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Old 01-31-2016, 03:26 PM   #1
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Motorcycle tiedown, Class A Toy Hauler

New Outlaw owner here. 2016 37RB.

I skimmed through this thread and had no idea there were so many class A toy hauler options available. All my searches just came up with Thor. Oh well, I believe we made the right choice for us anyway. I did recently look at a canyon star and its nice for sure, but still feel for us we chose right.

2 adults, 2 large 90lb dogs and a Harley.

My question is about wheel chocks for the bike. Ive owned bikes forever but never a trailer. What would you suggest and how easily is it to mount?

Considering the old faithful pingle at this point.
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Old 01-31-2016, 06:02 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarleyOutlaw View Post
New Outlaw owner here. 2016 37RB.

I skimmed through this thread and had no idea there were so many class A toy hauler options available. All my searches just came up with Thor. Oh well, I believe we made the right choice for us anyway. I did recently look at a canyon star and its nice for sure, but still feel for us we chose right.

2 adults, 2 large 90lb dogs and a Harley.

My question is about wheel chocks for the bike. Ive owned bikes forever but never a trailer. What would you suggest and how easily is it to mount?

Considering the old faithful pingle at this point.


http://locknloadwheelchocks.com/

These are what I installed in our CS. There's a flat mounting plate bolted to the floor (through frame for strength), and the chock locks into that so they can easily be removed for when you don't want to be tripping over them. They are a good sturdy chock that you drive into and the back flips up and holds the bike firmly enough to get off and then tie it down with your straps. Holds the bike firmly enough that it takes a good rearward shove to release the front wheel, you may need a hand getting your Harley out, just a push or pull at the start.

Another trick when backing your bike down is to make sure you're in first gear and use both the clutch and front brake to ease the bike down. Depending on how level it is when I'm unloading the ramp can be steep enough that the front brake alone will just skid. But leaving it in gear and just slipping the clutch lets you use it as a back brake and you can walk the bike down as slowly as you want in total control.

Congrats on the new toy hauler, enjoy.
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Old 02-01-2016, 10:45 AM   #3
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On our Outlaw the gas tank is in the center of the garage floor. I originally wanted my chock in the center but finding this I will put it to one side and maybe add another at some point.

Coach is in storage so I can't go crawl under it right now. Does anyone know what might be under there to keep me from drilling straight through the floor and using a mounting plate underneath?
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Old 02-01-2016, 01:22 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarleyOutlaw View Post
On our Outlaw the gas tank is in the center of the garage floor. I originally wanted my chock in the center but finding this I will put it to one side and maybe add another at some point.

Coach is in storage so I can't go crawl under it right now. Does anyone know what might be under there to keep me from drilling straight through the floor and using a mounting plate underneath?
I think every style chock has been used in Outlaws...from bolt-down to the floor (Condors and similar)...to free standing with a big cross bar (we use the one from Harbor Freight).

The floor is a 5/8 marine ply with insulation vacuum-bonded underneath. Bolts can be run through the floor, but access to the underside can be limited. That's why we use the freestanding type...which can then be removed and used outside.

Best luck
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Old 02-01-2016, 07:35 PM   #5
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Based on recommendations from others here, I've also been using the Harbor Freight chocks in my rig. We have two, then string up a couple other dirt bikes free standing. Since the Outlaws have the tie-downs, it's easy to strap them down even without a chock (though we wouldn't do this with street bikes).
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Old 02-02-2016, 03:55 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Scarab0088 View Post
I think every style chock has been used in Outlaws...from bolt-down to the floor (Condors and similar)...to free standing with a big cross bar (we use the one from Harbor Freight).

The floor is a 5/8 marine ply with insulation vacuum-bonded underneath. Bolts can be run through the floor, but access to the underside can be limited. That's why we use the freestanding type...which can then be removed and used outside.

Best luck
I have been under my Outlaw when I was looking at how to place two chocks for two HD dressers. With that size bikes, you need to stagger their placement and even if you could get one bolted from beneath, I think the second would be impossible. I also find it better to remove one of the benches when loading two bikes. I did see a trolly chock at Daytona last year that looked like a good idea. You ride the bike straight on in the middle of the garage and then swing the bike into place.
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Old 02-02-2016, 08:50 AM   #7
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So you guys are saying to get a free standing chock and not mounting it to the floor?

What keeps the chock from scooting around?

By the way my bike is a Harley Roadglide CVO, weighs 950lbs. I don't want that thing moving back there.

Which of these do you suggest?

http://www.harborfreight.com/motorcy...ock-69026.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/1800-lb...ock-61670.html
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Old 02-02-2016, 01:33 PM   #8
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I use one similar to the wide Harbor Freight link you posted above but from Condor. I have the Harbor Freight chock also for when we haul a 3rd dirt bike, but I like the quality of the Condors much better.
We have never bolted ours down.

http://condor-lift.com/pit-stop-trailer-stop
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Old 02-02-2016, 04:06 PM   #9
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I use one similar to the wide Harbor Freight link you posted above but from Condor. I have the Harbor Freight chock also for when we haul a 3rd dirt bike, but I like the quality of the Condors much better.
We have never bolted ours down.

Pit-Stop/Trailer-Stop
OK then........that answers my questions. Thanks.
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Old 02-02-2016, 08:10 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by HarleyOutlaw View Post
So you guys are saying to get a free standing chock and not mounting it to the floor?

What keeps the chock from scooting around?

By the way my bike is a Harley Roadglide CVO, weighs 950lbs. I don't want that thing moving back there.

Which of these do you suggest?

Motorcycle Wheel Chock

1800 Lb Capacity Motorcycle Stand/Wheel Chock
We use the second style HF chock linked above...then the bike is strapped down to E-Track that run the length of the garage floor.
The chock does not move around with the weight of the bike held in place by the straps, because the chock has rubber feet against the rubber floor of the garage.

We would never just use the chock as a tie down point...even if the chock was bolted to the floor for fear of pulling out the chock mounts...bikes are too heavy. We use straps front and rear on the bike.

And, a free standing chock (with a big crossbar) can move outside the RV or into the house's garage. That style is very heavy and holds my full sized Buells very well.

Best luck
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Old 02-03-2016, 12:06 AM   #11
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OK then........that answers my questions. Thanks.
I think you mentioned that you've never trailered a bike before. A couple tips about tying a bike down. Don't fully compress your suspension with your tie downs. You want to snug them down so you're about half way through your fork travel. Compressing the suspension too far is the quickest way to blow fork seals that I know. You want the bike to be able to "float" on it's suspension, BUT without your straps coming undone.

That's where tip #2 comes in. Once your straps are secure, use a bungy cord run from eye to eye on each bungy. Do NOT hook the bungy to the tie down anchor or the bike. What this does is keep tension on the strap, even if you hit a big bump and the bike bottoms it's suspension. I have never had a strap come off since I started doing this.
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Old 03-10-2016, 05:33 PM   #12
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I think you mentioned that you've never trailered a bike before. A couple tips about tying a bike down. Don't fully compress your suspension with your tie downs. You want to snug them down so you're about half way through your fork travel. Compressing the suspension too far is the quickest way to blow fork seals that I know. You want the bike to be able to "float" on it's suspension, BUT without your straps coming undone.

That's where tip #2 comes in. Once your straps are secure, use a bungy cord run from eye to eye on each bungy. Do NOT hook the bungy to the tie down anchor or the bike. What this does is keep tension on the strap, even if you hit a big bump and the bike bottoms it's suspension. I have never had a strap come off since I started doing this.
fork seals can't be "blown" my compressing them. the oil never pressurizes, it dampens the spring rebound by traveling thru a restricted orifice to another chamber, neither chamber has a pressure differential. when you compress the forks it's the spring that is is compressing. fork seals will leak however from foreign material getting lodged in between the shaft at the seal. quite common on dirt bikes.

as a side note, i was recently in a dirtbike school taught by Shane Watts. he mentioned that modern forks seals are very difficult to damage. he said they rarely need to be replaced even after they leak, they just need a good cleaning to remove the foreign material. Motion Pro makes a very nice cleaner.
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Old 04-12-2016, 09:41 AM   #13
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Strapping down motorcycles

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Originally Posted by HarleyOutlaw View Post
Appreciate the tips. To clarify I have hauled bikes in the past just never owned the trailer. So I never had to make the decision which chock to use. You do have some good tips on strapping down tho. Thanks.

I will be purchasing a chock with a wide base.

Thanks for all the info.
My husband and I are using our LS for the first time in a few weeks, with the 2 Harley's. The chocks arrived yesterday!! But we have never trailered the bikes before. Are there suggestions or general practices used for strapping them down? Thanks for any help offered.
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Old 04-12-2016, 10:37 AM   #14
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Carol,
What kind of chocks did you order? Do they require mounting to the floor or free standing?

Strapping a bike down with a chock is a personal thing...the way I do it, is take 2 straps from the front forks spreader to tie downs (angled outward) and 2 from a hard point on the rear frame to tie downs (angled outward).

These 4 straps can be "pulling" the bike front and rear (called "traction") or "squeezing" the bike front and rear (called compression)...doesn't matter which you use. To use traction or compression is most often a demand of the size of garage (i.e. a big garage has room for traction tie-downs)

I do not compress the front forks with the straps. My way, the bike can ride on it's suspension. The rear straps are only to keep the bike from swinging during the drive.

Others use the handlebars for strapping and even buy straps made to hang on the bars...not me. That stresses the bars and causes unneeded pressure on the fork seals...this is just my opinion.

Best luck
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