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Old 08-27-2012, 11:08 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by pkmesser
Fiber is added at the batch plant. They will have plastic bags of it, that are weighed out. Then so many pounds per yard. 3-5 lbs per yard, depending on the type of fiber they use. There are a lot of different types. They throw it into the batch truck as it is mixing.
A vapor barrier under the concrete is good if you have high alk soil. Otherwise when the ground is wet underneath, alklalies will leach up through the concrete, and show up as somthing akin to spider webs on the surface. Not particularily damageing, just looks bad. the vapor barrier helps prevent drying shrinkage cracking. These are the cracks that show up in the first 48 hours. If concrete is installed properly, it doesn't happen. Use a sprinker on a hose to keep the surface damp that first 48 hours also, especially in warm weather.
Don't let them substitue fly ash for cement. Only very slightly cheaper on your price, and does not have as much strength. Ask if they have reactive aggregate, if so, adding the flyash is beneficial. but add, don't substitute. You will loose strength if you substitute.
Concrete can take up to 21 days to reach its full strength. Keeping the pad damp during that time can help a lot. Water several times a day especially if it's hot and in the sun.

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Old 08-27-2012, 11:43 AM   #16
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My pad is 30' X 12' X 4" 4000 psi concrete/fiber added on an 8" class A base of gravel. It has been in place now for four years and has never moved or cracked. Because my MH overhangs the pad on the rear I layed down some patio pavers to keep the moisture away. The pad makes an awesome surface for doing your own maintenance.
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