Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > Class A Motorhome Discussions
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 05-30-2012, 08:46 PM   #57
Registered User
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Varies Depending on The Weather
Posts: 8,517
You need to jump the starter with the key on to see if the engine will start and run. That will tell you two things. One that the voltage, ground and starter are working sufficiently to start the engine. Two, that the ignition key at least works in the run position.

Some coaches have an auxiliary start switch in the engine compartment like I have in my Monaco. If you have one, try that also.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
__________________

__________________
Dr4Film is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 05-30-2012, 09:06 PM   #58
Senior Member
 
mgscott4's Avatar
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Kansas City, MO./Pollock, LA.
Posts: 1,549
Check the ignition switch on the steering column. The key turns a lever that pushes a rod that moves a contact over the correct terminals on the ignition switch mounted on the steering column. Take the cover off the column and watch the lever move with the key rotation. If it moves, check the ignition switch, if it doesn't move check the back of the key switch.
__________________

__________________
06 Hurricane 34FT WH W20 Chassis 8.1L 132K, Steersafe, Koni Shocks, DIY Trac Bar, Tri-Metric 2025RV Battery Monitor, 4-6V Batteries, Scan Gauge 2, Crossfires, 735W Solar Morningstar MPPT-60, WG T4 In-Motion Sat, XM Radio, 07 Chevy Malibu Maxx Toad, Falcon 2, Brake Buddy, Escapee
mgscott4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2012, 09:35 PM   #59
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 21
Ted, Richard and MGScott4 thanks for the replies. On Friday I will try to jump the starter to see if I can get the engine started. I will also check out MGScott4's advice concerning the key switch. I was mentally checking off the starter since it tested out OK and I wasn't getting any power to the dash for any lights or controls but I will give it a try. The key switch is an interesting possibility. Does all power for the dash (lights, horn, signals, radio etc...) go through this switch first? Thanks again.


Tony
__________________
nb141fd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2012, 09:40 PM   #60
Senior Member
 
TLGPE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: CLEARWATER, FLORIDA
Posts: 725
One more vote for the ground connections. The fact that the radio and the turn signals got crossed up says that there could be currents flowing in the wrong direction trying to get a ground. If you have another vehicle nearby, and some jumper cables, you can try jumping directly from the engine block to the starter connection. If it turns, it's not the starter. If it turns with the cable connected to the battery side of the starter and the solenoid shorted (or the key turned), it's not the solenoid. Whatever you do, be careful!

Best I can do from here..............

Tom
__________________
TLGPE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2012, 09:41 PM   #61
Senior Member
 
Dunner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Phx, Arid~zona
Posts: 11,106
No, the lights and horn work all the time. Key in/out on/off.
I thought mgscott4 was on to something, but even if the switch or the lever to the switch was bad, that wouldn't explain the lights and horn not working.
__________________
2004 32' National Sea Breeze 1311 Class A on a F-53 Chassis, CHF, TST TPMS, 5Star Tune.
If Dunner (RVM23) can't fix it, it ain't broke!
Cheap Handling Fix Poll. Click Here to vote?
Dunner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2012, 10:58 PM   #62
Senior Member
 
mgscott4's Avatar
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Kansas City, MO./Pollock, LA.
Posts: 1,549
Just thinking. What if the ignition switch is stuck in between positions and is is not making contact on any key position. If the rod is broken or the moving contact(s) on the ignition switch is broken then no power out of the switch. You would have no power to distribute to the lights(or relay), turn signal (or relay), horn (or relay).
__________________
06 Hurricane 34FT WH W20 Chassis 8.1L 132K, Steersafe, Koni Shocks, DIY Trac Bar, Tri-Metric 2025RV Battery Monitor, 4-6V Batteries, Scan Gauge 2, Crossfires, 735W Solar Morningstar MPPT-60, WG T4 In-Motion Sat, XM Radio, 07 Chevy Malibu Maxx Toad, Falcon 2, Brake Buddy, Escapee
mgscott4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2012, 01:45 AM   #63
Senior Member
 
Dunner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Phx, Arid~zona
Posts: 11,106
That's assuming the power for those item go thru the switch. I know headlights can't be "fused". I don't know it that is a DOT rule or law or what. Something to do with safety.
__________________
2004 32' National Sea Breeze 1311 Class A on a F-53 Chassis, CHF, TST TPMS, 5Star Tune.
If Dunner (RVM23) can't fix it, it ain't broke!
Cheap Handling Fix Poll. Click Here to vote?
Dunner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2012, 11:46 AM   #64
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 21
Dunner, my battery control center looks very much like yours (page 2 of this thread). I have two small resets (one on each end of the BCC) that I can easily access. The larger 150A reset that controls Jack and Generator start solenoids is difficult to reach as it is located on the back of my BCC. I can partially reach back there with one finger and feel like I am resetting the lever. The only way to be absolutely sure that it is reset is for me to remove the BCC from the wall of the compartment and turn it over to access the reset lever.

Before I do this, can you tell me if I need to go to these lengths as I have generator service? I can easily start the generator from the dash and have done so a couple of time since my break-down to maintain my batteries. I don't have control over my leveling jacks since the panel is next to the dash and is one of the items that you can control when the engine is running (which mine is not). Hope this doesn't sound too confusing but I didn't want to remove the BCC if by being able to start my generator it eliminated the reset lever as a possible culprit in my non-start situation.

TIA, Tony
__________________
nb141fd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2012, 01:14 PM   #65
Senior Member
 
Dunner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Phx, Arid~zona
Posts: 11,106
I don't think anything in the BCC controls what is not working. The house and chassis batteries go to the BCC, but they don't go through it. Think of it more as a Battery Distribution Center where the house and chassis batteries are tied together and distribute the 12 volts where and when they are needed.

Can you take some pics of your battery banks and your BCC?
__________________
2004 32' National Sea Breeze 1311 Class A on a F-53 Chassis, CHF, TST TPMS, 5Star Tune.
If Dunner (RVM23) can't fix it, it ain't broke!
Cheap Handling Fix Poll. Click Here to vote?
Dunner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2012, 03:54 PM   #66
Member
 
cpr_vbg's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Vicksburg, MS
Posts: 86
Here is some more free advise. I don't think it is the key/ignition switch, since the horn does not work. The horn and brake lights should work without the key in the ignition.

I had a similar problem. I have a 2000 ford f53 chassis. I figure the configuration of yours is similar. In the engine compartment is what the Ford owners manual calls the power distribution box which contains the relays and fuses for all the systems associated with the engine. If you have no dash lights, horn etc and it will not turn over, I would first check to see if there is power to that panel(not just jf the fuses are good). This panel controls the power to the entire engine electrical system Check to make sure the fuses are tightly in the terminals. I actually had a loose fuse that caused my problems.

If there is power in the power distribution box, I would also have the engine battery tested (out of the vehicle). It my be showing voltage but it may not have sufficient amperage to power the relays. If there is no power, trace the wiring from the panel to the battery, looking for a large fuse probably on the firewall.

Good luck.
__________________
cpr_vbg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2012, 04:06 PM   #67
Senior Member
 
Dunner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Phx, Arid~zona
Posts: 11,106
I forgot all about that out of sight, out of mind fuse box just inside the front of the MH. There's some really big fuses in there too. I am so embarrassed. Well, nobody else thought of it either. to cpr_vbg. Gonna go look at mine right now. I do know that the inside of the cover only has fuse numbers and I don't have an owner's manual.


Bingo. We may have a winner. The white wire goes to a circuit breaker I added.
__________________
2004 32' National Sea Breeze 1311 Class A on a F-53 Chassis, CHF, TST TPMS, 5Star Tune.
If Dunner (RVM23) can't fix it, it ain't broke!
Cheap Handling Fix Poll. Click Here to vote?
Dunner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2012, 04:31 PM   #68
Senior Member
 
Dunner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Phx, Arid~zona
Posts: 11,106
2003 Owners manual. Scroll down to F53 Mohorhome chassis.

F-53+Motorhome+Chassis

Looking at page 42+, it looks like a lot of fuses would have to be blown to all of Tony's symptoms. Question? What feeds this fuse box?
__________________
2004 32' National Sea Breeze 1311 Class A on a F-53 Chassis, CHF, TST TPMS, 5Star Tune.
If Dunner (RVM23) can't fix it, it ain't broke!
Cheap Handling Fix Poll. Click Here to vote?
Dunner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2012, 04:47 PM   #69
Senior Member
 
Damon Owners Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: NAS Pensacola, FL
Posts: 329
nb141fd,

Just for Ha-Ha's, with the key OFF, step on the brakes and see if the hydroboost pump starts.
__________________
Ted Fulltiming in the DreamCatcher a
2008 Challenger 371PE on F53 w/ 2010 Cobalt
R'V there yet?
teddyu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2012, 04:48 PM   #70
Senior Member
 
Grandpadave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Deland, FL
Posts: 162
Quote:
Originally Posted by nb141fd
After driving 200 miles today I shut my engine down while removing personal items at the storage yard. When I went to restart the motor to move it into my parking space I got nothing, not even a click. I checked my batteries and each (1 chassis and 2 coach) showed over 12.8 volts. I have no lights (headlight, turn signal or brake) and get only a 'clicking' sound when I try to activate my 4-way flashers. All interior lights, appliances and slides work on battery power. It is as I've lost my chassis electrical supply some where between the battery and the front end of my MH. I checked every fuse in my fuse box as well as the engine compartment and found none that were 'burned out'. I also made sure the battery terminals were tight and clean and any reset buttons on the fuse panels were reset. I also crawled under the dash to see if I could find any loose wiring and found none.

I'm going to get back out to the storage yard this week to further check out this problem and was wondering if anyone had any ideas or suggestions on what might be causing my problem? Oh, by the way I did drive on some very rough roads today and was concerned that might have contributed to a wire coming loose. I also noticed that when using my turn signal when passing today that my radio would cut out until the turn signal cancelled. I have never noticed that occurrence before and think it might be related to my situation. Thanks in advance for any help you might be able to provide.

Tony
This just happened to me, it turned out to be the starter solenoid.
__________________

__________________
Grandpadave is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:33 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.