Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > Class A Motorhome Discussions
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 08-24-2012, 03:36 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 298
MH Pad

I'm not sure if this is the correct place for this post so if not please move it.

We are getting ready to build a concrete pad on which to park our 33 ft class A, weight, 21,000 pound MH. I'm guessing that a 6-8 inch thickness should be sufficient but not sure if that is enough for the jacks. Also, to save some $, the pad will only be under the tire and jack area. I know there needs to be a moisture barrier and will place a thick rubber liner between the pad and the tires.

Suggestions and comments appreciated.

Thanks,
RJ
__________________

__________________
RJEV is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 08-24-2012, 04:55 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 228
Even more than the thickness, I would be concerned with the base under the concrete, plus add fibers to the concrete. If you have a real solid, well-compacted base, I bet 4" of concrete would be plenty.
__________________

__________________
Duncan, 2012 Itasca Ellipse 42QD
2014 Honda CRV, wife and cat
Florida and South Carolina
mgtr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2012, 05:15 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
pkmesser's Avatar
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Tehachapi, Ca
Posts: 549
Ditto the above, run of the mill concrete will be 4000 psi at 28 days. If the base is good, you will be fine. I would suggest waiting for 7 days before parking on it. You will have a minimum of 60% strength in 7 days.
Note, I was QC Manager for a cement plant for 22 years. (the concrete batch plant guys came to me for the answers).
__________________
PKMesser
2005 KSCA 3778 on 04 W22
pkmesser is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2012, 05:59 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
clyon51's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Arizona West RV Park, Yuma, Az
Posts: 4,113
Ditto on everything so far. I've been parking my 34 footer on my 4" thick driveway (with fibers) for some time with no issues, even with jacks down. The main thing is a good solid hard packed base.

As an aside, I've always poured concrete on top of visqueen to keep the concrete from wicking up moisture from the ground. This is of course in under roof pours. If you are worried about excessive moisture, it certainly wouldn't hurt to do this on your pad.
__________________
John & Clare Lyon
2007 43.5' Monaco Dynasty Palace III (All Electric)
Towd: 2011 Chevy Equinox
clyon51 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2012, 06:15 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Lued's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 483
Ditto I have a 40 ft Monaco sitting on 4" with fiber, all is good.
__________________
2001 Monaco Diplomat 8.3 40ft, 1999 Jeep Cherokee
IA summers, Parker Dam CA winters.
Lued is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2012, 07:11 PM   #6
Community Administrator
 
JohnRR's Avatar


 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Marquette, Michigan "Da UP"
Posts: 16,939
Quote:
Originally Posted by RJEV View Post
Also, to save some $, the pad will only be under the tire and jack area.
RJ
Just be sure you've thought that idea out for the future.
__________________
John & Cathy R.
06 Pace Arrow 38L W24
08 14 Lincoln MKX AWD
See My RV Upgrades
JohnRR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2012, 07:16 PM   #7
Community Moderator
 
bdickson's Avatar


 
Thor Owners Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Wherever the rig is parked
Posts: 7,401
Quote:
Originally Posted by RJEV View Post
Also, to save some $, the pad will only be under the tire and jack area.
RJ
I'm guessing the additional complexity of the framing for the concrete pour will cancel out the saving in materials. Also, if you ever plan on getting under the coach to do any maintenance, you'll regret having only a partial slab.
__________________
Bruce Dickson 2013 Thor Challenger 37GT, 5 Star Tune, Safe-T-Plus Steering Control with Air Trim, Roadmaster front and rear Sway Bars, SuperSteer rear Track Bar, Crossfires, 2012 Honda CRV on Blue Ox Aventa LX tow bar. Full timers since Jan 2012.
bdickson is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2012, 07:25 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Cougarkid's Avatar
 
Freightliner Owners Club
Overland Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Mid-Missouri
Posts: 620
Something else to consider is moisture under the whole rig. Wet (moist) ground under the parked RV will contribute to rust on the underside.

I realize concrete is not cheap. Maybe a poly vapor barrier covered with gravel under the whole coach. Keep that moisture away.
__________________
Mike and Carla
1998 42' Overland Larado Diesel Pusher
On the road - here and there - Full Timing
Cougarkid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2012, 08:34 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Tha_Rooster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Georgia
Posts: 4,507
It sounds like your going to pour 4 big square blocks of concrete interesting. How about 6 or 8 inch strips were you drive and the rest 4 inches. Remember cement trucks carry a minimum of so many yards or you will pay extra so it my pay off to use a cement truck load.
__________________
2007 Fleetwood Revolution LE 40V
Tha_Rooster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2012, 07:05 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 228
Very good point ! 30' x 9' x 4" comes out to almost exactly 10 yards, which, by chance, is just what a concrete truck carries!
__________________
Duncan, 2012 Itasca Ellipse 42QD
2014 Honda CRV, wife and cat
Florida and South Carolina
mgtr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2012, 09:39 AM   #11
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 298
Thanks for all the good info. The addition of fibers is something new to me. Is this added at the mixing stage? Can the fibers be purchased at Lowes or Home Depot?

Thanks again
RJ
__________________
RJEV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2012, 10:42 AM   #12
Senior Member
 
vsheetz's Avatar


 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 11,773
Consider a compacted DG (decomposed granite) pad. My 100' driveway to a workshop on the rear of our property is of DG and is where our coach parks.

As for the concrete and smaller jobs, there are concrete trailers available with ~2 yard max capacity. A local equipment rental place nearby to me has them.
__________________
Vince and Susan
2011 Tiffin Phaeton 40QTH (Cummins ISC/Freightliner)
Flat towing a modified 2005 Jeep (Rubicon Wrangler)
Previously a 2002 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 37A and a 1995 Safari Trek 2830.
vsheetz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2012, 11:20 AM   #13
Senior Member
 
BFlinn181's Avatar
 
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 16,208
Seems to me by the time you dig, fill, compact to make 4 separate forms, rent the mixer, etc. It might be wiser to make one large form for the whole parking spot and buy a properly mixed load of concrete with fibers. You'll have a flat surface to roll around on for maintenance, and it will be more valuable when your property is sold. In addition, 4 slabs will have 16 corners that could crack or break off, while one slab only has 4.
__________________

Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
BFlinn181 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2012, 05:44 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
pkmesser's Avatar
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Tehachapi, Ca
Posts: 549
Quote:
Originally Posted by RJEV View Post
Thanks for all the good info. The addition of fibers is something new to me. Is this added at the mixing stage? Can the fibers be purchased at Lowes or Home Depot?

Thanks again
RJ
Fiber is added at the batch plant. They will have plastic bags of it, that are weighed out. Then so many pounds per yard. 3-5 lbs per yard, depending on the type of fiber they use. There are a lot of different types. They throw it into the batch truck as it is mixing.
A vapor barrier under the concrete is good if you have high alk soil. Otherwise when the ground is wet underneath, alklalies will leach up through the concrete, and show up as somthing akin to spider webs on the surface. Not particularily damageing, just looks bad. the vapor barrier helps prevent drying shrinkage cracking. These are the cracks that show up in the first 48 hours. If concrete is installed properly, it doesn't happen. Use a sprinker on a hose to keep the surface damp that first 48 hours also, especially in warm weather.
Don't let them substitue fly ash for cement. Only very slightly cheaper on your price, and does not have as much strength. Ask if they have reactive aggregate, if so, adding the flyash is beneficial. but add, don't substitute. You will loose strength if you substitute.
__________________

__________________
PKMesser
2005 KSCA 3778 on 04 W22
pkmesser is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:10 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.