Michelin blow out

[marjoa]

Originally Posted by Darwin

I had gone on line and watched the U tube video on how to react. I was lucky to steer straight I did not let up on the gas pedal and did not put on brakes, it went straight and I coasted to a stop with no problems.

So for you it looks like the video did help you in a safe landing. Awesome.

For me...after everything I've read & watched, IMO, I think—in most cases—the worst thing you could do is hit the brake.

[twogypsies]

[QUOTE=Cat320;3331305][QUOTE=Smitty77;3331132]....I feel it is important for everyone to post their opinions, but these are the kinds of opinions that could effect how someone responds during and emergency - so voicing these opinions with a bit of caution, is I feel prudent...

For sure, that's why I made my post. My post tells what exactly happened to my coach and exactly how I handled it...successfully. My post was real, the Michelin video is a movie made for TV.

The OP voiced his experience and opinion, also.

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by Darwin

I took the tire to my local dealer who installed the tires. They say it was caused by impact. I ask if he saw any marks on the tire, answer was no, it could have happened some time ago. I am the only driver and I have not hit anything. I have not been please with the Michelin tires from day one. I went back to the dealer three time because of out of balance. They installed equal and later balanced the front tires with weights but I always had an imbalance.
After replacing the tire that blew out the ride is better. Michelin tires are more expensive and my goal was spend more and get trouble free tires. Not sure if the extra money was well spent. I did check the tires, pressure and visually, just before leaving home on about a week before the failure.

A bad ride after balancing probably means out of round. Visual check of tire pressure can be off by 20 to 50 %. You should be running a TPMS which would warn you of air loss. Even checking pressure each morning only means the tire has air at the time you chaecked. Even the act of checking can leave the valve core leaking and tire can fail hours or days later depending on rate of leak and your driving.

Sidewall zipper is almost 100% certain from sidewall flexinig which can come from run low or impact damage which can break a couple cords. Have no idea how someone could properly inspect a tire for damage after it failed unless it was never driven on after the impact.

[Pexring]

Just over a year ago I put Firestone's on my rig and have had zero complaints.

[Tireman9]

The key point is to not stomp on the brakes which is the normal reaction for most drivers that have never though of what can happen.

I have see videos of direct comparison of hitting the brakes vs not hitting the brakes and in the case of the SUV being tested hitting the brakes results in roll over many times.

I would thing the idea of suggesting you hit the throttle it to ensure you don't stab the brakes.

Do you really think Michelin and RVIA and RVSEF and the other organizations would publish a video with wrong info in it? Yes you may have avoided problems and didn't hit the gas but that is the main point.

[8TiresRollin]

Just had my 2008 Dutch Star in for service at the original dealer for it. They set pressures at 120 front/85/75. Based on this the OPs tires were too low pressure. Mine are Michlin XRVs 8 years old and cecked to be perfect. Coach was always stored inside and wheels were covered when camped. However, my purchase negotiations included a new set of tires discount so I am buying Goodyears. Not risking running the XRVs anymore.

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by 8TiresRollin

Just had my 2008 Dutch Star in for service at the original dealer for it. They set pressures at 120 front/85/75. Based on this the OPs tires were too low pressure. Mine are Michlin XRVs 8 years old and cecked to be perfect. Coach was always stored inside and wheels were covered when camped. However, my purchase negotiations included a new set of tires discount so I am buying Goodyears. Not risking running the XRVs anymore.

OK but is is always best to get your RV weighed so you know the minimum inflation needed based on the stuff YOU carry not based on the guess from the factory or from previous owner.
I have numerous posts on my blog on weight and inflation pressure.

[bob spillers]

what year was the tire according to the D O T date .i have seen new tires for sale with a MFdate 5 years earlier. the older Michelin tires did have a side wall problem i had two blow outs on the rear in one trip. but the new and improved M H Michelin tire is supposed to have had that issue corrected

[Darwin]

I went through FMCA Michelin Advantage program when I purchased the tires.
Manuf. date 1613 or 16th wk of 2013. I contacted Michelin and was instructed to take the tire back to the selling dealer, which have done. I am waiting to hear back form Michelin. Selling dealer was unable to contact Michelin while I was there.

[RELHUB]

Originally Posted by marjoa

Accelerating is the way they teach 18 wheeler drivers to avoid a catastrophe. They actually place wireless charges on the side wall of tires and then detonate remotely to teach them how to recover. When you have a front tire blow out, the inertia of the rig tends to make the front end dive down and to the side. Accelerating is not going to make you go faster. You have a blow out. By accelerating, it throws that inertia to the back of the rig and off the front to allow you to gain control and then easing off the accelerator slowly to safety. That's always been my understanding and reasoning for accelerating.

I agree with you .....Correct response is to keep pressing on gas until you gain full control but other will always disagree. This is what Big Rig drivers are taught. Once that tires blows you will slow down way too FAST unless you keep on the GO PEDLE.

[Mr_D]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

OK but is is always best to get your RV weighed so you know the minimum inflation needed based on the stuff YOU carry not based on the guess from the factory or from previous owner.
I have numerous posts on my blog on weight and inflation pressure.

My owners manual says:

Tire Industry Changes
The tire industry, as a whole, has changed its traditional stance on adjusting cold tire inflation pressure for RV tires installed on recreational vehicles and busses. Previously, tire manufacturers supported a policy where tire inflation could be adjusted according to the actual loaded weight of the vehicle. Now, the major tire manufacturers recommend that medium duty truck tires be maintained at the pressure that corresponds to the Gross Axle Weight Rating for the axle to which they are mounted. To make this recommendation uniform across the industry, tire manufacturers strongly urge the consumer to keep all tires inflated to the pressures recorded on the Federal Tire Label.

Tire Inflation
Country Coach recommends that the cold tire inflation pressures should at all times be maintained at the inflation pressure(s) recorded on the Federal Tire Label. There are no acceptable circumstances where tire inflation pressure(s) should be reduced below that pressure recorded on the Federal Tire Label.

Which is what Les Schwab set the tires at last week when I got 8 new tires.
Strange because even the tire manufacturers (except Toyo) say to go by the weight/inflation charts.

[Cat320]

Originally Posted by RELHUB

I agree with you .....Correct response is to keep pressing on gas until you gain full control but other will always disagree. This is what Big Rig drivers are taught. Once that tires blows you will slow down way too FAST unless you keep on the GO PEDLE.

Sounds good...for an 18 wheeler with a huge heavy engine up front. Not so good for a MH with a rear engine. On my RF blowout, I immediately tapped the cruise off, did not brake, and coasted to the side of the road. There was no ''control'' issue.

[Cloud Dancer]

After a lifetime of experience, and after keeping up with all the tire-blowout videos and reading all the posts(for many years), it is more than obvious that the most important thing is to NOT be STARTLED just because a front tire suddenly fails. If you're not startled, you don't panic. You do nothing but simply/automatically steer away from the adverse yaw, and stay in your lane. The rest is a piece of cake.
What I see in the videos where the driver loses control,.... is that the driver panics and freezes, and does not even steer away from the adverse yawing effect. And, he probably aggravates the situation by hitting the brakes, which helps put him in the grass/ditch or guard rail. So, how do you help a driver that does that?

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by Mr_D

My owners manual says:
Which is what Les Schwab set the tires at last week when I got 8 new tires.
Strange because even the tire manufacturers (except Toyo) say to go by the weight/inflation charts.

Need to be careful with some older publications. Some tire companies stopped selling tires to Country Coach due to low PSI suggestions. I understand Toyo officially exited the RV market because of a tire failure and wrongful death lawsuit where tire had lower psi setting than Toyo wanted.

Labels are based on estimates on the load the RV owner would actually carry and many times (over 50%) RVs have a tire or axle or both in overload when actually measured.