Quote:
Originally Posted by Sealevel Ram
I have an 04 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom Diesel pusher.
When I look at the "House" voltage digital readout on the inside wall, it starts out at 11+ volts. I turn on some lights and the reading drops, and soon the fridge is flashing "LOW DC".
It happens with the unit plugged in (30 AMPS), or not, or running on generator. Don't know about 50 Amps.
Doesn't happen with the engine running.
My battery bank is new and good. Took them all out and tested them.
In the last year or so I have replace the inverter/charger and the transfer switch and the EMS board.
Don't know if it is related, but the EMS readout is not correct for 30 AMPS. Couldn't believe it is part of the problem, since the EMS is for AC only, I think.
Please help if you know about this problem.
Thanks.
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Sealevel Ram,
Let me ask you a question or two. Yours is the Ultimate Freedom. Our coach, is one step below yours, an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the CAT 330HP C-7. Ours came with the Dimensions 2000 watt Inverter/Charger. You said you replaced yours. What, may I ask was the model? And, what did you go to, to replace it? And, is there a switch on the inverter/charger that you changed to, that selects how many amp hours your total house battery stats are? There was/is one on the Dimensions unit we had and, there is on the Magnum model 2012ME that replaced it.
Second, you have TWO charging systems for your batteries. One is the charging system from your engines alternator and the second charging system is from your Inverter/Charger. If your U/F is anywhere near the same design (in wiring and charging) as the Winne Vectra (sister ship to ours and also, one step below your model) and our Horizon, the two charging systems are totally separate and, share nothing in each charging system, other than the batteries.
Now, also, being that your coach is an '04, I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say it's also JUST LIKE all Winnes and Itascas built in this era/time frame. In that, your inverter/charger charges ONLY the house batteries, not the chassis batteries, when on either shore power or generator power.
But, that's the way it might have been from the factory. That's not to say that someone (maybe you or a previous owner if one exists) didn't change or alter that system, so that your inverter/charger now also charges the chassis batteries too. I say "might" have been because I hate or hesitate to make statements that I'm not totally sure of what I'm implying. I say THAT because, I know for a fact that in the '05 and below, from the Vectra on down, and the Horizon on down, that was the way it was setup from the factory. Starting '06, Winne/Itasca started installing the item called the Trik-L-Start that is a controller for keeping the chassis batteries charged, while on shore power or generator power.
Did upper echelon coaches (like your Ultimate Freedom and the Ultimate Advantage) in the Winne/Itasca lineup have different charging systems, who knows? I'm certainly no expert.
I'm only telling you all this because I don't know just how much you know about your charging systems. So, with all that B.S. being said, your shore power/generator based power input (130VAC) is what powers up your inverter/charger. The charging side output goes right through the large battery cables that enter it, from the house batteries. And, there's also a very large, (I think) 200 amp fuse that's inline with the positive cable from your house batteries. The connections on that need to be checked and, also to make sure that it's intact and not blown. But, if that were the case, you'd have no 12VDC power at the inverter/charger and, no house appliances that are 12V powered, would be up and running.
So, the very first thing I might check is, all the battery connections. And that also includes the negative battery connections AT THE FRAME of the coach. You see, all the negative cables go to a welded on tab, at the frame. Those can get severely corroded/rusted and loose due to their location. Once you've determined all the connections are clean and tight, then it's time to break out the trusty volt-ohm meter and start checking the output of the inverter/charger, RIGHT AT THE CABLE attachment points on the inverter/charger.
Check them BEFORE you plug into shore power and, after you plug into shore power. Your inverter side need not be ON, only the charging side needs to be ON. Note all readings. Once the readings are taken, then take them AT THE HOUSE BATTERY CONNECTIONS. Compare the readings. If you find the charging side is not supplying more than at least 13-13.5 volts at the inverter/charger connections, you've got an issue with that charging unit.
If you have that amount or more voltage at the inverter/charger connections but, less than that at the house batteries, you're issue is either the cables, connections, 200 amp fuse and or it's connections.
There is lot's more I could go on with here but, this info will get you started in tracking down your issue. Let us know how these tests report.
Scott
2018 Goldwing Tour DCT Airbag
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