights were still on and they were.

So do you have any words of wisdom or "insight" that you could give me over this new development? To me it's just crazy!

Sending out lots of gratitude for hanging with me on this.

Best Regards,

Dan

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Old 08-22-2012, 11:54 AM   #11
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Not any problem at all, Dan, I enjoy trying to help.

You say you "disconnected the negative cable on the battery" but there are two sets of batteries in a Class A. So all that happened was that you disconnected the wrong set. Letting it discharge the set it's running from isn't recommended.

Sounds like you disconnected the house batteries. You want to also disconnect the starting battery. Or visa versa since the house manufacturer could have put that system on either set. Oh, and one other thing...the RV must be unplugged from shore power and the genset should not be running.
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Old 08-23-2012, 12:39 PM   #12
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Not any problem at all, Dan, I enjoy trying to help.

You say you "disconnected the negative cable on the battery" but there are two sets of batteries in a Class A. So all that happened was that you disconnected the wrong set. Letting it discharge the set it's running from isn't recommended.

Sounds like you disconnected the house batteries. You want to also disconnect the starting battery. Or visa versa since the house manufacturer could have put that system on either set. Oh, and one other thing...the RV must be unplugged from shore power and the genset should not be running.
The coach batteries were always disconnected by virtue of the two disconnect switches located by the entry door. The battery I disconnected was the engine battery (had to open the "hood" to get at it). I checked, and virtually EVERYTHING was disconnected (radio, etc) except the damn red LED's on the Equalizer controller.

Coincidentally, I was onsite at a client location yesterday that is an automotive repair facility. I explained the situation to him and his response was that it sounds similar to what happens to an ECM (Electronic Control Module) in a car. He said they have battery backups and they I should look for a 9V battery and disconnect it.

I you have anything to add to this equation it would be appreciated. Good thing I have no plans to hit the road anytime soon Thanks again for all your help!

Dan
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Old 08-24-2012, 01:21 AM   #13
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The manufacturer of the house decides where the various circuits connect...MANY circuits are wired BEFORE the switches above the door. I found just today that my ceiling fan still runs when they are both set to Off. As do the steps, the CO and Propane detectors, and on and on.

So, at least try disconnecting the ground to the house batteries. Won't hurt anything. I really doubt that a jack system needs a backup battery. Especially a short lifetime type like a 9v.

But if the manual for the system shows it, then sure, look for a 9V battery.
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Old 08-24-2012, 06:48 AM   #14
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Check your Battery control Center "BCC" . It is a black box under the hood. It has your disconnect relays and many of your coach fuses in it. It is labeled FW-XXX "RV Customs products". Under the lid is a diagram that shows and labels the fuses.

On mine F-4 (5 Amp) is a fuse labeled "Jacks down"
and F-13 (5 Amp) is a fuse labeled "Jacks Power"

The "jacks down" fuse is most likely just to power the circuit that determines if the light should come on, and the "jacks power" fuse most likely powers just the control panel. There is an in-line fuse near the pump to fuse the high current power to pump.

If you have one jack that is going down on its own, it could just be a bad cartridge valve that is bleeding by.

Remember when you are trying to operate the system, there are interlocks in place such as, Ignition switch off, and parking brake set.

Also the jacks get power from the coach batteries not the chassis battery unless you use the AUX switch to tie the batteries together.
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