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Old 01-14-2013, 06:27 PM   #15
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If you hook up the gauges the low side should run between 30 and 35 that means it's cooling good and the problem might be else where, like the water valve. It should cycle and then come back on at around 45. You might already know this but I just thought I would throw it out there. If the pressures are not good could have other issues. Mine works good enough to keep it comfortable up front but won't cool the back, It cools really cold. Good luck Jim
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Old 01-14-2013, 06:49 PM   #16
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You can go to home Depot or Lowes and buy the brass valve and 2 3/4 inch barb fittings for around $22 with hose clamps. It should take you around 20 minutes to install it.
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Old 01-14-2013, 07:21 PM   #17
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My dash AC will cool the coach pretty good with outside ambient temps up to around 90 degrees. And I don't have to run the fan over about speed 2. It is a V10 Ford, but it does have duel pain tinted glass. I don't know why they don't put another unit in the mid coach that runs off the chassis compressor just like I have in my wife's expedition. Simple cheap way to really cool a rig without running the geny.
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Old 01-14-2013, 07:36 PM   #18
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Also, make sure the dust caps are on and tight.

The scheader valves inside never were designed for high pressure, many will lose gas over time.

Most R 134 systems are built to a higher standard, the green folks restricting old R12, those systems leaked bad, new systems have better hoses and seals, so they seldom need much refil unless something is bad like a bad seal or loose cap
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:03 PM   #19
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It could be one of many or even a combination of some but your AC is not normal by a long ways. Can even be a plugged condenser coil in front of the radiator. Or a dirty evaporator core inside the heater AC box. Or a weak compressor. On a 99 model vehicle it's hard to guess. You need a good AC man that can diagnose the whole system top to bottom and it may be a simple, or more complex fix. Good luck.
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:17 PM   #20
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One other thing I forgot to mention was that when I had a gas MH it was cheaper to run the genny than the engine AC. I suffered in MPG worst than when I Ran the genny. My DP it doesn't make that much difference, I guess it's because with the diesel there are a few more idle horses in the barn. Jim
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:48 PM   #21
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Lots of good experience, and advice....

I think for the heck of it, I'll be putting ball-valve(s) in. I'm going to do one to the rear heater box too. They are both easy access (now that I've found them and know which ones are which). One from under the front pass wheel well (for rear heat) and another under the hood (for hvac box).

Of coarse, I'll install the rear's valve by removing the dog house for the best access and to tie it up and secure once done. But ultimately, I want it super convenient to be able to operate the valve. Removing the dog house each time is NOT convenient. So, I can reach in the wheel well (I've got lots of room) and turn the valve for the rear. Opening the hood isn't too convenient either, but it is easier then pulling the dog house back.

I didn't thoroughly check to see if the inline valve was working (by checking heat on the input hose to the hvac box), but it was warm with the knob on full cold (no AC running, just the engine). So I'm sure the valves will help... even if just a little, it's worth the cheap "modification".

Plus my Ford tech will be here Wednesday to put his manifold/gauges on my lines to check'em. Better safe then sorry.

Thanks to all of you for your help!!
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:51 PM   #22
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Had similar problem with our winnebago , ended up changing control panel and check valve . I suspect the $3 check valve was the problem
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Old 01-14-2013, 10:14 PM   #23
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Hmm...
I've not looked too much further yet (I was busy pulling my pop out awnings to have new ones made, and had to be somewhere before they closed), but it looks like my heater check/control valve is vacuum operated. I did check to make sure it had vacuum, and it hissed at me when I removed it... so, that's good (to a point). But, I'm thinking of pulling it to see if it's operational. Again, just because I'm curious and know it's a pretty cheap valve if I find a replacement (similar vehicle valves run $25 to $45).

I'm searching for an example picture (of one on a winnebago), but can't seem to find one.


I'm not sure, but it's probably similar to this one;
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Old 01-14-2013, 10:23 PM   #24
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As an afterthought you may want to check the cable that runs you temperature selector lever to the control valve. I have a 94 Winnebago Adventurer and when we first got it the cold air was just cool when on max air. The problem turned out to be the winding around the control cable was not properly attached to the back of the unit and when we moved the lever the outer casing moved with it and nothing actually changed. I reattached the clamp that held the outer cable and voila I had real cold air. may be worth a look.
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Old 01-14-2013, 10:26 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Possum View Post
As an afterthought you may want to check the cable that runs you temperature selector lever to the control valve. ............
I'm 99.9% sure there's no cable... as I have round knob climate control, which would be all vacuum control. Hence my previous post of the vacuum control valve
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Old 01-14-2013, 10:58 PM   #26
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Oops, missed that sorry.
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Old 01-15-2013, 11:26 AM   #27
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Easy to test, first, it will move when vacuum changes, so did it move when you removed the hose and heard the hiss?

Next, if it moves, set to "cold", then let engine warm up, feel hoses, should not be warm as water should not be flowing.

If okay then set to hot, hose should warm up
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Old 02-07-2013, 02:10 PM   #28
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Hi,
Found a website for the Denso HVAC system.
Its - www.densoheavyduty.com. this is the service manual for
the denso system which is on most Ford & Chev chassis plus some
diesel pushers.
Roy Wohlscheid
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