Community Forums

tim fm ct · 08-11-2015, 12:56 PM

I posted asking about protecting brakes and rotors etc during long term parking. I'm not sure where it's posted though.

I'm told that driving RVs as opposed to parking them keeps running gear in the best shape. Of course this makes a lot of sense. However, lots of RVs are used to go south for winter or north for summer resulting in long term parking.
I start it up and run the engine from time to time. However, being up on the jacks with slides out and the rig being in the "live in" mode eliminates driving it around.
We use it in the spring - fall and drive it south (fl) for winter into spring. That's when it sits.
Here in Connecticut they use a very corrosive liquid on the roads as a pre treatment. The transmission radiator cooler rotted out one year. This year all four brake rotors were rusted beyond repair.
Do any of you have a routine of maintenance before a long session of parking?
Please advise

Ray,IN · 08-11-2015, 09:36 PM

To locate your first post, go to your user CP(control panel) in top LH of every screen. You should see a list of your subscribed threads, which is threads you elect to follow-if that is what you chose.
Otherwise, you may use the search feature in the same bar across the screen to search for topics you began.
Back to your question about long-term parking effects. Use a hose to wash away that crud from brake rotors. To keep them from freezing to brake pads, it may be possible to raise one end of the coach with the jacks enough to rotate the wheels once every month, which should be done anyway to prevent sidewall stress on the tires by moving the footprint to another location.
Tires should be inflated to sidewall listed pressure while in storage/long-term parking. Some tire mfgrs, recommend 10psi over that for storage to reduce sidewall deformation/stress.
That's my best information, not necessarily what is best. When we used to spend all winter in FL or TX, we had a 5er. With our MH we've never spent more than 3 weeks without moving; and everything had/has drum brakes.

tim fm ct · 08-12-2015, 08:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

To locate your first post, go to your user CP(control panel) in top LH of every screen. You should see a list of your subscribed threads, which is threads you elect to follow-if that is what you chose.
Otherwise, you may use the search feature in the same bar across the screen to search for topics you began.
Back to your question about long-term parking effects. Use a hose to wash away that crud from brake rotors. To keep them from freezing to brake pads, it may be possible to raise one end of the coach with the jacks enough to rotate the wheels once every month, which should be done anyway to prevent sidewall stress on the tires by moving the footprint to another location.
Tires should be inflated to sidewall listed pressure while in storage/long-term parking. Some tire mfgrs, recommend 10psi over that for storage to reduce sidewall deformation/stress.
That's my best information, not necessarily what is best. When we used to spend all winter in FL or TX, we had a 5er. With our MH we've never spent more than 3 weeks without moving; and everything had/has drum brakes.

Thanks Ray,
Turning the wheels sure does make sense. Would it be necessary to pull the slide outs in before lifting the wheels? There probably isn't anything to put on the rotors that wouldn't screw up the pads right?

Ray,IN · 08-13-2015, 06:05 PM

I don't think you must move the slides to lift the wheels enough to give them 1/4 turn. Anything you put on the rotors will get on the pads. I suspect the act of turning the wheels will rub off light rust.

tim fm ct · 08-13-2015, 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

I don't think you must move the slides to lift the wheels enough to give them 1/4 turn. Anything you put on the rotors will get on the pads. I suspect the act of turning the wheels will rub off light rust.

Thanks Ray,
Not sure how the 1/4 turn would rub off light rust. What is rubbing against the wheel?

Ray,IN · 08-14-2015, 09:22 PM

Brake pads continually rub against the rotor. That's the main reason not to put anything on rotors, anything on rotors will contaminate pads. Sorry I was unclear, I meant 1/4 turn from the last resting spot, the wheel may be turned any number of times.
What happens when long-term parking- is, the rotor can rust around the pad and "freeze" the wheel in position. Unlike brake drums, which are not in contact with brake shoes until braking is applied.

tim fm ct · 08-15-2015, 04:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

Brake pads continually rub against the rotor. That's the main reason not to put anything on rotors, anything on rotors will contaminate pads. Sorry I was unclear, I meant 1/4 turn from the last resting spot, the wheel may be turned any number of times.
What happens when long-term parking- is, the rotor can rust around the pad and "freeze" the wheel in position. Unlike brake drums, which are not in contact with brake shoes until braking is applied.

Thanks Ray, ok I follow you.

Papa_Jim · 08-15-2015, 08:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

Brake pads continually rub against the rotor. That's the main reason not to put anything on rotors, anything on rotors will contaminate pads. Sorry I was unclear, I meant 1/4 turn from the last resting spot, the wheel may be turned any number of times.
What happens when long-term parking- is, the rotor can rust around the pad and "freeze" the wheel in position. Unlike brake drums, which are not in contact with brake shoes until braking is applied.

On air brake systems, when the park brake is engaged, long term parking can cause brake shoe to brake drum rust bonding.

Jim

jsides · 08-16-2015, 07:23 AM

My 2005 A class gasser is parked four and a half months in the winter inside unheated, storage in Ontario. I make sure tire pressures are all up, do not apply any parking brake, take batteries out, then put her to bed. I have never had a brake problem with long term storage. The larger rotors on bigger chassis do not cause problems with sitting, they are not like a car where sitting for for 4 or 5 weeks feels like you have square rotors. As for turning your wheels, not all MHs have jacks and a safety issue come into trying to turn wheels. When servicing mine I found it tough to turn rear wheels, fronts were not too bad, is realy worth it. I know there will be people out there that will want to rip me a new ahole but I think there some people with not much to do and are looking for problems.

tim fm ct · 08-16-2015, 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsides

My 2005 A class gasser is parked four and a half months in the winter inside unheated, storage in Ontario. I make sure tire pressures are all up, do not apply any parking brake, take batteries out, then put her to bed. I have never had a brake problem with long term storage. The larger rotors on bigger chassis do not cause problems with sitting, they are not like a car where sitting for for 4 or 5 weeks feels like you have square rotors. As for turning your wheels, not all MHs have jacks and a safety issue come into trying to turn wheels. When servicing mine I found it tough to turn rear wheels, fronts were not too bad, is realy worth it. I know there will be people out there that will want to rip me a new ahole but I think there some people with not much to do and are looking for problems.

Got to say, it's great that you never had a brake problem. However, heated or unheated, having inside storage is great for motor homes. Quite frankly, I don't think that I would've had brake problems either if I had inside storage.

jsides · 08-17-2015, 06:09 AM

When I stated I had inside storage, it is in a farmers pole barn with gravel floor with screen vents at the top for air circulation. Still gets damp and cold, just no snow or freezing rain. Its a newer pole barn, no pigeons or mice, thank god The owner is in and out of the barn various times with the big doors wide open.