Motorcycle Lift - Hydraulic vs Electric

[thefurman]

Looking to add a motorcycle lift for my 09 Harley Street Glide. Looking for pros & cons for hydraulic (Hydralift) vs. electric (Cruiserlift).

I have a '05 Discovery 39J, 330hp.

Thanks!

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by thefurman

Looking to add a motorcycle lift for my 09 Harley Street Glide. Looking for pros & cons for hydraulic (Hydralift) vs. electric (Cruiserlift).

I have a '05 Discovery 39J, 330hp.

Thanks!

Well Sir,
I've done the Hydralift and, did the install myself. I did the research on all of them and, without a doubt, by far, the Hydralift is the best, most efficient, least amount of moving parts, and most sturdy lift on the market. Really long story short, I set that lift up so:

1. It's lift arms were at the least angle possible when lowered to street level for better and more clearance to bike components as possible.
2. So that entire lift, could be removed in no more than 6 minutes, anytime I wanted to.
3. It was BOLTED on, NOT WELDED. I've been a welder for all of my life and, I could have welded all the attaching components on but, I chose to use remove the factory 10,000 hitch assembly and, utilize the same holes that were used for that assembly, to mount the adapter brackets.

That way, if and when I wanted to remove the lift and all it's components, the factory hitch will bolt right right back on and, there would be no evidence that it was ever there. I have a zillion pictures of the process of mounting it and setting things up. If you'd like, PM me and I'd be glad to assist in your thought process of what you need to think about. Good luck.
Scott

[Bill1374]

I have the Overbilt electric lift on my Tiffin and am quite happy with it. It went to Florida last year with a Road King and came home with a Street Glide. It handles the weight easily and no problem to load.
I'm fortunate to live near the manufacturer so I arranged a factory install, which was estimated at 3 hours. Arrived at 9 am and was out the door before noon. Quality of the install was excellent. I also opted to have the hitch installed to tow my car behind which creates the only slow down. Due to tow height I have to use a drop hitch which has to come off to get the lift on the ground. Adds all of 5 minutes to hook up time.

[DRL1950]

Also have gone with the Overbilt and have never regretted it. The Hydralift is an awesome lift but I just couldn't justify the huge price difference between the two. Overbilt is a great product that I would highly recommend. BTW I am carrying an Ultra Classic Limited which is a heavy bike but lifts it with no problems

[Road Pilot]

I also had an Overbilt lift that was installed at the factory. I had it on a 40' Diplomat and then moved it to a 45' Essex. I carried Electra Glides on it.

I have a friend that has a Hydralift and he carries a Triglide on it. I had the Overbilt for 6 years and had very few issues with it. Putting the bike on the lift and then hooking up the car seem much simpler on the Overbilt. My friend with the Hydralift has to crawl under the lift after he's got the Triglide on it to install his tow bar to the receiver on the coach. I'm not familiar enough with the Hydralift to know if they're all that way.

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by Road Pilot

I also had an Overbilt lift that was installed at the factory. I had it on a 40' Diplomat and then moved it to a 45' Essex. I carried Electra Glides on it.

I have a friend that has a Hydralift and he carries a Triglide on it. I had the Overbilt for 6 years and had very few issues with it. Putting the bike on the lift and then hooking up the car seem much simpler on the Overbilt. My friend with the Hydralift has to crawl under the lift after he's got the Triglide on it to install his tow bar to the receiver on the coach. I'm not familiar enough with the Hydralift to know if they're all that way.

The Hydralift incorporates a built in receiver into its structure. By virtue of it's operation, the platform does come very close to the tip of the receiver. That means yes, the tow bar needes to be removed prior to lowering the bike at the end of the days journey. It's not a big deal but, in todays modern tow bars, many of them STAY on the back of the coach when you're done towing.

And that's fine, IF you're not carrying a motorcycle on the back and have lots of mechanism that travels close entrance to the receiver. This is something that, a Hydralift owner will put up with. I did it for over 8,000 miles of towing etc. You just take that kind of stuff into consideration BEFORE you make the major decision to purchase and install one.
Scott

[Offroading]

I had the hydra lift put on my jayco Seneca 2 years ago. Traveled to California pulling a car and hauling the Harley without a problem. While traveling to Texas last march the lift bounced out of the latch and lowered down on the tow bar bending it. I bought a new one and it worked fine for another trip to Washington. Then the trip to Florida this march it happen again. This time damaging the tow bar, lift ,car, and motorcycle. I call hydra lift and the said there is a upgrade latch for the unit and they is no defect with my unit. They said they are not responsible for any damages and the problem was because of rough roads causing the lift to bounce out of latch. I'll modify the latch myself to safety carrier bike.

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by Offroading

I had the hydra lift put on my jayco Seneca 2 years ago. Traveled to California pulling a car and hauling the Harley without a problem. While traveling to Texas last march the lift bounced out of the latch and lowered down on the tow bar bending it. I bought a new one and it worked fine for another trip to Washington. Then the trip to Florida this march it happen again. This time damaging the tow bar, lift ,car, and motorcycle. I call hydra lift and the said there is a upgrade latch for the unit and they is no defect with my unit. They said they are not responsible for any damages and the problem was because of rough roads causing the lift to bounce out of latch. I'll modify the latch myself to safety carrier bike.

offroading,
As we've carried our GL 1800 Goldwing (right close to 900 lbs) over 8,000 miles and had no real issues with anything like that, can you post some pictures of what "Latch" it bounced out of? There is a safety bar that you must lift, in order to lower the lift. Are you saying it got past that safety bar/latch? If so, that's some serious bouncing.
Scott

[Whlsdn]

Interesting info here. Wish I'd gotten on this board weeks ago. Anyway, I bought a 2016 Itasca Sunstar LX 27N, yeah, one of the short Class A rigs. But my wife and I think it'll be perfect for what we plan. We'll see. I have to say, I didn't research this purchase as thoroughly as I normally do when spending what to me is big money, but I haven't seen a reason to be disappointed yet. Again, we'll see. Now I have another "we'll see." I bought a Hydralift without really checking out the competition - just read a few happy buyer reviews. It gets installed next week. I sure hope I don't have Offroading's experience!

But my real need for advice from the experienced hands is a question of possible suspension upgrades. The Hydralift installer recommended adding Timbren Jounce springs to the rear axle, and I accepted his recommendation, though I wondered if the SumoSprings by Super Springs didn't sound a bit better. But what else should I consider? I think the little Sunstar's ride is a bit mushy as is, and once I add the Hydralift, my Road King, and hook up my 4-door Jeep to tow, I'm wondering if I won't need to beef up with an aftermarket rear sway bar. A steering stabilizer? One by Roadmaster or the pricier item by Blue Ox? Maybe even something like Blue Ox's Trac Bar?

As you can tell, I'm green and ignorant.

[Offroading]

I don't have the rv close by. I'll get pictures later. But the latch sits over the pin and only has to travel up 1 1/2 inch up . I've got 20,000 miles on mine and have in the past put a nylon tie on the latch for backup so it couldn't jump up. Hrdoalift sent me a pressure valve to change that allows the lift to lower on its own when not latched. The old valve held the lift in place when not latched.

[shaman52]

Installed the Cruiserlift last year and tow a Honda CRV behind it. Very easy to use.

Being a camp ground host on a Sturgis route, I talked to bunches of owners of both before I made a decision. I have to admit the engineer in me did lean toward the hydraulics. I asked them how long they had owned their lift and how did they like it. Several demonstrated operation with bike.

Several Hydrolift owners complained about hydraulic leaks, hard to source expensive German components, and one had bending in the middle of the aluminum bike rack. The bent rack owner had a Full Dresser HD about 950 lbs (below factory rating of 1000 lbs.) When when he called the factory about it they said there was nothing they could do. He was not a happy camper.

The Hydrolift owners that had no leaks and problems were happy with their system.

The interesting thing was that I did not run into a single CruiserLift owner that was unhappy, for what my unscientific sample is worth.

Just before I sunk my money I visited the CruiserLift factory in Katy TX. Had a very interesting chat with one of their engineers and the owner. They use a 3-D CAD program called SolidWorks. Same software I used in developing prototypes before I retired. The factory engineer walked me though the model on screen. It looked so familiar. I also asked if he ran a finite element analysis of the steel? He showed me the optional SolidWorks add in. Was very impressed with the engineering behind the CruiserLift and had one installed. Chose Smitty' in Houston TX. 1500 Brittmoore Rd, Houston, TX 77043 Smittys does both Hydrolift and CruiserLift installs and has years of experience.

Looking back I have no regrets about about my decision. The triple receiver welded to my Spartan K2 frame is a very solid mount. Smitty's welder ran some very even deep penetrating beads without under cutting the frame metal. Getting the bike on and off is easy. Lifting and lowering with the plug-in wench switch is flawless. Had to remove the bed section a couple of weeks ago due to RV park slot length. Pulled a few pins and did it by myself. Stuffed the removed lift bed under the rear of my RV with just a little of wheel lock showing. Took about 20 minutes. Next time will be faster.

Good Luck

[vtwinwilly]

I posted this same basic response in an earlier thread on the motorcycle lift subject.

I looked at both the CruiserLift and HydraLift. I really liked the HydraLift system the best, but I opted for the CruiserLift instead.

Why? ....

Well the CruiserLift uses very common components. Pins, bolts, even the ATV winch can be purchased at Walmart or Tractor Supply Co. So if I'm off somewhere remote, I can always purchase the parts needed to get my lift going again (in the event of a failure).

With the HydraLift, if that hydraulic pump fails, I'm kind of hosed. ... and now I'm reading where others are having hydaulic leaks and difficulty sourcing parts. It must be true... I read it on the internet!

Also, the CruiserLift is easier to detach when I don't plan to haul the bike. The HydraLift requires you to disconnect hydraulic lines to remove it, so most folks just leave them on the coach all the time.

Now with all that said, I only carry a KLR on mine and it does bounce around more than I would like. I've grown used to it, but I've not put my 800+lb BMW on it as a result.

Again... the Hydralift is an excellent system and was the one I really liked the best, but when I sat down and thought about it in practical terms, the CruiserLift got the nod. The $1000 difference in price was influential also.

About the only thing I might change on the CruiserLift would be to upgrade the winch with a remote controlled winch where I can operate the up and down with a keyfob.

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by Whlsdn

Interesting info here. Wish I'd gotten on this board weeks ago. Anyway, I bought a 2016 Itasca Sunstar LX 27N, yeah, one of the short Class A rigs. But my wife and I think it'll be perfect for what we plan. We'll see. I have to say, I didn't research this purchase as thoroughly as I normally do when spending what to me is big money, but I haven't seen a reason to be disappointed yet. Again, we'll see. Now I have another "we'll see." I bought a Hydralift without really checking out the competition - just read a few happy buyer reviews. It gets installed next week. I sure hope I don't have Offroading's experience!

But my real need for advice from the experienced hands is a question of possible suspension upgrades. The Hydralift installer recommended adding Timbren Jounce springs to the rear axle, and I accepted his recommendation, though I wondered if the SumoSprings by Super Springs didn't sound a bit better. But what else should I consider? I think the little Sunstar's ride is a bit mushy as is, and once I add the Hydralift, my Road King, and hook up my 4-door Jeep to tow, I'm wondering if I won't need to beef up with an aftermarket rear sway bar. A steering stabilizer? One by Roadmaster or the pricier item by Blue Ox? Maybe even something like Blue Ox's Trac Bar?

As you can tell, I'm green and ignorant.

Whlsdn,
Wow, if I read your post right, you're going to install a Hydralift, on the back of a 27', Class A, GAS COACH? Is that right? Partner, if I read this right, this will be interesting to see the outcome. First off, may I ask, just what is the GAWR of the rear axle on your coach? Second, have you, by any chance, fully loaded that coach, READY FOR A TRIP with full fuel, water, tools, chairs, equipment, camping gear, essentials, people, and whatever else you plan on hauling on a regular basis and, WEIGHED IT?

I'd be very interested in what your actual weight on the rear axle is, fully loaded, ready for a trip, in comparison to what the total weight limit of that axle is. Now, this is not the stated GVWR, etc. that's stated on the tag, next to the driver or, posted any other place in your coach. You need to load that coach, as you would for a trip and, TAKE IT DOWN TO WHERE EVER YOU CHOOSE AND, WEIGH IT.

That's CURB weight. The manufacture of your coach may put what it weighed when it left the factory but, they're not the ones in it now, you are. You're the one who's loaded it for your intentions.

What I'm getting at here with all this is, if I'm not mistaken, you're going to be seriously OVER WEIGHT of that rear axle once the Hydralift and the Harley's loaded. I know all about this stuff 'cause I too was over weight with mine but, there's a monumental difference in your coach and ours. Ours is an '04 Itasca Horizon, 36GD (36') with the C-7 330 HP CAT engine.

I consider my length as the absolute minimum length DIESEL coach that one could install a Hydralift on. Class A gas coaches normally do not have heavy enough chassis's for this kind of application, with very, very few exceptions. And those are the EXTREME Heavy duty chassis types with heavier axles etc. And those still, would be taxed to the extreme with yours and my setup on them.

I know you're intending on installing either aftermarket heavier springs or, adding additional ones but, it's the GAWR of the axle/bearings/brakes/tires/etc. that I'm wondering about. And, one of the issues you more than likely will see that I didn't when I did mine, is some serious lightening up of the front end, once that lift and bike is on there. This is interesting.

So, if you don't mind me asking those questions, I'd really like to know the specs of your coach, GVWR, GAWR of both axles and, the total CURB weight when prepped for a trip.
Scott

[Semtenn]

Looking at purchasing a second hand Overbilt Electric Motorcycle Lift. Couple of things.
A) Is the company still in business? I understand originally, it was a Blue Ox product they spun off to a company in NY. Website and phone is dead.

B) What was the approximate cost of the new Overbilt Electric Motorcycle Lifts?

C) If the company is defunct, is it possible to source parts open source should anything fail?

D) Do all of the Overbilt Motorcycle Lifts require a 3 piece mount into a triple receiver for the coach?