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Old 10-18-2012, 11:39 PM   #1
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More windsheild leaks!

I've had the windshield sealed, removed and re-installed, re-sealed, and re-sealed again. All in just over a year. So far I've got around $1200 in it.

Yep, you guessed it. Leaking again.

This time I'm going to do it myself. I know I probably should use a urethane adhesive/sealant. Preferably one that flows into the leaking area before it hardens.

Any recommendations?
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Old 10-19-2012, 05:06 AM   #2
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Is your unit creaking alot or flexing because when windows come loose it's the opening is mis cut or front moving more than usual
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Old 10-19-2012, 09:17 AM   #3
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Did you make sure it's not your marker lights that is leaking? Water will run down the inside of the front cap onto the inside top of the windshield appearing to have come from the windshield. Also double check any body seams as well.
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Old 10-19-2012, 10:23 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by PDR John View Post
Did you make sure it's not your marker lights that is leaking? Water will run down the inside of the front cap onto the inside top of the windshield appearing to have come from the windshield. Also double check any body seams as well.
I've checked the marker lights before and found no leaks, but that's no proof that this time it's not them. But if I pour water just above the windshield, just below the marker lights and well away from the nearest body seam I get a nice little stream of water down the inside of the glass.

Our last trip took us over one of the most torn up freeways I know of and I strongly suspect that has something to do with the new leak. Body flex seems to be a problem for most class A rigs.

The previous owner tried to seal it up with silicone. Obviously that didn't work out well.

I was looking more for instruction on which sealer to use and hopefully how to safely remove the rubber gasket so I can get at the actual leak.

Cheers,
MP
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Old 10-19-2012, 10:38 AM   #5
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Just as a quick test to confirm the problem use some duct tape over the top edge. If it doesn't leak you are definitely on to it. Two things from from there. I would install some of the neat little peel and stick gutter stuff that can be curved over the edge to make water run to the sides. The other is some tape I recently bought that is a great substitute for eterna bond. I will get the part number. At this stage some Dicor self leveling stuff might fill the void. Then some of the tape. It is basically clear so is not obtrusive. It can even be painted.

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Old 10-19-2012, 11:00 AM   #6
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http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...cts/three/two/PDF of tape. Looks like I'm at my maximum attachment level. I B Bak.

More than one way to skin a cat. Get er done.
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Old 10-19-2012, 11:17 AM   #7
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I would check the windshield frame for cracks or weakness. Something is moving more than the current sealant can deal with, if you don't have leaks from clearance lights or a miscut glass. Pouring more goop on the problem might hide it, but seldom fixes it.

I once drive a school bus, went around a corner and saw a half inch gap in the windshield corner. Turned out welds had broken in the roof supports and the whole roof was racking as it moved. That one went back to the garage and I used the stand-by until it got repaired.
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:48 PM   #8
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I agree with the racking something is moving alot to break that seal
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Old 10-19-2012, 09:16 PM   #9
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Broken welds etc.

The professionals who removed & re-installed the window checked for structural problems and didn't find any.

Apparently it's just a crappy design.
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Old 10-19-2012, 09:30 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Muddypaws View Post
I've had the windshield sealed, removed and re-installed, re-sealed, and re-sealed again. All in just over a year. So far I've got around $1200 in it.

Yep, you guessed it. Leaking again.

This time I'm going to do it myself. I know I probably should use a urethane adhesive/sealant. Preferably one that flows into the leaking area before it hardens.

Any recommendations?
I faced the same problem a couple of years ago. My problems began when I had the left windshield replaced. The windshields began moving around in the rubber gasket. The left windshield came about 1/8" out of the rubber gasket on the left side. Boy, did that cause a wind whistle! We repaired that one on the road with silicone, which let us enjoy the rest of our trip.

The final diagnosis was that both windshields would have to be removed and reset into the rubber with a urethane sealant. It was going to cost me a lot of money.

Thinking I had nothing to lose, I decided to see if I could caulk the windshields in place. I found that silicone doesn't work, it won't adhere to the rubber gasket. I found a product made by Permatex or Loctite called 'The Right Stuff'.

http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...sket_Maker.htm

It is available in a small tube that fits in a standard caulking gun, and also as a pressurized can. Both work well.

I cleaned the rubber and the windshield with a little acetone. I used masking tape to tape a line on the windshield and the rubber. Using 'The Right Stuff', I made a wide rubber gasket which overlapped onto both the windshield and the rubber about 1/4". I even caulked the windshield to the rubber gasket on the inside where the windshield had slipped 1/8" out of the rubber gasket. In effect, I was making a new rubber gasket in that area. I used my saliva on my pointer finger to smooth my caulking until it looked like a professional rubber gasket.

When I had finished the job, I stood back and looked. It looked very professional. But, as they say, the proof is in the pudding. It's been two years now. We have enjoyed several long trips, and multiple leveling sessions in the process. We have driven in wind and storms that made us wonder if we should be out on the road. Through all that, the windshields have not moved at all! They are rock solid in the rubber gasket. They do not leak, and it looks like they are not going to!

I just inspected that windshield repair, and it looks today exactly the way it did two years ago. So, I recommend you try it for yourself. If it turns out you actually do have structural damage that needs to be repaired, all you're out is a little work and a little bit of caulk.
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