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Old 07-09-2015, 11:06 AM   #15
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A 1/2 pipe nipple will let you connect the in and out air lines at the air dryer and let you go on your way😎🇺🇸
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Old 07-09-2015, 11:08 AM   #16
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Thanks to all for posting this problem and solution.

I am off to buy a 1/2" brass pipe thread plug and/or nipple, today!

Air Dryer to be serviced next month.
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Old 07-09-2015, 05:38 PM   #17
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Depending on your dryer configuration you may need more than just a nipple. I saw a good article on this by Barry Beam.

http://www.beamalarm.com/Documents/e...er_bypass.html


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Old 07-09-2015, 05:44 PM   #18
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Dean it may take more plumbing so get them when they service it.
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Old 07-09-2015, 07:17 PM   #19
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I guess I am confused.

The problem stated, was that the purge valve failed to close unloading all air except that behind check valves.

Plugging the purge valve was offered as a solution. One 1/2" brass male threaded plug?

Is this not correct? (The Foretravel access (BeamAlarm.com)from the engine hatch is not feasible on my rig.)
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Old 07-09-2015, 07:49 PM   #20
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I have had the same problem with the purge valve sticking. the fitting is a 1/2" coupling. That is the size of fitting with a Haldex air dryer. I did replace with a new unit being 8 years old. I found Carquest had the best price as surprising as that sounds.
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Old 07-09-2015, 11:01 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deandec View Post
I guess I am confused.

The problem stated, was that the purge valve failed to close unloading all air except that behind check valves.

Plugging the purge valve was offered as a solution. One 1/2" brass male threaded plug?

Is this not correct? (The Foretravel access (BeamAlarm.com)from the engine hatch is not feasible on my rig.)
Yes, you remove the malfunctioning purge valve and plug the hole in the air drier where it was with any kind of a 1/2" iron pipe threaded plug. Air driers I've seen are generally accessible from underneath the rig. They are usually located near the engine and in a pusher, somewhere near the rear axle.
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Old 07-11-2015, 08:49 AM   #22
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Loren Rice, I belong to Good Sam and have their roadside assistance program. While others have complained on this forum about Good Sam I have always had a good experience. Once while in a remote area of Colorado I blew a heater hose. Called GS and were on the road again in a few hours. This time the tech was there in 45 minutes and you know the rest of the story. To me their service is worth the cost. But that's my opinion and I'm sure you will here many others
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Old 07-11-2015, 09:50 AM   #23
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Ours is up front between the frame rails and easy and use leveler to lift a bit even better.

Did not look close to see how to bypass or plug valve when we changed the unit.

As stared before, address this when it is being serviced as then someone is touching actual unit and can determine correct part and process.

Chassis builder had incorrect unit listed for ours and made a mess of the process for us but we learned better way that saved a bundle so all was good.
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