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Old 05-31-2012, 08:42 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teddyu View Post
Did some research on my 2008 F53 - there are NO 150A fuses. From the battery, a cable is connected to the start solenoid and another cable is connected to a distribution stud. From the distribution stud, there are two parallel 12ga fusible links going to the battery junction box and two parallel 12ga fusible links going to the generator (alternator). In the battery distribution box are a number of fuses (pictured). F25 & F26 (40A) go to the ignition switch. A fusible link acts as an interputer for dead short to ground conditions. They either have continuity or are open. If the fusible links are compromised, then there is NO power to the battery distribution box and NOTHING will work. Hope this helps in some way.
Nobody said anything about a 150 A fuse. There is a 150A breaker in the BCC, but it doesn't go to the chassis.

Whatever document you are looking at, I'd like to have it too.
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:01 PM   #86
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Silly question.

Have you tried the starter boot switch for the house battery or tied to jump it with cables or a booster box.
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:04 PM   #87
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When I bought my MH new, I was a member of the Ford Truck Forum. There was a link and I bought the wiring diagrams for a 2007 F53 motorhome chassis. Figured it would be pretty close to to 2008 chassis. It is a copy of a copy in .pdf format. I made a hard copy of each print (111 pages) on a 11" x 17" paper. Keep the prints in the MH and the .pdf on the computer. Haven't had much need for these until now. Used them to wire-in my TOAD. In my diagrams there is no 150 breaker to the battery distribution box. Haven't examined my MH yet. The battery disribution box is always hot. Cicruits off it can be switched by various relays and switches.


For your information, a 12ga fusible link is good for about 160A. Search for 12ga fusible links and you'll get a representation of what they look like - a piece of wire with butt splice on one end and a ring connector on the other. My bad concerning a fuse, should been breaker.
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:15 PM   #88
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I went nuts trying to figure out why my Dodge 2500 Cummins wasn't getting 12V to the start relay. Finally traced it back to the fusible link connected to the battery terminal. It looked good, but the ring connector was broke off behind another fusible link on battery terminal.
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:21 PM   #89
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Where did you come up with 160A for 12ga?

Scroll down to the bottom of this page and tell me what it says for 12 ga - 12v.

Wire Capacity Chart
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:35 PM   #90
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I don't have any suggestions but I am reading every post several times and will follow this discussion to the end. I have a Tiffin 2008 34TGA on a F53 chassis and I'm looking forward to the results of all the trouble shooting.

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Old 05-31-2012, 10:08 PM   #91
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I have the 2004 F53 chassis wiring diagrams.
Ford supplied what is called a Battery Junction Box that contains all chassis fuses and provides all power distribution. There is one primary "Hot at All Times" buss that the vast majority of items tap off of.
Ignition switch is supplied by 60 amp fuse F26 and 50 amp fuse F25. Start signal originates from F25 and is routed via ignition switch, Digital Transmission Range Switch, Starter relay to the starter motor solinoid.
Headlight switch is feed from fuse 30 amp fuse F27.

Given that all this is off the same buss and eveything on that buss does not have power the problem can only be the wiring from the battery to the Ford Battery Junction Box VIA the starter relay and Fusible Link "D". If I am reading the information correctly, there are 4 fusible links attached to the Starter relay. There are 2 red ones, one Grey and one tan/red. The offending "D" circuit link is the grey one. It appears they placed two 12 gauge fusible links in parrallel to support the 6 gauge wire attched to it. I think you will find it is either bad or the associated wiring from it to the "Always Hot" buss is open.

Additionally, the "D" circuit is a 6 gauge Black with Orange stripe wire .

Dave

Unless National ripped out all the Ford F53 wiring (highly doubtful) everyone is just chasing their tails folowing coach wiring paths as this is a chassis wiring problem.

Please note that I did not have the time to go through every post in this thread but the 2004 information I posted here for the most part lines up with the 2008 information posted on page 6. A few minor differences due to year model but others concept is the same.
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Old 05-31-2012, 10:09 PM   #92
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Dunner,

Look at this link: Electrical Issues - MiniMopar Resources. I mis-read the 12ga data - two 80A in parallel = 160a not 160a each. My bad.

Still think the issue is ground related.
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Old 05-31-2012, 10:41 PM   #93
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What does MiniMopar have to do with this Ford problem. I'm confused. I don't think it is a ground issue anymore.

I'm been past the coach wiring being the problem for quite a while.

Dave, where can I get the 2004 chassis wiring diagram? I just Googled it and got all sorts of hits except the right one. A lot of those sites that say: "Free Wiring Diagrams" that take you everywhere but there and end up wanting moneys.
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Old 05-31-2012, 10:56 PM   #94
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Try jumping across the big red wire and small red wire to see if the starter turns over. It's a process of elimination and that eliminates the starter and ground if the starter turns. Actually you would jump from the big red wire to the one below it on that starter.
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Old 05-31-2012, 10:59 PM   #95
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If his `03 starter motor is the same as my `04, then his should look like this.
Of course it has two connections. I just don't think the bottom one should be called
a "wire". More like a Buss. Tony said he cleaned the battery terminals. He wasn't
talking about these.

That looks more like a chevy starter...I thought it was the kind that had the solenoid mounted separate from the starter.
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Old 05-31-2012, 11:02 PM   #96
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Try jumping across the big red wire and small red wire to see if the starter turns over. It's a process of elimination and that eliminates the starter and ground if the starter turns. Actually you would jump from the big red wire to the one below it on that starter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nb141fd View Post
I tested the cable from the battery to the solenoid yesterday and confirmed that I had power to the starter.
Tony
If he shorts the thick red wire to the thin red wire, I guarantee you it will turn over, but not start.

If you jump the two big ones, the starter will just spin. To engage it and crank the motor you need to short the big > small.
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Old 05-31-2012, 11:09 PM   #97
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That looks more like a chevy starter...I thought it was the kind that had the solenoid mounted separate from the starter.

Don't go bad mouthing my dirty starter. (Actually, I hate Fords)
Digital cameras bring out the ugly in just about everything.
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Old 06-01-2012, 05:35 AM   #98
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Dunner,
I did the multiday thing at Helm Incorporated: Choose Product Category (source for actual mfg manuals) and downloaded the info a page at a time to disk. You can do that or purchase a full manual.

For this F53 application, Ford used both a Starter solinoid and a starter relay. There are 2 cables from the battery B+ post. 2 gauge to the starter solinoid (juice to turn the starter). The 2nd is a 4 guage cable (chassis power distribution) that goes to the starter relay.

Dave

PS, I do not have access to this information on my work computer so I can only answer based on memory during the day.
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