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Old 02-25-2014, 08:40 AM   #15
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what do you feel is the best method of removing the wood? I'm imagining that a sharp razor knife might be able to cut it right out.
I used a zipsaw. You can adjust the depth to match the plywood. We'll worth the cost.
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Old 02-25-2014, 08:50 AM   #16
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As an insurance restoration contractor, I have to advise all to be very careful removing any suspected moldy materials. Mold spores are not a healthy thing to encounter and can cause respiratory issues. Below is not exactly how I would suggest you do it because it does not meet the guidelines for mold removal, however, it will be better than what most people will do on their own.

Make sure you have some way of creating negative air in your bus so that exposed mold is drawn outside of the bus. A fan in a window drawing air to the outside would be best. Put poly up everywhere to cover areas that are not to be removed and keep the work area to a size that is manageable. This minimizes cleanup. Once you have protected your bus, protect yourself and use a half mask respirator with cartridges suitable for mold removal. I hate to suggest this but at least wear a paper mask to minimize exposure. Remove the paneling. If you see mold, don't use a fan on it but a dehumidifier to remove moisture. Fans just blow mold spores around during the evaporation process. Treat the area with a mold killer such as Fosters 40-80. At minimum use a 50/50 mix of bleach and water. Careful not to get any on anything colorfast. Let dry and then encapsulate the affected area with a product such as Fosters 40-50. Again, at minimum use a shelled based product like Kilz or Bin Zinzer.
This method only touchs on the correct methods, but will be relatively close to the proper methods of safely removing and remediating mold containing materials.
It will certainly be more than most people will do.

To remove the cabinets, the inside tops and bases of the cabinet frames are usually covered in a 1/8" vineer that is stapled to a 2"x2" frame. Using a thin sash bar to pop the panels. Remove the staples for re-install. These panels will expose the screws where the cabinets are mounted to the walls and ceiling through the 2"x2" framing. If the cabinets are not connected to each other through the front frame, side panels will also have to be removed to expose the screws that attach.

Use(rent) a small air pin nailer or air stapler to reattach panels once cabinets have been re-installed.

Note: These inner cabinet frames also house channels to carry wiring from one end to the other and also for lighting underneath.
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Old 02-25-2014, 09:36 AM   #17
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I had a leak in my bedroom and had removed wall and insulation to repair, check your flooring as under mine the water had collected and the rigid foam was sitting in water! It may not look like there is a problem but water running down the wall has to go somewhere!
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Old 02-25-2014, 09:49 AM   #18
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I recently had the same problem in a rear bedroom of a MH I was selling. I started the repair but chickened out after seeing the damage. I was not sure what was next so I took it to a RV repair shop. They did an excellent job and matched the walls and ceiling almost perfectly. The panels can be purchased already covered. This MH was a 1988 Coachmen. I was surprised at quality of material and workman ship once getting into this repair. I currently own a '98 Pace Arrow and have been told Coachmen were not the best quality. Perhaps things change over the years. If you have a place to work and average ability you can make your repair a lot cheaper than having 4 guys working on it several days. Do the leg work and locate where to purchase materials and you will be good to go. There are many YouTube videos showing how to make these repairs and will show you what to expect. In my case I thought there was stud damage and no inside place to work caused me to chicken. I was wrong and could have made the repair easily.
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Old 02-25-2014, 12:13 PM   #19
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I think the thing to remember is its just a motorhome. Its put together just about like anything else. One piece at a time. Its not the space station and all the parts used are common construction materials.
If you take your time and dismantle the good pieces carefully not to damage them you can see what your dealing with, make your repairs and re install the stuff that's not damaged.
Don't be intimidated by the RV its not like Indiana has some secret cave where they mine for material only used in the RV industry.
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Old 02-25-2014, 12:39 PM   #20
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...its not like Indiana has some secret cave where they mine for material only used in the RV industry.
Sometimes I wonder...
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Old 02-25-2014, 06:28 PM   #21
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Jay,
Sorry to hear you have this job ahead of you. In pulling out the center cabinet and modifying both side cabinets I can tell you they will definitely come out, but it will suck. I believe you can remove the drivers side cabinet by itself and not remove the center one first, though that may be easier. Perhaps you should strongly consider that cabinet mod I did and just demo out the center cabinet to more carefully remove the drivers side cabinet. Everything is just screwed into place and can be pulled apart. That curtain holder thingy that pulled out, that is well behind the window isn't it. You may want to literally poke around with an awl, but I am going to recommend something that may seem drastic. Remove the window and ALL of the interior siding from the A-Pillar back to the slide. You can then replace with one contiguous piece, and it honestly isn't all that much. Hopefully you will not have to remove the floor cabinetry, but prepare for the worst - as water obeys gravity.

I am not endorsing or liable for this comment, but I come from a line of rednecks that would mock me for being "too" scared of a little mold, so I would wear only a respirator like the ones designed for automotive paint. Again, it's your body.

Like I said, assume you have to demo that whole section of wall and just tear it out. The cabinet above your head has carpet-lined inner panels that have a few black screws and velcro holding them in. Removing as much of that as you can will reveal the screws that attach the cabinet to the aluminum framing in the front and the screws holding that cabinet to the TV box. You will need to remove your TV to access the screws connecting the two cabinets. If you catch this before it harms the outside plywood you are golden and I would consider the repair easy. Getting the final trim done may take a while, but getting back to functional should not be too hard. Also, do investigate THOROUGHLY where the intrusion came from. My fear is it came from higher thinking of how the window relates to that trim that pulled off.

Wonder if the place you bought it from HAD to replace the flooring due to water damage... hrmm.

Wish I could help!

Chris
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Old 02-26-2014, 11:46 PM   #22
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Like the others said, open it up now. If the side wall starts to delaminate on the outside you've drastically reduced the amount of people that will be interested in purchasing your coach should you decide to sell. I would also remove the plywood all the way to the slide. Much easier to replace the entire piece and you won't be able to tell from factory. Im sure Fleetwood can supply or at least get you in touch with the supplier of the wallboard for a perfect match.
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Old 02-27-2014, 06:51 AM   #23
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Like the others said, open it up now. If the side wall starts to delaminate on the outside you've drastically reduced the amount of people that will be interested in purchasing your coach should you decide to sell. I would also remove the plywood all the way to the slide. Much easier to replace the entire piece and you won't be able to tell from factory. Im sure Fleetwood can supply or at least get you in touch with the supplier of the wallboard for a perfect match.
I had said to open the wall up right away and then had to think a bit after a few people came on and told of the dangers of Mold. Mold is a nasty thing to be sure but I am still going to go with open the wall up immediately wearing a respirator and get an Ozone generator. I picked this one up:

Amazon.com: 7000 mg/h Shock Treatment Bare Bones Ozone Generator: Everything Else

And have been very pleased with it. Ozone is not exactly the miracle odor cure that some may want BUT it will kill mold, especially airborne mold. You need a generator powerful enough like the one I linked but you don't want to run one that powerful all the time as it will damage rubber and plastics so you will need a timer that can pulse it say 5 seconds every minute or so.

You would then open the wall quickly wearing the respirator then run the Ozone to kill whatever nastiness comes out while it dries.
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Old 02-27-2014, 07:28 AM   #24
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I had said to open the wall up right away and then had to think a bit after a few people came on and told of the dangers of Mold. Mold is a nasty thing to be sure but I am still going to go with open the wall up immediately wearing a respirator and get an Ozone generator. I picked this one up:

Amazon.com: 7000 mg/h Shock Treatment Bare Bones Ozone Generator: Everything Else

And have been very pleased with it. Ozone is not exactly the miracle odor cure that some may want BUT it will kill mold, especially airborne mold. You need a generator powerful enough like the one I linked but you don't want to run one that powerful all the time as it will damage rubber and plastics so you will need a timer that can pulse it say 5 seconds every minute or so.

You would then open the wall quickly wearing the respirator then run the Ozone to kill whatever nastiness comes out while it dries.
WHOA! Be careful about introducing Ozone into a moisture situation!

Ozone and moisture or water can cause changes to the air and can result in dangerous gas situations such as sulfuric acid and hydrogen peroxide. Either of which is very harmful to living things as well as a variety of materials in your RV.

Quoted from a file on Ozone:

Unfortunately, the same chemical properties that allow ozone to alter organic material in household air (ie: mold) also give it the ability to react with organic material inside the human body. Even low levels of ozone exposure can cause the following conditions:

-coughing, chest pain, shortness of breath, wheezing, and throat irritation;
-worsened chronic respiratory diseases, such as asthma;
increased risk of developing bronchitis or pneumonia;
-and compromised ability of the body to fight respiratory infections.

I don't want to scare everyone, but a nonchalant attitude about your personal safety can be a regretful one. As we get older, our immune systems are more susceptible to the slightest change. Be educated in the things you do for yourself! Don't make it the last thing you do just to save a dollar!
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Old 02-27-2014, 07:45 AM   #25
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Some interesting reading we can all use:

CDC - Mold - General Information - Facts About Mold and Dampness
Ozone and Your Health|Air Quality|EHHE|NCEH

Thanks Les for your expertise.
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Old 02-27-2014, 09:25 AM   #26
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Here's an update.

In order to really get the wood out, the window has to come out for sure. But I unfortunately have no place to do this. So I have hired a local RV Repair shop that appears to know exactly what they are talking about... since they have the tools and the know how and the space to do this.

And I'm thinking that I am going to have them remove that front cabinet as well and make me a mount for the tv
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Old 02-27-2014, 09:26 AM   #27
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also I wonder if there is a way to confirm for the bad mold or not? Don't they sell a test kit at home depot? I would think they dealer who let it go like that would have some liability in the situation.
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Old 02-27-2014, 10:09 AM   #28
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WHOA! Be careful about introducing Ozone into a moisture situation!

Ozone and moisture or water can cause changes to the air and can result in dangerous gas situations such as sulfuric acid and hydrogen peroxide. Either of which is very harmful to living things as well as a variety of materials in your RV.

Quoted from a file on Ozone:

Unfortunately, the same chemical properties that allow ozone to alter organic material in household air (ie: mold) also give it the ability to react with organic material inside the human body. Even low levels of ozone exposure can cause the following conditions:

-coughing, chest pain, shortness of breath, wheezing, and throat irritation;
-worsened chronic respiratory diseases, such as asthma;
increased risk of developing bronchitis or pneumonia;
-and compromised ability of the body to fight respiratory infections.

I don't want to scare everyone, but a nonchalant attitude about your personal safety can be a regretful one. As we get older, our immune systems are more susceptible to the slightest change. Be educated in the things you do for yourself! Don't make it the last thing you do just to save a dollar!
I'm sorry, I assumed it would be a dry environment since he would be drying the wall out. I guess I should have cautioned that neither you nor any living thing you care about should be in the camper while it is Ozonized.
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