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Old 07-04-2013, 09:52 AM   #1
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MCD windshield shade-dash hump

I would like to install the MCD windshield roller shade in my 2005 Airstream 396 XL class A. Everything seems to check out with fitting the roller assembly at the top but my dash is not flat and has a hump on the drivers side where the instrument panel is. I read that they can modify the bottom section of the shade so that it will conform to the hump when lowered. has anyone installed the MCD or other brand roller shade with a dash hump. I have attached a picture below. Thanks.

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Old 07-04-2013, 09:59 AM   #2
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We have the MCD on the front and have the same hump. The PO had them installed but what MCD did was add material (6-8") below the bottom seam (the seam has some type of stiff rod in it). This extra material then followed the contour of the dash as it made contact when lowered. The extra material was only on the Night shade and not on the day shade.
Sorry, no pix as the MH is in storage.
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Old 07-04-2013, 10:17 AM   #3
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I ordered and installed ours, I followed the "A" pillar instead of letting them hang straight down. This put ours in front of the dash, they work great. I also cut the A pillar covers at the top so the blinds are "captured" and are now impossible to fall no matter what. Then we built custom valences that matched our others to hide the MCD windshield blinds, these also make 90* and hide the side window and door blinds as well.
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Old 07-04-2013, 11:24 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Playtime III View Post
We have the MCD on the front and have the same hump. The PO had them installed but what MCD did was add material (6-8") below the bottom seam (the seam has some type of stiff rod in it). This extra material then followed the contour of the dash as it made contact when lowered. The extra material was only on the Night shade and not on the day shade.
Sorry, no pix as the MH is in storage.
I would love to see the pictures when you get a chance. But that sounds like it would work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 336muffin View Post
I ordered and installed ours, I followed the "A" pillar instead of letting them hang straight down. This put ours in front of the dash, they work great. I also cut the A pillar covers at the top so the blinds are "captured" and are now impossible to fall no matter what. Then we built custom valences that matched our others to hide the MCD windshield blinds, these also make 90* and hide the side window and door blinds as well.
That sound like what I would like to but I would still have a small hump to deal with.

Thanks
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Old 07-04-2013, 02:25 PM   #5
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MCD will put a skirt on the bottom for you, give them careful measurements and they will make what you give them.
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:17 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by 336muffin View Post
I ordered and installed ours, I followed the "A" pillar instead of letting them hang straight down. This put ours in front of the dash, they work great. I also cut the A pillar covers at the top so the blinds are "captured" and are now impossible to fall no matter what. Then we built custom valences that matched our others to hide the MCD windshield blinds, these also make 90* and hide the side window and door blinds as well.
I am just about ready to start the MCD Amer Duo day/night shade project. I am hoping that you can guide me a little in the measuring process to make sure that the shape follows the "A" pillar as you did. The pillar on each side of my coach has 1 1/2" lip that should allow for the shade to slide down to the front of the dash. So if I am understanding this the measurement should be taken after the pillar covers are cut so that the track will be long enough to extend in to the lip on the pillar. Here is a picture of the pillar and cover.

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I am planning on adding a valance as well and will need to talk with them about the hump. Thanks for any help or advice.

Don
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Old 07-19-2013, 07:26 PM   #7
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adonh....I just installed mine about a month ago. Tough job, but doable. The measurement is the critical issue. Regarding the hump. When you check their website and the measurement page, they give you an option for the hump. You measure the height of the hump off of the dash. They then add a more flexible piece to the bottom of the shade.

The critical measurement is the width of the shade. Too short and you have a big gap on both sides. Too long and the 5.5" of frame that the rollers attach to will hit the edges of the windshield. There is a guy at MCD named Charlie Cox. He walked me through measuring the windshield. Since your windshield curves at the upper edges, you have to measure about 1.5" forward of the windshield rubber frame.

I also had to add a piece of wood 8' long and about 4" wide to the ceiling to lower the shade enough to clear the windshield rubber. I used 1" thick wood on my first attempt. I realized after I installed it, it need to be angle cut the entire 8' so that it pitched the shade assembly forward toward the windshield so that the shades followed the "A" pillar better.

I found and later learned that MCD uses an adjustable pole to measure the width. I used my adjustable flag pole and it worked great.

Here is my install post... MCD Windshield Shade Install

I wanted mine to slide down the front of the "A" pillar plastic just like in your photo. The problem is that there is 3/4" of mechanism on each end of the shade, so the material isn't as wide as the "A" pillar edges. I decided to install mine first and then make the decision if I wanted to add some type of extra edge to the "A" pillar plastic to completely block any openings on the edge. I found after doing the install that that was about an inch of open are on each side. For someone to see in, they would have to stand on a ladder and look in. If they want to see a fat old man that badly, more power to them.

Here's a tip though.....The sun screen portion works fine and I didn't really care if it followed the "A" pillar edges or not. On the night shade, they use a piece of solid aluminum rod in the bottom of the shade where they finish the edge. If you have a hump, they add however many inches of additional material to the bottom of the shade that has the aluminum rod. So the shade looks like it has a finished bottom with another 6" (or whatever length you order) of shade with another finished edge. This bottom most finished edge has small lead weights, like fishing sinkers, which makes the material follow the contour of the hump.

Hopefully this is making sense. So as you look at the shade, the first finished edge has a solid aluminum rod. The additional material under that has the weights. Here's what I did different. The material was obviously not as wide as my "A" pillars, so it didn't follow them as the shade was lowered. The shade was about a 1/2" inside the pillars. I drilled the finished edge that the aluminum rod at both ends. The rod is about 1/4" in diameter. I drilled into the end and screwed in a 1.5" screw about a half inch. I put a piece of windshield wiper tubing over the one inch part of the screw that was exposed/extended from the aluminum rod. This screw on both ends was now enough to catch the "A" and follow them down as the shade was lowered.

This is difficult to describe, so PM me and we can talk on the phone if necessary.
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Old 07-20-2013, 11:40 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Diplomat Don View Post
adonh....I just installed mine about a month ago. Tough job, but doable. The measurement is the critical issue. Regarding the hump. When you check their website and the measurement page, they give you an option for the hump. You measure the height of the hump off of the dash. They then add a more flexible piece to the bottom of the shade.

The critical measurement is the width of the shade. Too short and you have a big gap on both sides. Too long and the 5.5" of frame that the rollers attach to will hit the edges of the windshield. There is a guy at MCD named Charlie Cox. He walked me through measuring the windshield. Since your windshield curves at the upper edges, you have to measure about 1.5" forward of the windshield rubber frame.

I also had to add a piece of wood 8' long and about 4" wide to the ceiling to lower the shade enough to clear the windshield rubber. I used 1" thick wood on my first attempt. I realized after I installed it, it need to be angle cut the entire 8' so that it pitched the shade assembly forward toward the windshield so that the shades followed the "A" pillar better.

I found and later learned that MCD uses an adjustable pole to measure the width. I used my adjustable flag pole and it worked great.

Here is my install post... MCD Windshield Shade Install

I wanted mine to slide down the front of the "A" pillar plastic just like in your photo. The problem is that there is 3/4" of mechanism on each end of the shade, so the material isn't as wide as the "A" pillar edges. I decided to install mine first and then make the decision if I wanted to add some type of extra edge to the "A" pillar plastic to completely block any openings on the edge. I found after doing the install that that was about an inch of open are on each side. For someone to see in, they would have to stand on a ladder and look in. If they want to see a fat old man that badly, more power to them.

Here's a tip though.....The sun screen portion works fine and I didn't really care if it followed the "A" pillar edges or not. On the night shade, they use a piece of solid aluminum rod in the bottom of the shade where they finish the edge. If you have a hump, they add however many inches of additional material to the bottom of the shade that has the aluminum rod. So the shade looks like it has a finished bottom with another 6" (or whatever length you order) of shade with another finished edge. This bottom most finished edge has small lead weights, like fishing sinkers, which makes the material follow the contour of the hump.

Hopefully this is making sense. So as you look at the shade, the first finished edge has a solid aluminum rod. The additional material under that has the weights. Here's what I did different. The material was obviously not as wide as my "A" pillars, so it didn't follow them as the shade was lowered. The shade was about a 1/2" inside the pillars. I drilled the finished edge that the aluminum rod at both ends. The rod is about 1/4" in diameter. I drilled into the end and screwed in a 1.5" screw about a half inch. I put a piece of windshield wiper tubing over the one inch part of the screw that was exposed/extended from the aluminum rod. This screw on both ends was now enough to catch the "A" and follow them down as the shade was lowered.

This is difficult to describe, so PM me and we can talk on the phone if necessary.
Thanks for the details on your install. It answered a lot of questions.

"Since your windshield curves at the upper edges, you have to measure about 1.5" forward of the windshield rubber frame"

It looks like I should take my measurement for the width starting at about where curtain rail is attracted from my picture of the "A" pillar in my previous post. That would move the tract forward and align better with the "A" pillar. Does that sound right.

"So as you look at the shade, the first finished edge has a solid aluminum rod. The additional material under that has the weights."

I can see the rod and additional material to cover the hump in your picture. When it is raised does the additional material below the rod wind up or does it stop at the rod.

"The material was obviously not as wide as my "A" pillars, so it didn't follow them as the shade was lowered. The shade was about a 1/2" inside the pillars. I drilled the finished edge that the aluminum rod at both ends. The rod is about 1/4" in diameter. I drilled into the end and screwed in a 1.5" screw about a half inch. I put a piece of windshield wiper tubing over the one inch part of the screw that was exposed/extended from the aluminum rod. This screw on both ends was now enough to catch the "A" and follow them down as the shade was lowered."

That sounds like a perfect way to get the rod to travel down the "A" pillar.

I am going to get some more measurements on Monday and see what I can come up with and will follow up then.

Thanks again for the details and tips. I feel better about doing this project now.
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Old 07-21-2013, 12:59 AM   #9
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Don....To make it work right, you have to cut those angled pillar caps at the top. In your photo, you would need to come back about 4" from where they come to a point and completely cut them away. This allows the new shade and mechanism on the end to almost touch the upper edge of your windshield. I used a table saw and made a nice straight cut on mine. Once you install the new shade, you'll only see the cut edge, which should look nice.

The end of the shade with the metal rod will not roll up into the shade. For that reason, I made the part they use to cover the hump only about 4" so I would not see a lot of it.

If you were to drop straight down from the roof where the shade will mount, it would probably hit a large piece of the dash hump. But if the shade follows the slope of the "A" pillar, it usually only catches a small amount of the hump farther forward. I also found that I didn't have to bring the sunshade all the way down to a flat fit on the dash if you lower the sunshade to. The lower bar of the sunshade and the material block out the small area where the night shade may miss the dash.
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Old 07-21-2013, 08:36 AM   #10
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Don....To make it work right, you have to cut those angled pillar caps at the top. In your photo, you would need to come back about 4" from where they come to a point and completely cut them away. This allows the new shade and mechanism on the end to almost touch the upper edge of your windshield. I used a table saw and made a nice straight cut on mine. Once you install the new shade, you'll only see the cut edge, which should look nice.

The end of the shade with the metal rod will not roll up into the shade. For that reason, I made the part they use to cover the hump only about 4" so I would not see a lot of it.

If you were to drop straight down from the roof where the shade will mount, it would probably hit a large piece of the dash hump. But if the shade follows the slope of the "A" pillar, it usually only catches a small amount of the hump farther forward. I also found that I didn't have to bring the sunshade all the way down to a flat fit on the dash if you lower the sunshade to. The lower bar of the sunshade and the material block out the small area where the night shade may miss the dash.
Yes cutting the pillar caps will allow the track to extend a little more toward the window. I am going to see what I need to do to remove these on Monday. It is one piece that goes from the top to the dash and I don't remember seeing any screws holding it on. I did measure the hump a few days ago where the shade would hit the hump following the "A" pillar and its about 4" to 5" so that should be OK. I did find a picture on the MCD web site of an Airstream with about the same dash set up as mine with the extra fabric to cover the hump. That looks like it would work for me.

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Thanks for walking me through all of this it has really helped, I can now picture the measuring process and how it will all work. I am going to see if I can find a telescoping rod to take the final measurement. I will let you know what I find out on Monday.
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Old 07-22-2013, 05:20 PM   #11
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Yes cutting the pillar caps will allow the track to extend a little more toward the window. I am going to see what I need to do to remove these on Monday. It is one piece that goes from the top to the dash and I don't remember seeing any screws holding it on. I did measure the hump a few days ago where the shade would hit the hump following the "A" pillar and its about 4" to 5" so that should be OK.
OK I looked at the pillar cover and the finger like section (shown in a previous post) that extends over the glass is hollow and I should be able to cut the plastic cover to allow the track to be positioned closer to the glass and the "A" pillar. I took an adjustable pole and was able to get a good measurement from side to side of 97 7/8 inches. This is right along the flat top section and would allow the track to run from glass to glass inside the lip of the "A" pillar. I am sure the actual track length would be adjusted a little but I will let MCD determine this. I am not sure if I will need the 1x3 board, what do you think.

The hump lower down based on the angle of the "A" pillar is about 4 1/2"
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Old 07-22-2013, 09:46 PM   #12
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From looking at your photos, it looks like the power shade may attach to the roof and fit close to the windshield without a spacer of wood. You need to check what your roof is made of. Mine was covered plywood so it made for a good mounting surface. The shade is pretty heavy and uses six clips. Keep in mind that their attachment system uses a clip that catches a track at the back and then clicks forward into place. These only work well if the clips are mounted to a flat surface. If your roof is padded, you may need to create a flat pad, like a spacer under each clip. If you don't the, the clips will be recessed into the padding and won't grab the rail system. You'll see what I mean when the assembly shows up.

They also have a spare set of wires on the shade that prevent it from moving past a certain point when you're driving. They're required for liability reasons, but the shades don't need to have them connected to work. I fished mine done the "A" pillar in case I decided to connect them (connected to ignition (on) 12 volts). I figure no one else will be playing with the shades while I'm driving. The night shade is only controllable from the driver's cockpit.
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Old 09-26-2013, 04:15 PM   #13
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From looking at your photos, it looks like the power shade may attach to the roof and fit close to the windshield without a spacer of wood. You need to check what your roof is made of. Mine was covered plywood so it made for a good mounting surface. The shade is pretty heavy and uses six clips. Keep in mind that their attachment system uses a clip that catches a track at the back and then clicks forward into place. These only work well if the clips are mounted to a flat surface. If your roof is padded, you may need to create a flat pad, like a spacer under each clip. If you don't the, the clips will be recessed into the padding and won't grab the rail system. You'll see what I mean when the assembly shows up.

They also have a spare set of wires on the shade that prevent it from moving past a certain point when you're driving. They're required for liability reasons, but the shades don't need to have them connected to work. I fished mine done the "A" pillar in case I decided to connect them (connected to ignition (on) 12 volts). I figure no one else will be playing with the shades while I'm driving. The night shade is only controllable from the driver's cockpit.
OK I am back. Got involved with other projects at home and with the Coach but I am ready to get this project moving along. I am going with the American Duo day night shades. I have all of my measurements and will go with 97 3/4" width by 41" drop with a 4" hump section. On the side cockpit windows MCD has the "Sway Shade" MCD SwayShade for side windows that are wider at the bottom than at the top like my divers side window. I am also going to get the "Screen Door Pull Up Shade" http://www.mcdinnovations.com/index.php/screen-door-pull-up-shade that looks to also have the "Sway" feature. Then I will get a regular solo night shade to close up at night. The main passenger side window is the same width at the bottom and top so it will take a standard duo. Any thoughts before I call and place the order.

Thanks
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Old 10-06-2013, 02:57 PM   #14
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OK I am back. Got involved with other projects at home and with the Coach but I am ready to get this project moving along. I am going with the American Duo day night shades. I have all of my measurements and will go with 97 3/4" width by 41" drop with a 4" hump section. On the side cockpit windows MCD has the "Sway Shade" MCD SwayShade for side windows that are wider at the bottom than at the top like my divers side window. I am also going to get the "Screen Door Pull Up Shade" http://www.mcdinnovations.com/index.php/screen-door-pull-up-shade that looks to also have the "Sway" feature. Then I will get a regular solo night shade to close up at night. The main passenger side window is the same width at the bottom and top so it will take a standard duo. Any thoughts before I call and place the order.

Thanks
Measure, measure and then measure again. The windshield shade will actually be 96 1/4". I had based the 97 3/4" measurement on mounting the shade further back in the window right up against the A-Pillar. I had looked under the plastic A=pillar trim cover on the passenger side, which was easier to get to and there was nothing behind it. So my plans were to cut the plastic trim back to where the the A-pillar ran bottom to top. But, thankfully before I placed the order I pulled back the plastic cover on the drivers side and here is what I found.

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Behind the cover was a few loose wires running down the A-pillar but also there was a big bundle of wires from under the dash running up through a hole on the crown. There is no way to move them so the roller assembly will need to be moved forward about 1 1/2". No problem except when the 2" width of the roller assembly is considered it extends just to where the windshield starts to curve.

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The white board in the picture is 1 1/2 " wide and I have placed it on the forward line where the 2" roller will be attached. I have left a little less of a 1/4" on bother ends for clearance. The shade should still run down the A-pillar but since shade material om the American Duo is 1.375 narrower that the roller assembly I may have a small gap that I will need to deal with. The fans will be moved forward a little so they won't interfere with the shade
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