Community Forums

smorgan · 07-07-2010, 07:39 AM

I have a 1999 Allegro Bay motorhome with a Ford V10 engine. It is 32'.

The last time I went camping everything worked fine for the first day but on the second when we came back to rv from baseball games the lights were dim on the inside of mh. The AC would not work, refrig quit as well. If I turn the ignition key to on everything gets bright and works but as soon as I turn it back to off, they all go off again although the lights will be dim. It appears that it puts a little charge in the house batteries. If I drive I guess it charges the house batteries and it works again for a little while till they go dead.

What would cause the converter to not be working when on shore power? Shouldn't it work off of that and not the house batteries when on shore power? Any ideas would be appreciated. We are leaving Saturday for a week in Florida.

Thanks!
Scott

TandW · 07-07-2010, 07:53 AM

Check the main breakers in the coach and out at the pedestal. Good luck!!

Ken-55 · 07-07-2010, 07:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smorgan

What would cause the converter to not be working when on shore power? Shouldn't it work off of that and not the house batteries when on shore power? Any ideas would be appreciated.

Not sure about your's, but my converter plugs into the 120v electrical system . . . I'd start there . . . see if you have power to the converter? . . . it probably has a thermal breaker of sorts, have you blocked the airflow to it?

Worst case, I upgraded my converter earlier this year . . . relatively inexpensive and easy to do. Good luck!

Ottawa · 07-07-2010, 08:26 AM

I would also look at the converter. My 1999 converter finally crapped out this spring, after I took it our of storage. In my case nothing worked. Replaced it with a 50 amp converter and it works fine.

TandW · 07-07-2010, 08:29 AM

The OP states AC is not working.

Ken-55 · 07-08-2010, 08:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TandW

The OP states AC is not working.

Ahhh! . . . but does he mean the 110v alternating current or the air conditioning?

bigskymt · 07-08-2010, 08:32 AM

If none of your 110 vac appliances or outlets work its a good place to start. Try starting the gen. if the A/C etc. works from gen. it could be the switching contactor that switches from shore power to gen. output or 110 vac input from the shore panel.
If you have no power from gen. either you'll have to start measuring from the source forward.

TandW · 07-08-2010, 08:34 AM

Sorry, but the OP mentions both Shore Power and AC. Good luck!!

"007" · 07-08-2010, 08:40 AM

I agree with Ken & Bigsky he's lost his 110, needs to check 110 supply,circuit breaker in load center, outlet for converter where is it.
His transfer switch could have dirty contacts on the relay, should start Gen and see if he gets power and converter works from its 110 outlet with Gen working.
Need to start coach engine for starting Gen because house batteries probably can't.
Once Gen going shut off engine of coach.
Refridgerator needs the 12v for control board to work either off converter or 12v house batteries. May have to charge house batteries with a 12v battery charger.
Has to get fixed, fridge going to take a day to cool down or delayed trip to FL.

TQ60 · 07-08-2010, 08:31 PM

Get a voltmeter, a few bucks at harbor Freight or Radio shack.

Divide and defeat is a troubleshooting term, divide the system into 2 parts, make a mesurement to determine which way to go, continue until fault located, repair.

Start it shore line connection, is it you are the pedestal?

Next check the load center, open the panel and measure the connections to the breakers.

If breakers hot then go to appliance, if dead go towards shore line, if you transfer switch is between the shore line and the load center then you may have a contactor that is not seated.

The contactor (switching device) is normally resting in the shore line position and activates in the generator mode, the contactor may not have closed properly the last time you had the generator running, the voltmeter will show exactly where the power stops.

nanor · 09-13-2010, 09:35 PM

Having similar problem. No power to any of my receptacles. If there is no power to the 30 amp breaker in the control panel for the inverter, would that prevent my receptacles from working?

GaryKD · 09-14-2010, 07:19 AM

Hi nanor,

If the circuits in questions are powered by your inverter the answer is yes. It matters not if you are on shore power or battery power. No power to the inverter means no power to outlets powered by the inverter.

Gary RVRoamer · 09-14-2010, 07:21 AM

Yes it will - none of the outlets that are powered through the inverter would work in that case.

wa8yxm · 09-14-2010, 10:57 AM

By AC do you mean 120vac (Alternating Current) outlets or do you mean A/C (Air Conditioning)

In either case this sounds like a 120 volt issue, not a 12 volt issue.

I have found MANY Rvers have a few screws loose.

Here is the test program You will need a test light (Drop cord will do for the first step) or other device which can test the park outlet.. Also a how ever many to 15 amp outlet.. A digital volt meter, not a bad investment. (One of these days I'm going to build a break-out box I have some of the parts now)

NOTE: this is easier on a 30 amp outlet

30 amp: Plug in a 30 to 15 adapter, plug drop cord or other 50-100 watt light into outlet and see if it works.. NO LIGHT: Problem found. No power at outlet.

LIGHT.. Ok, Put that stuff away and go to "NEXT"

50 amp.. This time you are going to have to use a volt meter (We need it in next anyway) this is not as good.. I would start by using a 50-30 and 30-15 and lamp as above (this tests one leg under load) but using the voltmeter set to a range (if needed) that can take 130 volts measure from the CENTER flat blade to either side. Should see about 115-125 volts. Exact voltage not important.

Measure center to round/U-shaped opening, should be ZERO.

NEXT:

Without plugging in the motor home.. Go to the main breaker box.. Open it and look around.. Grab the proper screwdriver and tighten EVERY SCREW IN SIGHT and if you can find a few hidden screws.. Tighten them too. Some of mine were very very very loose (Recall I said "A few screws loose.. These are the screws)

Now, Plug in, CAREFULLY measure from the white bus bar to the main breaker (30 amp) or both of the main breakers (50 amps) the screw with the wire... Again, should be 115-125.. Got it, good.

Now keeping one probe on the white bus.. Check each of the breakers All should show 115-125 (or whatever you had back at the post)

Possible other loose screws include.

Power inlet (if exist) Power cord plug (if not welded on) and outlet (IF Marineco) ATS if exists, and of course any other connection.

IF You have an EMS. and your 12 volt batteries are dead, it might be disconnecting you as well. (NOTE: MIGHT)

But I'd make sure you have 120vac to the converter 1st.. If not 120 fix that.