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Old 05-31-2012, 04:53 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grandpadave View Post
This just happened to me, it turned out to be the starter solenoid.
Quote:
I have no lights (headlight, turn signal or brake) and get only a 'clicking' sound when I try to activate my 4-way flashers.
A bad starter solenoid can not cause the above items to not work.
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Old 05-31-2012, 04:57 PM   #72
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That is the panel I was referring to (power distribution box) (Dunner's picture). Is there power (12 volts) to all fuses in this panel? With multiple systems affected, I think there will not be any power to the panel. That would mean it is a breaker/fuse between the panel and the battery.

Conrad
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Old 05-31-2012, 04:59 PM   #73
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I know, but which one and where is it?

(Repost to keep it on a current page)
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Old 05-31-2012, 05:11 PM   #74
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I know, but which one and where is it?

(Repost to keep it on a current page)
The 150Amp circuit breaker you refer to in earlier posts.
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Old 05-31-2012, 05:14 PM   #75
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Gentlemen, thank you for your help.

Dunner-I will try and get a couple of pics tomorrow when I get back out to MH. I found the under-hood panel you are talking about and pulled every fuse (some are 60amp honkers) and they all look good. In fact, I've even done this twice.

Ted-When I first found that I could not start the engine I would get a soft brake (boosted) pedal. Now whether the key is on or not the brake pedal is hard as a rock and only goes down about 1/2-1". I also do not get any noise or response from the brake system.

Grandpadave-I know that my starter and solenoid are good. I removed both and had them tested at Pep Boys where I was told they were good. Not trusting the staff at this particular Pep Boys I took the starter to Autozone and had them put it on their machine. Again, good starter and solenoid.

Conrad-I will check out the under-hood power distribution box again. I haven't tested to see if it is getting power at the box and will do that tomorrow. I'm real confident on the battery status. I've metered them several times and always get 12.6+. I even had the AAA battery service out on the first day and he put his 'fancy dancy' battery tester on it and gave me a print out of the results. He said the chassis battery was as good as new.

Keep them coming, I really appreciate the help.

Tony
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Old 05-31-2012, 05:18 PM   #76
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Nope, the 150A goes to Jack and Generator Start Solenoids.
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Old 05-31-2012, 05:24 PM   #77
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Gentlemen, thank you for your help.

Dunner-I will try and get a couple of pics tomorrow when I get back out to MH. I found the under-hood panel you are talking about and pulled every fuse (some are 60amp honkers) and they all look good. In fact, I've even done this twice.
Tony
Tony, you say that about several things. There's a difference between looks good and are good.
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Old 05-31-2012, 07:20 PM   #78
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Did some research on my 2008 F53 - there are NO 150A fuses. From the battery, a cable is connected to the start solenoid and another cable is connected to a distribution stud. From the distribution stud, there are two parallel 12ga fusible links going to the battery junction box and two parallel 12ga fusible links going to the generator (alternator). In the battery distribution box are a number of fuses (pictured). F25 & F26 (40A) go to the ignition switch. A fusible link acts as an interputer for dead short to ground conditions. They either have continuity or are open. If the fusible links are compromised, then there is NO power to the battery distribution box and NOTHING will work. Hope this helps in some way.
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Old 05-31-2012, 07:37 PM   #79
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F25 & F26. The two orange ones to the right of the red 50A



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Old 05-31-2012, 07:45 PM   #80
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Tony, you say that about several things. There's a difference between looks good and are good.
Dunner, I don't know what to tell you. When I pulled each fuse they were shiny, unbroken, no burn marks and did not appear to have been blown. If you have a more definitive test to prove a fuse is good let me know.

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Old 05-31-2012, 07:49 PM   #81
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I always use a test light connected to ground. Sorry if I doubted your testing methods. If you have a test light, see if you are getting 12v to the fuses. That or a volt meter.
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Old 05-31-2012, 07:57 PM   #82
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I always use a test light connected to ground. Sorry if I doubted your testing methods. If you have a test light, see if you are getting 12v to the fuses. That or a volt meter.
No problem, you do have a point though. I'll try testing them with my volt meter tomorrow.

Tony
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Old 05-31-2012, 08:02 PM   #83
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Did some research on my 2008 F53 - there are NO 150A fuses. From the battery, a cable is connected to the start solenoid and another cable is connected to a distribution stud. From the distribution stud, there are two parallel 12ga fusible links going to the battery junction box and two parallel 12ga fusible links going to the generator (alternator). In the battery distribution box are a number of fuses (pictured). F25 & F26 (40A) go to the ignition switch. A fusible link acts as an interputer for dead short to ground conditions. They either have continuity or are open. If the fusible links are compromised, then there is NO power to the battery distribution box and NOTHING will work. Hope this helps in some way.
Ted, where did you get this information for your F53 chassis? Was it part of the Ford owner's manual? If so, I'll check out mine tomorrow at the MH and see if I can find those fuses (fusible links) between the battery and the distribution box under the hood. I'll also see if I can find the feed to the distribution box and test it to see if I have power at the box. I tested the cable from the battery to the solenoid yesterday and confirmed that I had power to the starter.

Tony
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Old 05-31-2012, 08:15 PM   #84
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Tony, PM me your email and I can send you the owner's manual right now. I looked at mine and it doesn't show the fusible links.

Never mind, I posted the link on page 5. You can download it yourself.
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