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Old 12-10-2017, 10:21 AM   #1
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Looking to upgrade Trailer receiver !

Hello ! Just thought I put this out there, I have a 2008 Holiday Rambler,
Admiral with the workhorse chassis. Looking to upgrade my receiver on the RV ,like to go with a heavier capacity,the one on my is 5000lbs rated . Has anyone out there upgraded with a heavier receiver!thanks jeff
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Old 12-10-2017, 10:24 AM   #2
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It may not be a case of just upgrading the hitch.

Often times, what the hitch is mounted to isn't built for more hitch capacity.

My MH has a 5000 lb hitch but the MH builder has de-rated it to 3500 lbs, due to frame extensions.
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Old 12-10-2017, 10:32 AM   #3
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Your towing capacity is rated to what your front end is rated for i.e. my coach has a front end rating of 16,500 so I have a 15,000 lb hitch.
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Old 12-10-2017, 10:54 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by RollinOn View Post
Your towing capacity is rated to what your front end is rated for i.e. my coach has a front end rating of 16,500 so I have a 15,000 lb hitch.
What???

Your front end rating has nothing to do with your hitch rating. Hitch rating is based on chassis rating, transmission rating, rear axle capacity and so on - but not your front axle.
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Old 12-10-2017, 11:57 AM   #5
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Jeff-

Welcome, from a fellow 2008 HR Admiral owner!

According to the brochure for your coach, these values apply:

GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) 22,000 pounds
GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating) 26,000 pounds

If your coach was fully loaded (i.e., GVW = GVWR), then you'd be limited to towing 4,000 pounds, no matter what hitch is on the coach.

Have you had your coach weighed in loaded condition yet (preferably a four-corner weigh)?
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Old 12-10-2017, 01:01 PM   #6
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I highly doubt that your chassis, driveline, and brakes will allow for more capacity than what it currently has. I upgraded my 10,000# hitch to a 15,000# one, but only after Tiffin gave their approval. How heavy is your toad? If your loaded coach weighs 21,000# or less, you can tow a 5,000# toad.
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Old 12-10-2017, 06:09 PM   #7
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You know I think everyone should get on the same page with towing rated devices. I am not sure the way the trailer industry rates hitches and the way RV industry talks about towing rates. The trailer industry rates hitches Class I through V and they not only take into consideration the towing capacity of the vehicle towed but the tongue weight of that device. So there is a distinct difference with towing a vehicle vs towing a trailer. I am not so sure what the RV industry is referring to when they talk about the rated towing weight of a motor home, t is just the weight of the toad as there is negligible tongue weight. I pull a 24' cargo trailer weighing about 11,000 lbs. with a tongue weight of about 500 lbs. with a class IV hitch, and no equalizer. The 500 lbs tongue weight does not deflect my rear height but 1/2 in so I feel safe. I still get 7.5 to 8 mpg. It would be interesting to get some expert advice about the differences as well as are we comparing apples to apples with that rating of the trailer industry vs the RV industry. Here is a siste that explains the trailer industry's rating. https://www.reese-hitches.com/learni...towing-classes
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Old 12-10-2017, 06:29 PM   #8
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If you have air suspension and the rear is dropping at all, you may be overloading it. Have you checked the tongue weight ?

The ride height control should be sensing the drop and adding air to level it. It could be that the bags are at max pressure and still not supporting the weight.
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Old 12-10-2017, 07:39 PM   #9
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you guys really need to check this post. Trailers you tow behind your MH / Pictures of the whole rig
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Old 12-10-2017, 08:35 PM   #10
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you guys really need to check this post. Trailers you tow behind your MH / Pictures of the whole rig
You would be surprised how many of those pictured are out of compliance with safe operating practices for towing a trailer. I used to tow a 12,000# trailer with 1500# of tongue weight. I replaced a 10,000# hitch with a 15,000# one to safely carry 12.5 % of the load on the hitch. 10-15% is the safe recommended weight. Someone just posted he feels safe with less than 5% of the load on his hitch. I've also seen some on the road with the back of the coach sagging from the overloaded hitch. Both could be an accident waiting to happen.

Edit: The towing capacity of a motorhome normally is dealing with the total weight of the trailer or toad. The hitch will determine how much tongue weight is allowed. Often it is 10% of the rated towing capacity.
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Old 12-10-2017, 09:50 PM   #11
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As recommended by someone, I took my 2004 W22 in to a dealership in Ft Lauderdale, FL that specialized in supplying medium trucks for landscaping and inter-city delivery. They also had a section in their shop for building custom trailer hitches from scratch! They also had custom made 3' to 6' sections of frame rails that where slightly smaller that could fit inside the chassis frame rails. This way they could fully mig weld the two together. So they were able to extend my W22 frame rails out to the end of the rear cap. They then mig welded a 6"X6"X1/4" thick box between the rails. They then made a square 2"x2" hole in the center of the box to weld in the receiver at both ends. They then installed a 1"X3/16" reinforcement band on the end of the receiver. They rated the hitch at 18,000#s. OK, yes I know I am way over GVWR as my race car trailer weights 9600#s, however since I had it installed in 2008 I have had nada, net, zero problems! Total cost was $550 parts, material, and labor.
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Old 12-10-2017, 10:25 PM   #12
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As recommended by someone, I took my 2004 W22 in to a dealership in Ft Lauderdale, FL that specialized in supplying medium trucks for landscaping and inter-city delivery. They also had a section in their shop for building custom trailer hitches from scratch! They also had custom made 3' to 6' sections of frame rails that where slightly smaller that could fit inside the chassis frame rails. This way they could fully mig weld the two together. So they were able to extend my W22 frame rails out to the end of the rear cap. They then mig welded a 6"X6"X1/4" thick box between the rails. They then made a square 2"x2" hole in the center of the box to weld in the receiver at both ends. They then installed a 1"X3/16" reinforcement band on the end of the receiver. They rated the hitch at 18,000#s. OK, yes I know I am way over GVWR as my race car trailer weights 9600#s, however since I had it installed in 2008 I have had nada, net, zero problems! Total cost was $550 parts, material, and labor.
Congrats to you. You upgraded the right way. Many just slap on a bigger hitch and hit the road. You may still be above GCWR the manufacturer established, but you are structurally sound and with good driving techniques, you have shown how to increase the utility of your motorhome. Some priceless toys too.
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Old 12-10-2017, 11:32 PM   #13
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What???

Your front end rating has nothing to do with your hitch rating. Hitch rating is based on chassis rating, transmission rating, rear axle capacity and so on - but not your front axle.

really, I didn't know that.
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Old 12-11-2017, 06:05 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davebw31 View Post
As recommended by someone, I took my 2004 W22 in to a dealership in Ft Lauderdale, FL that specialized in supplying medium trucks for landscaping and inter-city delivery. They also had a section in their shop for building custom trailer hitches from scratch! They also had custom made 3' to 6' sections of frame rails that where slightly smaller that could fit inside the chassis frame rails. This way they could fully mig weld the two together. So they were able to extend my W22 frame rails out to the end of the rear cap. They then mig welded a 6"X6"X1/4" thick box between the rails. They then made a square 2"x2" hole in the center of the box to weld in the receiver at both ends. They then installed a 1"X3/16" reinforcement band on the end of the receiver. They rated the hitch at 18,000#s. OK, yes I know I am way over GVWR as my race car trailer weights 9600#s, however since I had it installed in 2008 I have had nada, net, zero problems! Total cost was $550 parts, material, and labor.
Similarly, I went to a truck/trailer shop in Delanco NJ and they re-fabricated my factory installed hitch rated at 5K, (a 5K load should have 500# on the ball for safe travel). I needed a hitch for 10K trailer and 900# on the ball. They added a 2.5"x 3" box tube to the top of the cross rail welded in place. then a fabricated a new receiver tube long enough to be welded to the rear motor mount and the base of the cross frame. This is gusted in all areas for torque and twist.

The shop owner said he felt very comfortable that the modification was good enough for even 15K and a 1500 ball but I will never need that. When I had contacted FL they said the mfg only put on a 5K for liability but the engine and frame is good for more. I have a Reeze equalizer hitch. I know- it is not needed but I feel the difference with and without. Much more control with - believe me. I have been pulling trailers for over 40 years (boat, utility etc) and the equalizer help to distribute the load especially to the front axle. I do run the rear tires at 110# air and front at 95#. All tire temperatures run within 10 degrees of each other. Always check your tire temp in more than one location on each tire. I check the outer tread and compare to the middle tread. excessive variation will indicate improper inflation.

With over 15K miles up and down rt 95 on this modification I feel it was more than OK regardless of the mfg statements.
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