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Old 05-23-2013, 07:57 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by HicksRA View Post
I don't know of a 50A fuse anywhere. Where should I look for it?
No LEDs are lit at 13 or 14 above CR7 for the master relay.
The big 12V red cable from the battery to the master relay is hot. That's the only thing that has voltage to the relays. The smaller black wire that energizes the relay has no voltage to it.
I've been through the diagnostics in the troubleshooting guide and it looks like I need a new control box. Still waiting for contact from HWH.
SORRY
Cannot help you more.
I was told by HWH that if the 13 and 14 LED were not yellow and red would mean a new Control box....(expensive)
Since there is power at the master relay (strange there are 2 for mine, side-by-side, one called CONT and the second INT), it means that the 50A fuse is OK (located at a different site)
Good luck
Norm
PS I had an immediate acces to the technical support by calling Newmar technical assistance and we have had a 3 persons conference call.
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Old 05-23-2013, 08:06 AM   #16
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Might I make a suggestion. If the main red 12v cable is hot you might have a bad chassis ground. Take, I think a 3/4 socket, and underneath the pump there are two bolts holding it on to the frame. That is the main ground. They work loose. Try to tighten them up. Fixed mine. Just a suggestion.
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Old 05-23-2013, 08:10 AM   #17
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Also, you can check a bad ground with a meter and it will read good but as soon as you put a load on it it will break
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Old 05-23-2013, 08:37 AM   #18
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Might I make a suggestion. If the main red 12v cable is hot you might have a bad chassis ground. Take, I think a 3/4 socket, and underneath the pump there are two bolts holding it on to the frame. That is the main ground. They work loose. Try to tighten them up. Fixed mine. Just a suggestion.
That's always my first suspicion with these types of issues. It seems every problem I've had with my coach has been related to a bad ground somewhere, including my HWH leveler system.
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Old 05-23-2013, 04:26 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJGJR View Post
Might I make a suggestion. If the main red 12v cable is hot you might have a bad chassis ground. Take, I think a 3/4 socket, and underneath the pump there are two bolts holding it on to the frame. That is the main ground. They work loose. Try to tighten them up. Fixed mine. Just a suggestion.
I read on another thread a while ago about checking the ground connections. I did get under the tray where the pump assembly is mounted and tightened the two bolts on the mount. I was able to tighten them about 1/8 to 1/4 turn, but it didn't seem to make any difference.

The best I can tell is I'm just not getting a signal from the control board to energize the master relay. Once the relay is energized, it sends power to the 4 pin gray connector which further wakes up the control board. If there was a bad ground, I'd still be able to see the voltage on post #1 of the relay.

After no response from HWH, I sent them a written help inquiry via their website and haven't heard any response to it either. That's the most aggravating thing.

Thanks for all the suggestions.
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Old 06-05-2013, 05:37 PM   #20
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As a follow up, yesterday, after two weeks, I started the motorhome, the air immediately dumped and the travel light was on. I've had no lights on the control panel prior. Tried the jacks and everything worked.
Coincidently, Frank from HWH finally called and I relayed to him what had happened, but the jacks just started working.
His response was the same as most other posts I've read, that Spartan chassis with the IFS were noted for bad grounds and I should take a #4 cable and run it from the grounding post at the jack unit as far back onto the frame as possible.
I had previously checked all the ground points and tightened the motor mount to no effect.
I went to Walmart and bought a set of jumper cables, cut the clamps off, tied both wires together and crimped on some copper ring connectors to mount to the jack grounding post and frame.
When I went to loosen the nut from the jack grounding post, as soon as I put the socket on it, it came loose. It was just barely finger tight. I'm 99% sure this was the problem all along. The only grounding point I overlooked was the problem. I had wiggled the wires going to that post, but had not checked the tightness of the nut.
So the conclusion to my problem is the same as most others.
If your jacks are acting crazy, check those grounds.......
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Old 06-05-2013, 05:46 PM   #21
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Sorry never notice your post glad you found your problem, grounds will cause some headaches.
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Old 06-11-2013, 05:10 PM   #22
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Good tips. I am working with Frank right now on my jack issue. I have been blowing a fuse in the control box and the fuse holder melted off completely. Frank determined that the jack may have been slow to retract, causing the solenoid to stay open to long, causing it to overheat and blow the fuse. Both control panel and solenoid are back at HWH getting a rebuild.
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Old 06-12-2013, 05:00 AM   #23
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ground problems can be diagnosed with a long jumper cable to eliminate them as part of the diagnosis. make a long jumper lead with alligator clips on it and attach one end to the proper battery negative terminal ( either coach batteries or engine batteries depending on the problem) Attach the other end of the jumper cable to either the mounting bolt or if you see where a ground wire is attached clip it on there. If you go directly to the negative battery terminal that removes all doubt about a bad ground path. If your problem is fixed then you can start looking for the bad ground.
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Old 06-12-2013, 11:54 AM   #24
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My problem was that lights were coming on on the control board, so it seems that you'd have to have a ground for that to happen, thus I didn't go too much farther checking grounds other than tightening the mount bolts and doing continuity checks. But the system is powered by more than one positive voltage source, so maybe there's more than one ground source as well. Or maybe a weak ground was enough to light some LED's, but not enough to power up the entire unit.
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