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Old 11-02-2015, 11:30 AM   #1
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Mouse in the house

We have a 2001 Discovery model 36T powered by a Cummins 5.9L ISB. Mice have invaded the AC ducts in the ceiling. Apparently the ducts are lined with a white foam material and te mice are chewing this for nesting material andwhen we turn on the AC the little foam pieces come out of the vent covers. Also seeds and other nesting material comes out or gets lodged inthe vent holes. We have had this problem for quite a whie but this fall it has become much worse. We live trap mice and dispose of them but the problem persists.

So I have 2 questions: 1) I am looking for effective ways to get rid of the mice and 2) suggestions on how to access the ductwork for cleaning, repair or replacement.

All responses will be greatly appreciated.

2002 Holiday Rambler Septer, Model 40 PBD, Cummins ISC 350HP Diesel Engine, TS Performance Power Play MP-8, Allison 6-SP 3000 Transmission, Roadmaster Raised Rail Chassis.
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Old 11-02-2015, 11:38 AM   #2
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Get some Oil of Peppermint from a health food store and put some as far in the outlets as you can, also if you can, put some in the start of your ducts at the AC. Mice hate this stuff, and your coach will have a better smell to it.

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Old 11-02-2015, 12:04 PM   #3
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I use peanut butter on a regular mouse trap. Fastest time is 20 minutes from the time we put the loaded trap down till I was hauling it out to the garbage.
"We were not placed on this earth to see through one another, but rather to see one another through!"
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Old 11-02-2015, 12:09 PM   #4
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I think I have carpenter ants . Having my bug guy come out tomorrow...
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Old 11-02-2015, 04:15 PM   #5
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Have you considered shooting the undercarriage with Mouse Free? This assumes that those on board have been eliminated.
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Old 11-02-2015, 05:00 PM   #6
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Mouse droppings carry hanta virus. You are almost certainly breathing that in when you use those ducts. I would have them replaced if possible and also have your furnace checked to see that they aren't nesting inside of it as well.

I had to replace my entire furnace and all ducting recently because of the little buggers.

They also love to leave droppings under cabinets underneath drawers and in every hard to access place. I had a huge nest inside my oven as well.
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Old 11-02-2015, 05:12 PM   #7
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Dryer sheets EVERYWHERE drawers, under cabinets, storage bay, closets.
Mice travel by urine scent trails. Break that trail and they are out of there. I even stuff them in places where the plumbing comes up through the floor and behind the fridge.
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Old 11-02-2015, 05:38 PM   #8
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Mice in the ceiling is a big problem. I have none now, but a previous owner let the MH sit for three years while he battled cancer. The mice really did quite a bit of damage, and the worst of it is in the ceiling. It appears that many RVs use ductwork made of stiff cardboard, which is no obstacle at all for mice. They create entry/exit holes at will, turning the entire ceiling into Swiss cheese and greatly reducing the effectiveness of the HVAC system.

I've put a bit of thought into how to fix this. The most expedient way is probably to quit using the ductwork and install ceiling distribution fixtures for your AC units. I am not doing it this way, though, as I like the ducted system. Short of removing the entire ceiling from front to rear, which is a large task and likely ridiculously expensive if you're paying someone else to do it, I think the best way is to remove one ceiling panel at a time, make repairs, and fabricate a metal screen barrier to positively prevent mice from ever entering that section again. You can pack the ductwork tightly with coarse steel wool as you move along its length, only removing the barrier when you are ready to move it to the next section. It's not impossible to dismantle the entire ceiling, but I think you have to accept that the coach will probably be unusable for the duration of the project.

If you decide to do this on your own, please do start a dedicated topic for the project. A lot more people have this problem than are likely to admit it, and we would all benefit from the collaborative effort. I'll be doing that with mine, as soon as the wife decides if we are going to gut the motorhome and remodel or use my one-panel-at-a-time idea.

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Old 11-03-2015, 05:48 AM   #9
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Peanut butter and mouse traps work 100% if you keep them set and change the peanut butter every week or so.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]2005 Newmar Kountry Star DP
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Old 11-03-2015, 06:17 AM   #10
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Just a thought, would your insurance cover the mouse damage? Fixing the problem completely would involve a LOT of work, possible removal of ceiling or roof to access the duct work, it MIGHT be covered under the comprehensive portion of your policy.

On actually getting rid of the mice, and keeping them out, the PO of our coach was a believer in the sonic mouse deterrents. Never had a mouse problem in the 14 year he had it. We owned it for two months, mouse problem, brand new, (we live in a rural area).

I turned on the sonic thingie which he had included with the coach, but I had never turned on. . . . mice left, didn't come back, you can draw your own conclusions, but I'm not going to argue with our success!
Scot & Laura Kellersberger
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Old 11-03-2015, 06:17 AM   #11
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I saw somewhere on here or u-tube of someone having same issue. The mice were coming in thru the rear cap of motorhome,going up inside the cap to top,it showed the unit with the cap removed,and how and where they made their way into the ducts,think it was in fact u-tube.Google how fast mice reproduce,it will enlighten you as to how many trips to relocate (live) mice its going to take you to get rid of present family and how far away they need to be relocated so they won't return.I personally use many,many, tomcat bait stations,plug-in electric repellers in every outlet of coach,dryer sheets everywhere,and the bags of mouse-away peppermint stuff,after seeing the problem others have had,I also closed the 2 large openings at the bottom of my rear cap with 1/4 inch screen.
I would stay hot on this issue, get them out fast,every minute they are in there, more damage is done.Cleaning and repairing the ducts is an even more complicated project,the first thing that comes to my mind= as a way to access duct work and roof insulation is from the roof,would mean new roof,and plywood and........maybe someone else can offer better solution that would be cheaper and easier than my idea. good luck

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Old 11-03-2015, 06:28 AM   #12
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If you do put snap traps in the ductwork, make sure you tie a string to them and fasten the string outside the ductwork. You don't want a struggling or injured mouse to carry the trap far into the ductwork where you can't get it. The smell will be unpleasant and won't even mention how the air quality will suffer.
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Old 11-03-2015, 07:39 AM   #13
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First get on amazon and buy snap traps in the bulk packs.

Get the ones with the yellow bait holder. As they do not need bait for "passing by" catch.

Get some fishing line to tie each trap to something as chain of eats means other critters will carry the catch of the day with trap away.

Peanut butter attracts them so place baited traps away from mh and non baited traps under it.

They cannot see well so they scurry along walls.

Get some 2 X 4 from store and set them on their side to create walls.

Place them across under the mh as well as around it.

Place traps along this wall 90 degrees to wall with baited end against wall.

They will usually not try to jump it but instead scurry along it and in passing run across the traps.

You can tell how caught by how they are in the trap.

If head in the bait they were eating and if body across bait they were passing.

We get more passing than eating recently.

Now just need to figure out how to get the rats we seen in the trees!

Not squirrel s but rats in trees &*ŁĄ€
Tony & Lori
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Old 11-03-2015, 09:00 AM   #14
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The best trap is the one you make yourself and is super easy to make, manage and dump. You do have to have a drill. Take a standard 5 gallon bucket, a small empty can and a hangar, and a small amount of peanut butter. Now, make the best trap in the world for nearly zero cost. Leave the handle on the bucket for easy handling. Midway between the handle attachments to the bucket, drill two small holes near the top opposite of each other. Cut a hanger to two inches longer than the length between the two holes. Take any small to medium, round, empty can and mark the exact center of the flat top and bottom. Drill two holes at your center marking just large enough for your wire to pass through. You are almost finished making the best mouse trap known to man. Thread the straight hanger through one side of the bucket, through the can and out the opposite side of the bucket. Bend the ends over to secure the wire and slide the can to the center. Smear a small layer of peanut butter around the circular can to create a rolling cylinder. You can add peanut butter as necessary to balance the "wheel" for perfect operation. You are ready to capture every mouse in the area like kids lining up for free cotton candy at a carnival ride!

Put abou 4 or 5 inches of water in the bottom (if freezing, use some antifreeze) and set in place at any convenient spot. Now place a ramp to one or both edges at the end of the wire. Any scrap of wood, stick, or pole will work. It will not be long before you have multiple swimmers. Wait a day or so and they will all be deceased.

This will hold literally dozens with no action required by you. Just dump the bucket before they get stinky, refill and leave to guard the area indefinitely.

The principal operation is simple. They cannot resist the peanut butter, climb the ramp, balance on the edge and the wire and try to reach or jump for the can which rolls like a log roller and takes them swimming. It is always set, and fortunately the activity does not tip off the crowd but instead draws them in with the activity.

Obviously this does not fix the entry problem, but provides a "permanent" destination for all of the attendees. Labels are optional as to my knowledge mice do not understand English.
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