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Old 06-29-2016, 10:53 AM   #15
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If you are showing 52lbs pressure at the street entrance, is that a flow restrictor? We had the same problem with a cheap restrictor so I made the mistake of getting another cheap one. With no restrictor the pressure was normal. I still need to get a good one with a gauge.

As for scalding temperatures. Does anyone not point the shower head away from them and slowly raise the hot temp while checking it by quickly putting your hand in the spray? Especially with an unfamiliar shower. If not show your kids how to do this first time you try it out.
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Old 06-29-2016, 10:54 AM   #16
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Low Water Pressure

You have a restriction somewhere. Look at the hose you connect with. You are looking for a washer with a screen imbedded, these are meant to trap crud from entering the hose/coach. There should be one at the campground end of your hose and one at the connection point to the coach. Take them both put and clean them, better yet replace them with a new washer/screen. If there is just a washer replace it with one with a screen.

As mentioned before, if you have a flow restrictor remove it and test.

If you have no screens look for a restriction somewhere else, maybe a filter that is clogged, a bent pipe, a pressure restrictor, a kink in the hose or a bad check valve (there is/should be, a check valve between your fresh water tank/pump and the city water source (CG hose bib) so when the pump runs you are not trying to pressurize the CG) if that is stuck part way it will allow pressure to leak into the system giving you full pressure that trickles down then builds back slowly.

It is definitely between where you connect to the campground hose bib and the check valve for water from the CG.
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Old 06-29-2016, 11:36 AM   #17
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You said no problem with the water pump so that rules out most of the items. Only thing I can think of that would affect street water and not pump water is the onboard pressure regulator/checkvalve. Should be easy to find..just trace the city water hookup line and it's probably the first thing you'll run into (assuming you aren't running an additional filter on the hose itself which could be the culprit).
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Old 06-29-2016, 07:50 PM   #18
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I had similar problem and it was the hose. The inner core collapsed, replaced it and fix was immediate.

Rich
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Old 06-29-2016, 07:58 PM   #19
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We are at a private site and well away from the water connection, using a 100' 3/4" drinking safe hose. The water pressure at the spigot seems very adequate. The water pressure at the coach is very adequate, at least for the first 5 seconds, then it drops considerably. Not enough to be unusable, but certainly not what is expected.
After thinking that something was amiss at the city side of the water supply, I now think that it has more to do with a slightly over-sized 100' incoming hose.

My thoughts are that the water supply has a chance to build up to proper pressure while no faucets are open, but once the request is made, the build up is only capable of a few seconds of 'normal' water pressure before the larger diameter 100' hose creates a 'refill' situation within it's length. If that makes any sense.
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Old 06-30-2016, 12:24 AM   #20
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I have had very good results using a Watts 263 pressure regulator. The cheaper regulators reduce flow. Got mine here, they have great service.

https://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/P...Regulators.htm
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Old 06-30-2016, 12:34 AM   #21
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Low Water Pressure

Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterT View Post
We are at a private site and well away from the water connection, using a 100' 3/4" drinking safe hose. The water pressure at the spigot seems very adequate. The water pressure at the coach is very adequate, at least for the first 5 seconds, then it drops considerably. Not enough to be unusable, but certainly not what is expected.
After thinking that something was amiss at the city side of the water supply, I now think that it has more to do with a slightly over-sized 100' incoming hose.

My thoughts are that the water supply has a chance to build up to proper pressure while no faucets are open, but once the request is made, the build up is only capable of a few seconds of 'normal' water pressure before the larger diameter 100' hose creates a 'refill' situation within it's length. If that makes any sense.

Does the water pressure at the spigot drop off after 5 seconds as well as at the end of the hose, if so, it is not your hose or coach. You will get reduced pressure from a 100' hose and your thoughts on building up pressure are correct, but unless that hose is damaged or kinked you should not see anything like what you are describing. Being oversized in diameter is good, being oversized in length not so much. Check to see if there are any screened washers in the hose that are not clean.
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Old 06-30-2016, 12:58 AM   #22
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Static pressure will not be reduced due to the long hose, flow will be as the pressure drops when the water is flowing. It's been 20 years since I did any real water system design work and I left all the books behind!
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