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Old 07-09-2013, 08:15 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by fillbert View Post
They are not something you "mount" They are just a screw jack. They come in a couple of different sizes. I put them(2) under the bottom step and extend until the step is stable. Go on the Camping World web site, you can see them there.
I did look at them. My 80 pound step was only held in place by couple of tac welds. The front ones broke loose. There is a heavy frame on each side of the step. I have no idea why they didn't make use of that frame to hold the step in place. My step is more stable now with no sag or spongy feeling. Better than new.
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Old 07-10-2013, 12:54 PM   #16
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Something like this works well. Available widely.

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Old 07-10-2013, 01:41 PM   #17
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Looking for ideas for supporting my Class A Motorhome steps. - Thanks!
Not knowing exactly how much support you are looking for I have a few words of caution...

1. Be careful with how you support your steps from below. You don't any information on your MH so there are a couple variables that could come into play. Regardless, the biggest concern is that your coach settles down on the jacks (they sink in a bit) and thus your step brace starts pushing up on your steps. If you have a DP that uses air bags to auto when parked it is my understanding that they can sometimes slowly lower the coach.

2. While step braces work well with trailers that do not have automatic steps, the brace might have some unintended consequences with automatic steps. As an example, I have to turn on the key to raise or lower my windshield blinds which causes the steps to retract. Depending on your support design, that could be a big problem.

Personally, I would avoid them and look for a better solution. Make sure they are mounted correctly/securely. You could even look into upgraded models.
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Old 07-10-2013, 03:02 PM   #18
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I have the screw-jack type support but I seldom use it. I usually just disable the steps and set up a plastic folding stair outside the door instead. I don't like to use the regular stairs because of the noise.

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Old 07-10-2013, 04:11 PM   #19
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I haven't bought a support because I know I would forget and turn the ignition on for some reason and the steps would try to retract. I don't know if that would damage them or not. Maybe not since they sense current to know when to stop.

My friend Bud was using a screw type jack as a support and the step was bending down around the end of the jack. He ended up using contact cement to glue a piece of 1X4 across the underneath of the step to distribute the load. At least that is what he said he was going to do. I don't know if he has done it or not.
I will see him in AZ in Oct and find out.
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Old 07-11-2013, 04:31 PM   #20
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I haven't bought a support because I know I would forget and turn the ignition on for some reason and the steps would try to retract. I don't know if that would damage them or not. Maybe not since they sense current to know when to stop.

My friend Bud was using a screw type jack as a support and the step was bending down around the end of the jack. He ended up using contact cement to glue a piece of 1X4 across the underneath of the step to distribute the load. At least that is what he said he was going to do. I don't know if he has done it or not.
I will see him in AZ in Oct and find out.
Short length of angle would work well. I just went all out and welded up some custom brackets that supports the step underneath. They attach to frame & step frame & don't have to be removed. The problem is the step frame itself is not strong enough to hold the step in place. The board underneath was good logic except glue has very little shear strength. Needs to be angle that is bolted to the step frame and the MH frame.
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Old 07-11-2013, 09:01 PM   #21
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I found a sissors jack from a used car and then cut a piece of 2x6 to fit under the step. I just tighten the jack to the board, thus making the whole step firm. I also disable the step to be sure it won't retract, should I turn on the ignition.
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Old 07-12-2013, 06:41 AM   #22
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I found a sissors jack from a used car and then cut a piece of 2x6 to fit under the step. I just tighten the jack to the board, thus making the whole step firm. I also disable the step to be sure it won't retract, should I turn on the ignition.
Makes sense...

Still...

I still am concerned about anyone that might put an upward stress on the steps if the jack pads settle into the ground. That would seem to me especially true with DPs where to door is nearly aligned with the front jack and put more weight on them. The lighter, mid-entry gassers might not be quite as subject to that potential.
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Old 07-12-2013, 08:57 AM   #23
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Short length of angle would work well. I just went all out and welded up some custom brackets that supports the step underneath. They attach to frame & step frame & don't have to be removed. The problem is the step frame itself is not strong enough to hold the step in place. The board underneath was good logic except glue has very little shear strength. Needs to be angle that is bolted to the step frame and the MH frame.
I wasn't clear about what he has or is going to do. The 1x4 will be glued to the underneath side of the step to spread the load and will be in compression.
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Old 07-12-2013, 09:37 AM   #24
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The first two replies were - what's wrong with them? Answers were nothing / came that way / bouncy. And it's been noted that in one instance they were either improperly or poorly mounted and welding job took care of it. That seems to be the best idea to me. A qualified welder (if you are not one) would fix you up for next to nothing. Next small town - find the guy, would be my advice. And if properly mounted and still bouncy then they are just not up to the job. The jacks, etc may work but they are not correcting a problem - just mitigating it for now. Quality steps are not cheap but I know that steps don't have to be bouncy and if they are - something isn't quite right. JMHO - YMMV
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Old 07-12-2013, 12:08 PM   #25
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The first two replies were - what's wrong with them? Answers were nothing / came that way / bouncy. And it's been noted that in one instance they were either improperly or poorly mounted and welding job took care of it. That seems to be the best idea to me. A qualified welder (if you are not one) would fix you up for next to nothing. Next small town - find the guy, would be my advice. And if properly mounted and still bouncy then they are just not up to the job. The jacks, etc may work but they are not correcting a problem - just mitigating it for now. Quality steps are not cheap but I know that steps don't have to be bouncy and if they are - something isn't quite right. JMHO - YMMV
I agree, jacks don't work well with electric steps that fold up. My bracket was welded up before I installed it. It basically bolts the step frame to the MH frame. Nothing to effect its fold in or out when door is opened during short stops in rest areas etc. I would have had it done under warranty except I have several welders and all the metal and bolts I needed. The step frame tack welds broke loose and was a poor way to even mount the step frame. I suspected if I had it done under warranty they would have tack welded it the same way for the warranty repair. Probably only good for another few months.
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Old 07-12-2013, 06:12 PM   #26
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Makes sense...

Still...

I still am concerned about anyone that might put an upward stress on the steps if the jack pads settle into the ground. That would seem to me especially true with DPs where to door is nearly aligned with the front jack and put more weight on them. The lighter, mid-entry gassers might not be quite as subject to that potential.

Knock wood---- I am normally on a solid surface, so far my jacks have held. I also have a piece of 1/2" plastic that fits under the jack same as I put down for the mh jacks. I just snug it to the step. Have a friend that had to have his steps repaired, lucky for him he knew a good welder. He is now supporting his steps. So far works for us.
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Old 07-12-2013, 08:54 PM   #27
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With our last RV that had very bouncy steps... If we where going to be parked for more then a few days I used a set of folding steps external to the RV and pulled the fuse for the automatic ones.

As someone that has had a jack seal go, in the middle of the night which was very dramatic, I would not put anything under my RV that can't support the full weight it may be asked to hold.
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Old 07-12-2013, 11:20 PM   #28
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I am going to harbor freight and buy a $ 19.00 scissor jack to put under mine. I have had trouble lately with them getting jamb when it sits awhile and had heavy usage, then I can't get them to retract. The scissor jack is easily adjustable and only need one
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