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Old 07-28-2016, 12:08 PM   #15
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Locked out

I keep a long putty knife where I can get to it from outside,use like slim Jim between frames slide up or down to push lock open.
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Old 07-28-2016, 07:46 PM   #16
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So have you taken the lock apart, what caused the original problem?
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Old 07-28-2016, 08:20 PM   #17
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So have you taken the lock apart, what caused the original problem?
My son is going to come over and help me Tomorrow. Younger eyes. I'll post what we find.
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Old 07-28-2016, 08:39 PM   #18
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I'm in. I used the method of drilling a hole.
I drilled a 1/8 hole about 2 inches below lock latch at a angle as In other post.
Used a small stiff wire and opened latch. Skinny neighbor crawled thru and opened. I'll just patch hole with black sealant. It will be there if ever needed again. Now to call Winnebago for warranty replacement.


What about putting a rubber plug/cap from auto parts store in case of future entry problem?
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Old 07-28-2016, 09:02 PM   #19
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I bought a small tube black siclone and plugged it up. Showed wife..she couldn't find where I drilled. Easy to push wire thru if ever need again.
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Old 07-28-2016, 09:28 PM   #20
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We have a 2008 Damon Challenger. It has Tri Mark door latch and lock combo. The original one broke and the only way I could open the door was to remove the trim inside the door by lock. I then bent a thick wire/rod 90 degrees and pushed the bolt in the striker plate back. I found the bolt had broke. I went and bought a new Tri Mark T 507 and installed it. About 1 year later the same thing happened again. I took the trim off the inside door frame again and used the same bent thick wire/rod and again popped it open. The same thing happened the bolt broke cheep pot metal. I went and bought a 2nd one and installed it. I found that when I closed the door the bolt that goes into the striker plate to hold the door closed was not supported in the door frame when you closed the door and the pressure of the spring pushing the bolt all the way out with so much force it breaks the bolt. I took a long wood screw and screwed it in to the door jam so when the bolt catches the striker plate latch it can't go any farther into the striker plate hole. that way the bolt never gets slammed all the way out by the internal spring. Its been a year so Ill see if that was the problem. I contacted Tri Mark and got no response. My concern is if you had to get out of the MH quickly or you get out to add fuel and can't get it or out.
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Old 07-28-2016, 09:29 PM   #21
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The OEM TriMark electronic latches are known for this problem. One of the first tips I ever received from an RV technician was to always leave a window unlocked for emergency entry.
He said he has been locked out several times, right there in the repair shop.
The solenoid inside the door usually fails in the locked position. I had to disconnect the solenoid and lock the door with the dead-bolt until the entire TriMark system was replaced, my OEM system was obsolete_no parts available.
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Old 07-29-2016, 12:30 AM   #22
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One of the first tips I ever received from an RV technician was to always leave a window unlocked for emergency entry.
Dittos. I alway leave my drivers side window unlocked just for that reason.
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