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Old 05-22-2012, 07:47 PM   #71
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What a great help you all have been I thank those of you who have posted information on this painting project. It's much different then doing my sailboats.

As we get ready to order the next colors it is bringing up ideas on the paint sceme. I would like to get some design or "flare" to this paint job. As described in prior posts I would like to add some color to this silver in the form of stripes on the side. To accomplish this do I use making tape such as a real thin tape to make the stripes and lay them out on the coach, then border this with a wider tape and masking paper when actually applying paint?

Next question: If I decide to enhance this paint sceme with metallic additive and clear coat would I do this as the last phase? Meaning after I get all 3 colors on the coach do I then hand wet sand the entire coach after all colors are painted on the shoot the clear coat with the metallic additive in multible coats?
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Old 05-22-2012, 08:54 PM   #72
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Back in the days when I used to paint cars, trucks and an sometimes a boat... I use metallic paint. The metallic was added at the shop and it was mixed into the paint. When sprayin metallic paint yu have to watch for metallic runs. It is like a paint run. When yu apply too much paint you get a paint run but with metallic runs it take even less to cause the metallic flakes to run. If there is too much wet paint the metal flakes will sag within the wet paint.

What is worse is that a paint run yo can wet sand ou when it hardens but a metallic run you have to sand all the way down. Use many, many light light coats.

The clear coats we used to add took a lot of work. You do need to prepafter the base panic has dried and it takes time.

Good luck. It I looking great!!!
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Old 05-23-2012, 07:53 AM   #73
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just a thought but don't think I read in prior posts anything about how the running gear (engine, tranny, chassis system etc.) is along with the interior and the working items such as fridge, hvac, pumps, converters/inverters etc. are. I would assume they are in excellent shape as the "Awesome" looking paint job seems quite expensive in materials and labor hours (paid and sweat). I do realize that when you are done that will be one sweet looking motor coach hauling butt down the highway.
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Old 05-23-2012, 08:07 AM   #74
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A lot of work Jchet! I'm sure you will make it what you want. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 05-23-2012, 01:02 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jchet View Post
As we get ready to order the next colors it is bringing up ideas on the paint sceme. I would like to get some design or "flare" to this paint job. As described in prior posts I would like to add some color to this silver in the form of stripes on the side. To accomplish this do I use making tape such as a real thin tape to make the stripes and lay them out on the coach, then border this with a wider tape and masking paper when actually applying paint?
Yes.. thin 1/8" tape to make the line's borders, then mask the rest. Then try to copy on the other side

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jchet View Post
Next question: If I decide to enhance this paint sceme with metallic additive and clear coat would I do this as the last phase? Meaning after I get all 3 colors on the coach do I then hand wet sand the entire coach after all colors are painted on the shoot the clear coat with the metallic additive in multible coats?
As far as I know, no.. you would not mix metallic into any final clear going over more than one color. Also, I do believe you have a 1 stage paint which means there is usually no clear coat. In order to clear, you would need to sand with 600-800 grit paper to provide a 'tooth' for the clear to grip.
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Old 05-23-2012, 01:04 PM   #76
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Member 'stink' would prolly be the man to listen too.. He has answered these questions better than I already..
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Old 05-23-2012, 10:03 PM   #77
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just a thought but don't think I read in prior posts anything about how the running gear (engine, tranny, chassis system etc.) is along with the interior and the working items such as fridge, hvac, pumps, converters/inverters etc. are. I would assume they are in excellent shape as the "Awesome" looking paint job seems quite expensive in materials and labor hours (paid and sweat). I do realize that when you are done that will be one sweet looking motor coach hauling butt down the highway.
The 8.3 Cummins and Allison 6 speed has 42,000 miles and was checked out and serviced by the company that services our commercial fleet of straight trucks and semi tractors. The Genset had 435 hrs on it. I changed the oil and filter and have run it about 15 hrs since we bought it.

The AC units seem to work fine, fridge has run off the shore power and Genset. I have not filled the propane tank so I have not run anything off propane yet. The roof has no leaks, water pressure is fine, hot water heater is operating.

As in any project like this I'm sure there are unknowns. The unit was really not retailable because of the outside condition. The inside is excellent, the dealer took it on trade on another coach from the original owner who let it sit on his property.

We paid cents on the dollar for the coach, I offered much much below what they wanted as I knew they would never retail the coach. They had it for 3 months and they were either going to wholesale it at a loss or retail it to me for wholesale. Anyone buying the coach was going to need the capitol to rehab it and if doing it themselves a location to do it.

We're fortunate to be in a position to rehab it and a large building to do it in that's vacant at the moment. Also having some employees with skill has been a huge benefit. This has enabled us to get a larger MH and a DP and be in the project I believe for less then our original budget was for a MH.
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Old 05-24-2012, 08:14 AM   #78
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Thanks Jchet! I kinda figured that the rest of the coach had to be in really good shape for the energy you've put into it. Can't wait to see the finished rig.
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Old 05-24-2012, 09:48 AM   #79
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Quote:
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The 8.3 Cummins and Allison 6 speed has 42,000 miles and was checked out and serviced by the company that services our commercial fleet of straight trucks and semi tractors. The Genset had 435 hrs on it. I changed the oil and filter and have run it about 15 hrs since we bought it.

The AC units seem to work fine, fridge has run off the shore power and Genset. I have not filled the propane tank so I have not run anything off propane yet. The roof has no leaks, water pressure is fine, hot water heater is operating.

As in any project like this I'm sure there are unknowns. The unit was really not retailable because of the outside condition. The inside is excellent, the dealer took it on trade on another coach from the original owner who let it sit on his property.

We paid cents on the dollar for the coach, I offered much much below what they wanted as I knew they would never retail the coach. They had it for 3 months and they were either going to wholesale it at a loss or retail it to me for wholesale. Anyone buying the coach was going to need the capitol to rehab it and if doing it themselves a location to do it.

We're fortunate to be in a position to rehab it and a large building to do it in that's vacant at the moment. Also having some employees with skill has been a huge benefit. This has enabled us to get a larger MH and a DP and be in the project I believe for less then our original budget was for a MH.
Sometimes things just work out, looks like the cards played out well in your favor. Can't wait for the updated pictures, good luck!
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Old 05-31-2012, 03:42 AM   #80
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Sounds like you have a nice coach albet the paint. It sounds like you painted with a one step paint that needs no clear. When you add any strips, use the same paint and sand after masking to give the base paint some "tooth" to hold. You can use the green scotchbright pads (new) for this. After painting all strips you can clear but you need to sand all painted surfaces before clearing. you can use the green scotchbright pads again. If you want any metalflake in the paint you can have the paint shop add to only the first coat of clear, about 1/3d of the clearcoat. Did the paint you used for a base color need a catylist added before spraying? In other words the base paint will "cure" in 12 to 24 hours completely like epoxy glue. If no catalyst was needed, just thinner than you need to wait up to 30 days before adding stripes or clear to allow the base paint to "dry"
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Old 06-01-2012, 05:19 PM   #81
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Sounds like you have a nice coach albet the paint. It sounds like you painted with a one step paint that needs no clear. When you add any strips, use the same paint and sand after masking to give the base paint some "tooth" to hold. You can use the green scotchbright pads (new) for this. After painting all strips you can clear but you need to sand all painted surfaces before clearing. you can use the green scotchbright pads again. If you want any metalflake in the paint you can have the paint shop add to only the first coat of clear, about 1/3d of the clearcoat. Did the paint you used for a base color need a catylist added before spraying? In other words the base paint will "cure" in 12 to 24 hours completely like epoxy glue. If no catalyst was needed, just thinner than you need to wait up to 30 days before adding stripes or clear to allow the base paint to "dry"

Yes, the paint was 2 part. It's a product primarily used in painting boats Awlcraft 2000 metallic. It was 2 parts base and 1 part converter and then we used a reducer at 25%.

We have gotten sidetracked some with business so I have had my folks in the field working so we have not had more then a little over 10 hrs to put into the MH this week. Going to get full speed ahead next week in getting it finished. Our best estimate is we have about roughly 90 hrs of work yet to be done. Yesterday I ordered another qt of primer so we can primer all the new doors being built and the scond color being used on the MH and a GL of clear for the final coat when we're done.
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Old 06-01-2012, 05:48 PM   #82
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Sounds like you have a nice coach albet the paint. It sounds like you painted with a one step paint that needs no clear. When you add any strips, use the same paint and sand after masking to give the base paint some "tooth" to hold. You can use the green scotchbright pads (new) for this. After painting all strips you can clear but you need to sand all painted surfaces before clearing. you can use the green scotchbright pads again. If you want any metalflake in the paint you can have the paint shop add to only the first coat of clear, about 1/3d of the clearcoat. Did the paint you used for a base color need a catylist added before spraying? In other words the base paint will "cure" in 12 to 24 hours completely like epoxy glue. If no catalyst was needed, just thinner than you need to wait up to 30 days before adding stripes or clear to allow the base paint to "dry"

Yes, the paint was 2 part. It's a product primarily used in painting boats Awlcraft 2000 metallic. It was 2 parts base and 1 part converter and then we used a reducer at 25%.

We have gotten sidetracked some with business so I have had my folks in the field working so we have not had more then a little over 10 hrs to put into the MH this week. Going to get full speed ahead next week in getting it finished. Our best estimate is we have about roughly 90 hrs of work yet to be done. Yesterday I ordered another qt of primer so we can primer all the new doors being built and the scond color being used on the MH and a GL of clear for the final coat when we're done.
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Old 06-01-2012, 09:41 PM   #83
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Can't wait to see the results.
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Old 06-21-2012, 11:17 AM   #84
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Any updates here? Very interesting project!
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