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Old 05-01-2011, 08:43 AM   #1
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Main Power Switch

I have a Travel Supreme MH. It has a main power rocker switch that controls a solenoid that kills all coach power including the refrigerator. It does not affect the engine or hydraulic stabilizer circuits. The solenoid failed in December so I bypassed it. I finally replaced it with the exact model. So anytime I want the coach to have power this solenoid has to be powered up. That seems counter productive from an energy consumption standpoint. Since I keep my coach plugged in most of its life the small current draw is not a problem, but if I were dry docking and relying on my batteries, I would install a manual switch.
Anyone have an opinion as to what they were thinking when they locatd this main power switch by the door? When is the right time to turn this circuit off?
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Old 05-01-2011, 08:55 AM   #2
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The idea behind the solonoid was to turn off all power while in storage. It made it a lot simpler than going all over the coach making sure all switchs were off. You would never turn it off when dry camping, because nothing would work.(DC) If you keep the MH plugged in, you will have to make sure you keep checking the water level in the batteries.
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Old 05-01-2011, 11:08 AM   #3
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I'm not sure what you have, but it may be a relay/solenoid of the "latching" type. These use a pulse supplied by a momentary switch to close or open the circuit until receiving a second pulse - which would move the circuit to the opposite position. They do not need full time power to hold the batteries connected/disconnected. If this isn't what you have - that's what you're looking for.




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Old 05-01-2011, 12:31 PM   #4
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Anyone have an opinion as to what they were thinking when they locatd this main power switch by the door? When is the right time to turn this circuit off?
That's where one of my switches is located...easy to get to whether inside or outside the coach. I turn mine off only if in storage and only if not plugged into shore power. If in storage and have shore power, I leave it on...the batteries are being charged.
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Old 05-01-2011, 05:25 PM   #5
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I like the latching relay idea. Mine requires power to keep it engaged. It lasted since 2002 so I guess it should be good for another 9 years or so.
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Old 06-27-2012, 09:54 PM   #6
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I have a 05 TS Select..and I think I may need to replace my solenoid. I can turn the main power switch on...and I get nothing. Sometimes it will take a couple of times before I get power. I checked the rocker switch..and this appears to be working fine when testing it with an ohm meter.

Where is the solenoid...and how do I go about replacing it?

Thanks,
Lee
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Old 06-28-2012, 09:03 AM   #7
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My solenoid was located next to the battery compartment behind a trap door that hinged at the top. The only reason I could find it was because I noticed that the back of the small compartment beside my battery compartment did not reach the floor. When I put my hand under the bottom and lifted it folded up and revealed about 50 wire termination points. The solenoid was there. It looks like a starter solenoid for a car engine. Good Luck.
(Nice coach, by the way)
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Old 06-28-2012, 10:20 AM   #8
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I have a 05 TS Select..and I think I may need to replace my solenoid. I can turn the main power switch on...and I get nothing. Sometimes it will take a couple of times before I get power. I checked the rocker switch..and this appears to be working fine when testing it with an ohm meter.

Where is the solenoid...and how do I go about replacing it?

Thanks,
Lee
Sounds like you have a latching solenoid with burned/pitted/corroded terminals. These solenoids, especially if they sit to long without being used, also can develop a high resistance coating on the contacts that will cause your symptom (or your batteries are weak). The solenoids are usually mounted near the batteries so the heavy cables going to them are as short as possible.

Latching solenoids look similar to automotive starting solenoids except they have what appears to be a 'top hat'. If you find it, disconnect your batteries, make a drawing of the wiring, label the wires, remove it, and take it apart. Then you can clean (fine sandpaper) the contacts and save a bundle. Latching relays aren't cheap.
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