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Old 08-14-2011, 04:47 PM   #1
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Miracle rust remover

Here in Houston, the weather is Hot and humid, with emphasis on the HOT AND HUMID part.

Many of my best tools have rusted in my garage and I went on a personal quest to find a rust remover that actually worked.

I bought some stuff from Ace Hardware (green in an opaque spray bottle) that worked pretty well, but burned my skin if the mist was blown back.

Then I tried some Rust Remover from Griots Garage. This stuff really works. Really. It comes as a liquid and gel. It is biodegradable, non toxic, doesn't burn your skin, and washes of with water after the rust is dissolved. More, it works without any work from you! Spray it on, leave it alone for 24 hours (if badly rusted), wash it off.

My son-in-law said, "yeah, you can get the same result soaking the parts in Muriatic acid," which may be true if you want to also MELT YOUR SKIN OFF and BURN YOUR LUNGS OUT!!!

I'm sure there is other stuff out there, but I was so surprised to find something that actually works that I had to tell you about it. Warning: about $40 bucks a gallon.
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Old 08-14-2011, 08:11 PM   #2
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Naval Jelly comes to mind. It eats the rust and causes that rust to turn into something else.. forget what it is.. but it then becomes a protectant. It's made for steel and aluminum.. probably for other metals as well. I like it. I have no idea what it does to chrome that has pitting... but, plain steel or iron.. does a good job. The job is much quicker and cleaner if you can scrape and/or wire wheel the majority off.

I've applied it with a paint brush. It's a gel. I've gotten it on me with no ill effects. For steel/iron, the main ingredient is phosphoric acid. It's not terribly harsh to hands.. but, I'd guess wearing rubber gloves would be more logical than what I typically do.
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Old 08-14-2011, 08:16 PM   #3
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x2 on Naval Jelly.

No! Doesn't come from the belly button area. Can be found at most Auto Stores.
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Old 08-14-2011, 08:24 PM   #4
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Rust is Fe203, the phosphoric acid converts it to Fe304, which is kinda dark gray in color, and does not spread like Fe203, and it does make a coating that stops further rust. many years ago I got some, but used it all up, did not know that naval jelly had it in it. Thanks for that good info.

I had an 83 Pace Arrow, that was originally purchased in the midwest, and had a lot of rust started underneath from the salt. I used the material I had on it, and had the MH another 11-12 years, and that coating that formed was still in great shape!
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Old 08-21-2011, 07:07 PM   #5
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I've used a Loctite product called Extends (no not the stuff that Jimmy Johnson advertises) on my storage bays. Worked great! you can get it at Ace Hardware.
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Old 08-21-2011, 07:29 PM   #6
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The stuff from Eastwood co. works wonders. Back in the day i bought a 5 gallon bucket and hung parts on strings they came out looking like they where sand blasted. I haven't tried the gel yet.

Eastwood's Rust Dissolver


I looked as some same type of stuff at the hardware store today for about $30 a gallon
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Old 08-26-2011, 06:16 PM   #7
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The Loctite is 754 Extend Rust Treatment.
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Old 08-27-2011, 06:48 PM   #8
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again a simple issue becomes way overly complicated. just go to lowes or wherever and pick a up an inexpensive product called 'barkeeper's friend.' problem solved. case closed. a few bucks and some shop rags and you're done.
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Old 08-28-2011, 02:26 AM   #9
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An indoor cleanser isn't going to touch real rust. You can't scrub 40 years of rust off an exaust header.
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Old 08-28-2011, 02:52 PM   #10
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"Must for Rust"! Available at Home improvement stores. Spray removes rust and leave a coating that is supposed to last a year. It works!
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Old 08-28-2011, 03:25 PM   #11
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Per Barkeeper's Friend:

Phosphoric and muriatic acids are rust "removers" (really converters, I think), but Barkeeper's friend is mostly oxalic acid. I've never found it to be effective against rust. It's really more of a bleaching agent, used a lot for lightening woods.
It does have fine abrasives in it, though- scrubbing with the rags probably takes light rust off...
Some folks use it on fiberglass, too, again in the misconception that it chemically removes oxidation.
It doesn't.
As with rust, on oxidized fiberglass it's the abrasives that do the removal.

Francesca
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