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Old 11-03-2013, 06:24 PM   #85
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Originally Posted by dennis45 View Post
Point of interest,
What you removed with the Turkey blaster was not Water. What you removed was Electrolyte or H2S04. The Electrolyte turns to water when the battery is discharged and the Sulphur, S04, is absorbed by the Lead, PB, in the plates to become Lead Sulphate, PBS04.
The Water, H20 remains. This is why a discharged battery will freeze.
Now, when the charger is connected, the current drives the Sulphur out of the Lead and back into the Water to again become Electrolyte.
During the charging process, the Water Vaporizes to a degree depending on the charge rate and some of this vapour escapes out the top through the vented caps.
This is why we need to add Distilled Water to the battery to replace the water that was expelled during the charge process. The higher the charge rate, the more water is expelled.
If you have been adding water more than once or twice a year, you should check the battery voltage. It should not be higher than 13.6 - 13.7 VDC. If it is, that is the reason you are having to add water more often.
Merely putting Mineral Oil in the batteries is not the answer. Confirm the proper charge rate in addition to adding Mineral Oil.
And, the oil should be added when the Electrolyte level drops and then top off to the proper level with Distilled Water. Drawing off Electrolyte to make room for the Mineral Oil is not a good idea since it will dilute the Electrolyte and that is a whole other story.
dennis45 ... very informative. I can tell this is not your first rodeo when it comes to batteries. I understand what you are saying about the removing the Electrolyte. It's too late for me ... but the good news is that when I was done with all eight (8) batteries I did not that that much left over, so I guess I was low to begin with. Will check the battery voltage to see if it is within the range you mentioned.

So based on your knowledge, does adding mineral oil really help in any way? Based on the reading I did of the previous forum postings, it seemed to be a good thing?

Steve
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Old 11-03-2013, 08:40 PM   #86
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I live in AZ, and this summer, temps got over 115°. I only had to add water once. It works and no splatter around the caps.
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Old 11-04-2013, 08:23 AM   #87
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Dennis45,
I have nothing aganist mineral oil in batteries and have done it on my previous set of four-6V bats. On my new set of bats I have installed the Pro-Fil system, do you believe this method of refilling bats with dist H2O is equal, perhaps better in some ways, for battery life and proper replacement of electrolyes than MO? bill
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Old 11-04-2013, 09:32 AM   #88
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To find out more about mineral oil in batteries look up Edison and his use of it. Here is one interesting site: antique battery oil bottle info wanted? | Antique Bottles and Bottle Collecting

I agree with not removing electrolyte. Simply add enough mineral oil to cover the surface. It acts like plastic wrap on a bowl of food.
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Old 11-04-2013, 09:35 AM   #89
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I read on Wackpedia about mineral oil. It is a pure petrolium distillate. Good for many uses. I have a machineshop and would like to buy it in volume. Say a gallon or 5 gallons. Anyone know where I could buy it in these volumes at reasonable costs?
Here is one place: Search Mineral Oil - Grainger Industrial Supply
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Old 11-04-2013, 09:57 AM   #90
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Dennis45,
I have nothing aganist mineral oil in batteries and have done it on my previous set of four-6V bats. On my new set of bats I have installed the Pro-Fil system, do you believe this method of refilling bats with dist H2O is equal, perhaps better in some ways, for battery life and proper replacement of electrolyes than MO? bill
Hi Bill,
Nothing against the Pro-Fil but as you are aware, adding mineral oil reduces the amount of water required (if the charge rate is good) and keeps the tops and cable connections cleaner. IMOP, for the difference in cost (mineral oil at WM less than $10) and reduced maintenance, I prefer the mineral oil route.
As far as battery life, good maintenance such as clean connections, proper Electrolyte levels and proper charge rate are the #1 factors for extended battery life.
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Old 11-09-2013, 02:59 PM   #91
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Add me to the list of folks that have done this... mineral oil at Wal-Mart... All went great and I used the opportunity to clean up my battery compartment and all cable ends. Steve
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Originally Posted by dennis45 View Post
Hi Bill, Nothing against the Pro-Fil but as you are aware, adding mineral oil reduces the amount of water required (if the charge rate is good) and keeps the tops and cable connections cleaner... I prefer the mineral oil route...
I have a Pro-Fill system installed by the previous owner that I'm about to de-install as part of a larger exercise. Some of you may recall that I posted some weeks ago about extensive corrosion starting in my battery compartment, which also froze the release latch on my battery tray, making it impossible to address the problem. I've concluded the culprit was overflow, which I admit has occurred a couple of times during watering. The Pro-Fill valves are supposed to prevent this, but they did not, so I'm going back to the simplicity that works.

Its taken some time for me to get around to this project, but within the next week there will be a total disconnect, removal and cleaning, repainting, and spray truck-bed lining in the battery slide drawer (unless I stumble upon a perfectly sized rubber/plastic tray), followed by addition of mineral oil and reinstall. Is it possible to keep the coach powered with the batteries removed?

I'll try to provide pics, both before (Eewwwww!) and after (Aaahhhhh!).

Also, question regarding charge voltage: My monitor consistently shows a charge voltage of 13.8. Is this really too high? Would that extra .1v or .2v be a significant problem? And if so, where and how is it adjusted? Thanks!
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Old 11-09-2013, 03:11 PM   #92
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Here are two pictures of my batteries after four years with mineral oil in them and NEVER having been cleaned. They lasted one month short of 10 years and even then were doing fine, just that we were headed out on a trip and I didn't want trouble on the road. Batteries were OEM in 2002, oil was added in 2004 and pictures were taken in 2008.
Mr D, even in the absence of other issues, my batteries get filthy on the road just from the accumulated road grit and dust. How do yours stay so clean? We have essentially the same coach, so I presume your battery compartment is behind the RR wheel, and open below for ventilation. Enquiring minds want to know......
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Old 11-09-2013, 03:38 PM   #93
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I have a Pro-Fill system installed by the previous owner that I'm about to de-install as part of a larger exercise. Some of you may recall that I posted some weeks ago about extensive corrosion starting in my battery compartment.... I've concluded the culprit was overflow, which I admit has occurred a couple of times during watering. The Pro-Fill valves are supposed to prevent this, but they did not, so I'm going back to the simplicity that works...

And..... I've just found the answer, poking through another thread here called "Batteries". Apparently the new Interstate XHD house batteries I installed last year are not compatible with any available single point watering system. Overflow and flooding guaranteed.

Once again, this forum astounds me!
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Old 11-09-2013, 04:53 PM   #94
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I have a Pro-Fill system installed by the previous owner that I'm about to de-install as part of a larger exercise. Some of you may recall that I posted some weeks ago about extensive corrosion starting in my battery compartment, which also froze the release latch on my battery tray, making it impossible to address the problem. I've concluded the culprit was overflow, which I admit has occurred a couple of times during watering. The Pro-Fill valves are supposed to prevent this, but they did not, so I'm going back to the simplicity that works. Its taken some time for me to get around to this project, but within the next week there will be a total disconnect, removal and cleaning, repainting, and spray truck-bed lining in the battery slide drawer (unless I stumble upon a perfectly sized rubber/plastic tray), followed by addition of mineral oil and reinstall. Is it possible to keep the coach powered with the batteries removed? I'll try to provide pics, both before (Eewwwww!) and after (Aaahhhhh!). Also, question regarding charge voltage: My monitor consistently shows a charge voltage of 13.8. Is this really too high? Would that extra .1v or .2v be a significant problem? And if so, where and how is it adjusted? Thanks!
Depends on the temperature you charge at. In cold temps (eg 50F) you are about right. Higher temps call for lower voltage.

http://www.tekrispower.com/pdfs/xant...20Charging.pdf
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Old 11-09-2013, 04:56 PM   #95
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I had one of these over-fill a cell. Just kept gurgling and didn't shut off, but only on one cell. Must have had it tilted wrong.

Basement Watchdog 64 oz. Black Battery Filler Bottle-BFB at The Home Depot
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Old 04-19-2014, 12:01 PM   #96
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Here is a cut & paste from the FMCA web site regarding mineral oil in batteries.

Just another persons point of view.

Dr4Fim ----- Richard


With the kind of batteries I run in my motorhome (six house batteries), and no automatic water refill system, keeping water in them at the right level can sometimes be iffy if I forget to check them. It was suggested that I put approximately 3 ounces of mineral oil in each cell (once the water level is low enough in them). The idea is that the oil, which is going to float on the water, will help decrease water evaporation, because it basically “seals” the water from being able to rise above this oil. Is there any truth to this? As stated, I am aware that oil will float on water, so it sounds logical, but I think that your experiences may be a bit more tested.

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This was the first time I’d ever heard of this suggestion, so I forwarded your question to Bill Hendrix and also went looking for some information on the Internet. What I gleaned from a pair of Web sources is that this is NOT a good idea! Several reasons for not using this process were given, including the oil becoming too well mixed with the electrolyte and coating the batteries’ plates, overfilling the cells, and others.

The following is Bill’s answer, and I agree with him.

“I have not heard of this, and I am sure that if you ask a battery manufacturer they would tell you not to do this. The fluid in the battery is not water; it is electrolyte — sulfuric acid and water — and acid will react with the oil, causing it to oxidize.”

I wouldn't add mineral oil to MY batteries. A better suggestion would be to replace your current batteries with maintenance-free batteries or glass-mat batteries so that you wouldn't have to worry about adding distilled water in the future.
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Old 04-19-2014, 12:18 PM   #97
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I wouldn't take the word of a battery manufacturer or someone who has never heard of it. I have also not heard of anyone having a problem with adding mineral oil to their batteries. If you look hard enough on the internet, you will find the answer you want.
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Old 04-19-2014, 01:27 PM   #98
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I wouldn't take the word of a battery manufacturer
Excuse?
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