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Old 10-08-2013, 06:52 PM   #15
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Exactly, LOL
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Old 10-08-2013, 07:03 PM   #16
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I'm an electrician.
With your volt meter, the red and black wires should each have 120v on them from neutral (white) and 220 across the black & white.

The offending post relevant part is quoted above. I'm NOT an electrician but what you stated is wrong for RV 50 amp supply wiring. The red and the black wires are L1 and L2, the white is neutral and the green or bare is ground. So, if properly wired you wold get 220v across the red and the black. Across black and white should yield 110v. I think it was simply misstated.
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Old 10-08-2013, 07:03 PM   #17
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Go to page15 of the manual that YC1 posted, that shows what you should have, what it dosent show is the inverter or the generator and the automatic transfer switch, any of those can be the problem! " i can use smilys too", I only assume you have an inverter and a genny? If you do , you also have a transfer switch, that is were the shore power and the generator power come together in one box then the switching decides the one to send to the breaker box, you are obviously lossing one leg of power, now you say you've already used a volt meter, so you will check that red wire for power, to neutral for 110v, dont worry about the black if its the same phase it wont show any voltage and just get confusing, after you check it, start the generator and check it again, let us know what you find. If still no answer , try to find your transfer switch and post a pic,
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Old 10-08-2013, 07:11 PM   #18
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Why can't I see page two on this thread?????
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Old 10-08-2013, 07:22 PM   #19
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I'm an electrician.
With your volt meter, the red and black wires should each have 120v on them from neutral (white) and 220 across the black & white.

The offending post relevant part is quoted above. I'm NOT an electrician but what you stated is wrong for RV 50 amp supply wiring. The red and the black wires are L1 and L2, the white is neutral and the green or bare is ground. So, if properly wired you wold get 220v across the red and the black. Across black and white should yield 110v. I think it was simply misstated.

Then it's not really 50 amps. It was explained to me once that you have to have a 20 amp leg & a 30 amp leg that still doesn't make it 50 amp.
These rigs use a 50 amp 4 wire recep & cord. If it's wired at the "source" correctly you WILL get 220v leg to leg.
I AM an electrician & it is sometimes hard to convey to the DIYers.
They will never understand. It's like trying to explain computers to me, I'll never understand them.
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Old 10-08-2013, 07:32 PM   #20
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Then it's not really 50 amps. It was explained to me once that you have to have a 20 amp leg & a 30 amp leg that still doesn't make it 50 amp.
These rigs use a 50 amp 4 wire recep & cord. If it's wired at the "source" correctly you WILL get 220v leg to leg.
I AM an electrician & it is sometimes hard to convey to the DIYers.
They will never understand. It's like trying to explain computers to me, I'll never understand them.
Are you disagreeing with Kix? If so, then thousands of RV's and RV Park pedestals are wired wrong.
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Old 10-08-2013, 07:47 PM   #21
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why is page 2 blocked from view?
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Old 10-08-2013, 07:51 PM   #22
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Then it's not really 50 amps. It was explained to me once that you have to have a 20 amp leg & a 30 amp leg that still doesn't make it 50 amp. These rigs use a 50 amp 4 wire recep & cord. If it's wired at the "source" correctly you WILL get 220v leg to leg. I AM an electrician & it is sometimes hard to convey to the DIYers. They will never understand. It's like trying to explain computers to me, I'll never understand them.
Correct, but leg to leg is red to black, not white to black. White is neutral.
Red to neutral - 120v 50 amp
Black to neutral - 120v 50 amp
Red to black - 240v
30amp- black to white (neutral) 120v 120v 30 amp
Amp is limited by designed breaker
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Old 10-08-2013, 07:57 PM   #23
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Then it's not really 50 amps. It was explained to me once that you have to have a 20 amp leg & a 30 amp leg that still doesn't make it 50 amp.
These rigs use a 50 amp 4 wire recep & cord. If it's wired at the "source" correctly you WILL get 220v leg to leg.
I AM an electrician & it is sometimes hard to convey to the DIYers.
They will never understand. It's like trying to explain computers to me, I'll never understand them.
Sometimes it's difficult to explain to electricians too
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Old 10-08-2013, 08:08 PM   #24
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Question that I haven't seen asked. Is your cord cap that plugs into park electrical the black molded type? If so, you may want to check continuity between cord cap and wires in breaker box. Molded plug may have become disconnected on 1 leg, but agree with others. 1)It is not safe. 2) You need to have someone experienced look at it. Could be as simple of a fix to put on a new cord cap and re attach the red wire in breaker box, but only by one who is experienced. jmo
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Old 10-08-2013, 09:31 PM   #25
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I'm an electrician.
With your volt meter, the red and black wires should each have 120v on them from neutral (white) and 220 across the black & white. It looks like they may have an "open" on the red, so they just jumpered the black to the other side of the 2 pole 50 so as to power both busses in the panel. You don't have 220v now just 120 on both/either side of the panel. Won't hurt anything or be dangerous if the red wire is dead. But, if it were me, I'd find out why the red wire is dead.
It looks like romex coming into the panel. The red wire has probably come loose from the "prong" on the plug end.
I think you wrote down the wrong wire colors therefore the confusion.

Red & Black are HOT, White is Neutral and Green is ground.

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Why can't I see page two on this thread?????
There is no page #2 until the thread gets past post number 25 which is this one if I get done in time.

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Correct, but leg to leg is red to black, not white to black. White is neutral.
Red to neutral - 120v 50 amp
Black to neutral - 120v 50 amp
Red to black - 240v
30amp- black to white (neutral) 120v 120v 30 amp
Amp is limited by designed breaker
Winepress has written the correct information.

Ignore all of the previous written "stuff".

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 10-08-2013, 09:57 PM   #26
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Looking again at the photo from the OP.....
Romex? Still looking for that.
Looks like the black load line has been overloaded. The insulation looks deformed? Maybe just me?
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Old 10-08-2013, 10:14 PM   #27
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Reading your original post I noticed that you said you thought you were plugged into 30 amps. Why did you think that. What does the male plug on the end of your cable look like does it have 4 prongs or 3. One of the things that i am thinking without knowing the answer to my above question. If someone for some reason made your power cord into a 30 amp power cord by chaning the 4 prong 50 amp to a 3 prong 30 amp. They might have just hooked up the black 30 amp leg and the white neutral leg. Since you would not have anything hooked to the red leg they just left it bare ( really bad idea by the way) Since the coach was wired for two 50 amp inputs they ran the wire from the breaker the 30 amp (black) cable ran to over to the other breaker in order to power everything in the coach. I freely admit that this is pure guesswork since i do not know if you have a 4 prong plug or a 3 prong plug on the end of your cord but it would explain all the weird hookups in your breaker box.
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Old 10-08-2013, 10:17 PM   #28
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Thank you Richard, (Dr4Film) you have clarified some previous mistaken posts. An RV 50 amp service is 4 wires. Black and Red wires are 129 v 50 amp 'hot' leads. White is neutral, Green is ground. If you put meter on Black and White = 120 v. Red and White = 120 v. If the pedestal is properly wired, Black and Red = 240 v. The proper wiring has the Black and Red 180 out of phase, so you get 240 v and the two 'hots' don't overload the neutral because they are out of phase. RV 50 amp service is actually two 50 amp circuits, so the RV has the potential to use 100 amps of power if needed.

30 amp service is just that, 120 v 30 amps. Confusion and problems happen because a 30 amp outlet is similar to a 240 v Dryer or stove outlet in a house. Plugging in an RV 120 v 30 amp plug into the dryer outlet will result in much harm to the electrical system of the RV.

gemini5362, If the shore cord had been changed as you suggest, it still would have been wrong and dangerous to jumper from one 50 amp leg to the other with such a small gauge jumper... and leave the Red hot lead just loose in the box. All in all, it shows amateur wiring with little regard to safety.
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