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Old 05-30-2012, 09:22 AM   #43
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He has an `03 National Sea Breeze 1311. I have an `04 National Sea Breeze 1311. Both on the Ford F53 chassis. I only have one disconnect switch. There could be differences, but I'm betting they're pretty close. If you're going to do a stare and compare, would you do it with a like, make, model and year, or would you compare it to a Monaco? I don't know everything about it, but I'm learning.
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Old 05-30-2012, 10:03 AM   #44
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Guys, thanks for the great advice. I will check out all wiring connections, grounds and the fuse panel as well as the starter and solenoid. I will report back on my findings this evening.

Tony
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Old 05-30-2012, 10:42 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbo16720

But you have to remember it needs the positive side too. All of that comes off the positive side of the battery to the selonoid. And all the Fords I've seen have the selonoid with 2 big wires (positive) and 2 small wires (electromagnet) for starting. When you turn your key to start it fires the electromagnet to close the circuit for the positive side to the starter. All it's doing is connecting those 2 big wires together till the engine starts and you let go of the key. I've had the wire lose contact on the selonoid and the starter.
Yes ford solenoid have 2 big wires on them IF not attached to the starter and 1 or 2 small. The 2 big wires are one side is hot the other is not and when you hit the key it closes the circuit turning starter. If the hot side has 2 big wires then the second not attached to the battery goes where power is needed.

If the power for everything went through the solenoid you would only have power while cranking.
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Old 05-30-2012, 10:49 AM   #46
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He said he cleaned the battery terminals. He has not said he cleaned the grounds. I know how a starter/solenoid works. Yes, there are two big lugs and a wire to activate the solenoid, but not two big wires, just a short one that goes into the starter motor. I can take a picture of mine if you want.
All the ones I've seen had 2...both positive...in one side out the other. And he said he cleaned the terminals....these are not battery terminals these are connections on the solenoid.
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Old 05-30-2012, 03:03 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by jimbo16720 View Post
All the ones I've seen had 2...both positive...in one side out the other. And he said he cleaned the terminals....these are not battery terminals these are connections on the solenoid.
If his `03 starter motor is the same as my `04, then his should look like this.
Of course it has two connections. I just don't think the bottom one should be called
a "wire". More like a Buss. Tony said he cleaned the battery terminals. He wasn't
talking about these.

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Old 05-30-2012, 03:24 PM   #48
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Tony,
I had a simular problem with my coach a month ago. Went to start it up and no power, so I figured it had to be the batteries, and ordered two. Went to the battery box and went to turn off the chassis switch and it fell apart in my hands. Ordered a new switch, and just for fun connected the two wires togather and the coach started. Cancelled the batteries, when the switch came in replaced it and no problems since...knock on wood.
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Old 05-30-2012, 03:40 PM   #49
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nb141fd,

Check all of the chassis ground connection near the battery. The hydroboost pump should be running when the ignition key is in the on position. This makes a lot of noise. A good test would be to connect a single jumper cable from the NEG terminal to a GOOD ground connection. Then attempt to engage the starter with the key. Quick test to determine ground condition. Just my two cents...
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Old 05-30-2012, 07:26 PM   #50
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Update

Well I spent several frustrating hours today trying to get to the root of my problem. I checked all the fuses again and hit the 3 reset buttons I was able to find on my Battery Control Center to no avail. My multimeter broke but fortunately I had a test light with me and was able to verify 12volts from the battery tray to the starter connections. I checked the grounds from the battery tray to the starter and they looked good. I wasn't able to follow any of the wires after the starter and will probably do that on Friday.

Being concerned about the starter or the starter relay I removed them and had them tested at AutoZone. Both passed the tests. I also crawled around under the dash again but was unable to find any loose wires, burned out fuses or anything suspicious. My next opportunity to work on the MH will be Friday. At that time I will try to verify grounds and 12volt power after the starter. I will also try to remove some of the dash so I can get a better look at some of the wiring I currently can't see.

My current symptoms:
-Nothing happens when the key is turned to start position, no sounds either
-No headlights, turn-signals, brake lights, radio, horns or dash lights.
-Only noise I can cause is a slight 'chattering' when engaging the hazard lights
-Only control on dash that is operational is the generator start/stop switch

What I've verified:
-All batteries; 2 coach and 1 chassis are good and meter out to 12.7+
-12volt and grounds from battery to starter are good
-Starter and starter relay are good via AutoZone testing
-Every fuse located under dash, in electrical compartment and under hood look good

If you have any more ideas I'm open to giving them a try.

TIA, Tony
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Old 05-30-2012, 08:02 PM   #51
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When you turn the key to on, do the warning lights on the dash light up?
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Old 05-30-2012, 08:18 PM   #52
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Dunner, when I turn the key absolutely nothing happens. No lights no bells no whistles. By the way, My starter looked exactly like the photo you posted.

Tony
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Old 05-30-2012, 08:21 PM   #53
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Did you try shorting the small red wire to the large red wire? That would tell you if you are getting voltage and current to the starter motor. The motor would have turned over.
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Old 05-30-2012, 08:23 PM   #54
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I'm thinking it might be the key switch, but I don't think everything goes through it. It might, but I'm not sure. You said the ground looked good. You should of taken it off to see if the might be rust behind the ground lug.
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Old 05-30-2012, 08:32 PM   #55
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Oh, I'm getting voltage to the starter, when I used my test light and touched it to the starter (with the key in the on position) lugs it lit up. When I said the grounds looked good I meant that they had no signs of rust and were bolted tight to the frame.

Tony
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Old 05-30-2012, 08:37 PM   #56
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No lights, no hydroboost pump, no start. Only things in common are the battery (good), the positive lead including battery connection (unknown condition - voltmeter or test light is not enough load) and the negative lead including battery connection (unknown condition of the chassis ground connection or the cabling). Has the OP tried to start the MH with the House batteries. Still sounds like a ground issue, IMHO. Again, Just my two cents...
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