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Old 10-29-2012, 09:08 PM   #15
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I'm building right now. Building structure is complete. Now we're wiring and finishing out the inside. Then the concrete pad and paving will come next.

50 x 50 with a 16' side wall,
14 x 14 and 12 x 12 insulated overhead doors,
50 amp plug with disconnect right beside the electric bay,
soft water & sewer dump right beside the wet bay,
5 ton heating and cooling system for climate control,
150 psi compressed air

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Old 10-30-2012, 08:25 AM   #16
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We built our new house about 4 years ago. The first thing I did was build me a RV/Barn.
It is 64'x40'x15' concrete floor 6 in thick and the end where our bus is parked the floor is 10" thick. One of the best things I could ever do to help keep our RV in top notch shape.

Good Luck and Happy RVing
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Old 10-30-2012, 11:48 AM   #17
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Pole Barn

I built my 40'x40' Pole Barn three years ago. Things that I learned:

You can never have too much space. If you can go bigger...go bigger.

I installed 12' doors and this was a mistake. I went bigger on my motorhome and had to have the height of the doors raised.

I did install 50 amp electric service but I do not have water at the barn.

Wish I wouild have placed a sewer/dump close by. This can still be done and I might do it later.
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Old 11-07-2012, 03:09 PM   #18
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Well I finally got my first quote. Ouch! Should have Quote #2 next week.

32x52 stick built, vinyl siding to match existing garage and house, excavating and fill, 6" concrete floor with 2 ft knee walls, 16 foot ceiling 12Wx14H door, 10Wx12H door with glass lights over door, 2 man doors, stairs to second floor, asphalt shingled 8/12 pitch roof, two double windows on second floor each end, cut in 14x100 driveway, insulated 1x6 and 1x8 tongue and groove pine on all interior walls and ceiling. $102K
2 Zone gas heating system, 100 Amp service, outlets, recessed can lighting, $45K

Comes out to $88.34 per sq ft.

Does that sound high?
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Old 11-07-2012, 05:19 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tpflyer
Well I finally got my first quote. Ouch! Should have Quote #2 next week.

32x52 stick built, vinyl siding to match existing garage and house, excavating and fill, 6" concrete floor with 2 ft knee walls, 16 foot ceiling 12Wx14H door, 10Wx12H door with glass lights over door, 2 man doors, stairs to second floor, asphalt shingled 8/12 pitch roof, two double windows on second floor each end, cut in 14x100 driveway, insulated 1x6 and 1x8 tongue and groove pine on all interior walls and ceiling. $102K
2 Zone gas heating system, 100 Amp service, outlets, recessed can lighting, $45K

Comes out to $88.34 per sq ft.

Does that sound high?
I don't know if steel is an option instead of stick building but the building in my post above comes to $31.12 per foot with heat and air and electrical. The driveway is not in that price.
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Old 11-07-2012, 06:03 PM   #20
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Go to Pictures of MH garages about page 7 and up is some discussion on floor sealers, don't let the flat work contractor us Cure and Seal, it will leave tire marks from carbon leaching from the tires. From the pictures I posted, you can see the reflectiveness of the floor finish. Lights used were 10, 6 tube T5's, 5000K and it is lit like an office in the main area. Great for aging eyes.
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Old 11-07-2012, 10:20 PM   #21
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Heres some pics of mine that I built using used material. It measures 14X46 and is 14ft high. still need to pour the floor.
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Old 11-07-2012, 10:32 PM   #22
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TerroMotor home garage.

Your motor home garage is beautiful and well thought out.
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Old 11-08-2012, 08:21 AM   #23
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Top flyer, that $83/sq. ft. sounds about right for stick built here in the mid-west. Not sure about your location. Looks like you will have a great setup when finished. As was mentioned above, you could cut the cost in half by using pole barn construction with metal siding and roof. Some of these setups are really quality units and can be maintained less expensively, but might fit in with your other buildings. We built two large metal buildings and tied them in with the stick built house using matching brick knee walls and similar paint trim. Had to keep the DW happy.
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Old 11-08-2012, 10:10 AM   #24
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For our 43' (really closer to 45') coach, we built smaller than you -- 18x60, 12wx14h overhead door, 16' interior height, one side door, 4 windows, insulated and drywalled, full electric (but no heat). Like you, we had it stick built to match house (siding, shingles, trim, etc.). Total cost was around $55k, or about $51 per square foot. (No extra driveway needed.)

Original thought was to have a second (shorter) bay, similar to you, with storage above, but we were size-limited by HOA covenants. Worked out fine, but could always use more space!
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Old 11-08-2012, 02:23 PM   #25
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Plans

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tpflyer View Post
Well I finally got my first quote. Ouch! Should have Quote #2 next week.

32x52 stick built, vinyl siding to match existing garage and house, excavating and fill, 6" concrete floor with 2 ft knee walls, 16 foot ceiling 12Wx14H door, 10Wx12H door with glass lights over door, 2 man doors, stairs to second floor, asphalt shingled 8/12 pitch roof, two double windows on second floor each end, cut in 14x100 driveway, insulated 1x6 and 1x8 tongue and groove pine on all interior walls and ceiling. $102K
2 Zone gas heating system, 100 Amp service, outlets, recessed can lighting, $45K

Comes out to $88.34 per sq ft.

Does that sound high?
Regardless of the quote you will spend more on finishing out the entire setting where the structure will be built.

Costs will be in additional landscaping, walk ways, driveway, outfitting structure after it finished, and if land is not level retaining walls.

Here is a plan company that will provide engineered plans stamped by a Professional Engineer for your state. BGS will modify any plan you want so don't pass on one of their plans just because it isn't an exact match. The plan set also includes a bill of materials. My brother and I both used this company for our shop plans. I switched my plans from 2x4 to 2x6 construction, went from 8' walls to 10' walls, moved doors and windows and added a roll-up door in the back.

Having a wet stamped, engineered set of plans keeps from having surprises in building costs levied by your local jurisdiction when the inspectors don't like what they see. If the local jurisdiction changes "stamped" plans they assume liability and no local government entity ever wants that. Just having a set of plans that will be built to UBC (Uniform Building Code) allows all kinds of cost increases that the contractor will bill you for.

Get enough plan sets so you can give a set to each bidder. This way you know each bidder is giving you the same building.

Good things to ask for in plans (and have been pointed out in previous postings): stem wall two to four feet high to start building the structure on top of; an arched truss system, which will give you additional ceiling space toward the center of the structure [i.e., with 10' walls on a 4' stem wall, your outside walls are 14' high, but you can have 16' to 18' high in the center of the structure].

-Careful on specifying the door size. When trimmed out you will lose three to six inches of opening clearance.
-Don't forget to ask for insulated doors. May be obvious in MA but it wasn't in Calif.
-Consider a "car" door in the back wall of the structure--opening the front and back doors will ventilate out all the stink from running engines inside in a hurry.
-Add a 30 amp 240 V outlet at the garage door openings (front and back). If you ever do any welding you'll be all set to go.
-Put a 240 V outlet where you are going to place your compressed air pump.
-Put a couple of 125 V outlets in the ceiling where you might put some drop cords. Separate breaker from lights, so when you trip the breaker the lights stay on.

If you ever do any work outside the house or in the structure--put in a toilet and sink. You will never regret that. No shower though, as your local authorities may deem that makes structure a "living space" and will increase your fees and your tax rate.

Check to see if the heating and Air Conditioning makes the structure "Living Space." It did in my brother's county. As an expense control, I had always planned to add heat and AC after the job was done--making it cheaper because I avoided my General Contractor's mark-up. If AC makes it living space, have it wired for AC and add it after the final inspection is done.

There is no such thing as a big enough shop. Start at 100,000 sq and build out as necessary.

I was messing with old cars when I built my 30' X 50' shop and wasn't thinking about RVs. So, I can't stick my RV in this shop for multiple reasons--it's already full and the main door isn't tall enough.
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Old 11-08-2012, 03:40 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crabby Mike View Post
For our 43' (really closer to 45') coach, we built smaller than you -- 18x60, 12wx14h overhead door, 16' interior height, one side door, 4 windows, insulated and drywalled, full electric (but no heat). Like you, we had it stick built to match house (siding, shingles, trim, etc.). Total cost was around $55k, or about $51 per square foot. (No extra driveway needed.)

Original thought was to have a second (shorter) bay, similar to you, with storage above, but we were size-limited by HOA covenants. Worked out fine, but could always use more space!
That is sweet Crabby, I will just have to stick with my old quansit hut shelter....
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Old 11-08-2012, 06:48 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tpflyer View Post
Well I finally got my first quote. Ouch! Should have Quote #2 next week.

32x52 stick built, vinyl siding to match existing garage and house, excavating and fill, 6" concrete floor with 2 ft knee walls, 16 foot ceiling 12Wx14H door, 10Wx12H door with glass lights over door, 2 man doors, stairs to second floor, asphalt shingled 8/12 pitch roof, two double windows on second floor each end, cut in 14x100 driveway, insulated 1x6 and 1x8 tongue and groove pine on all interior walls and ceiling. $102K
2 Zone gas heating system, 100 Amp service, outlets, recessed can lighting, $45K

Comes out to $88.34 per sq ft.

Does that sound high?
Comment about the quote: two stories is a cost increaser, I had to drop my second story to keep my shop affordable. Making living quarters in the structure will hit you on your property taxes also. Talk to your local tax assessor about what types of use will increase your taxes. If you don't have living quarters in this structure you might be able to hook up to your existing septic system (like I was able to do) and cut that cost down too.

Not a cost driver, but a comment on can lights. Can lights are reflector directed lighting and are like having spot lights to work under. Can lights work ok for mood lighting but are not ideal for work shop lighting--where you want flood type of lighting. You may not get enough reflected lighting from the can lights to work on the RV or other things in the shop area. You need the reflected/flood lighting to see into otherwise dark areas such as: inside engine compartments, under vehicles and inside other enclosed areas (i.e., cabinets). In my 30 x 50 shop I have four strings of five 36" dual lamp florescent fixtures. That works fine, but with my cataracts I still need extension lamps for work in some areas.

Regardless of which type of lighting you choose, put the overhead light strings on separate switches for each string. For my lighting with a grand total of 20 fixtures or 40 bulbs at 32 watts each, turn them all on and I'm using 1280 Watts of electricity. Multiple switches cuts down electric bills year around and cuts down on heat in the summer.

I have one string of lights on a dual switch for use as an aisle light. Turn it on at the front of the shop turn it off at the back. I have another switched light set in the project work area--but I can't fit a whole car in there.
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:37 AM   #28
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The last one we had was 40x50 with a dividing wall down the middle. The RV side was a full 50' deep and allowed enough room to open the slides. It also had 50amp plug, phone plug and a septic drain port just outside the front door. I also had 6 flouescent lights mounted on the side walls at the ceiling so when the MH was parked inside no real light was blocked.
On the other side of the shop I had a half bath and a stairway that led to a 20x20 bonus room with skylights, ceiling fan, skylights and a patio door that led to a deck. With that side the front 30' was RV height so I could park enclosed trailers ect. and the back 20' was only 9' ceiling because of the bonus room. But I used that area as my shop.
Behind the shop I had a 10x20 attached where I stored garden type stuff,, mowers ect. And had power there for a shop vac and compressor so it kept the noise down in the actual shop area.
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