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Old 10-08-2006, 12:51 PM   #1
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We are continuing our used motorhome search. I know people tend to ask more than they expect to sell for, but they are asking way over what my interpretation of NADA retail is. My guideline for what I should pay is what could I justify expecting to sell for if I had to. (We are looking at an immaculate 32-foot '99 Winnebago Adventurer with no slides, BTW.)

The difference seems to be in what are options and what are not. When NADA says that "*These prices include generator, water heater, roof air, awning and TV" I can assume that it does not include a microwave and levelers, for example. I would think that it WOULD include a stove, refrigerator, a battery, smoke detector, etc. Is EVERYTHING an option?

Anyhow, does anyone here have a clue what's right? Maybe there's someone out there that has bought a new one and can tell me what are "options." (Maybe someone bought a unit similar to this, in fact.)

Thanks in advance,

Hack
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Old 10-08-2006, 12:51 PM   #2
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We are continuing our used motorhome search. I know people tend to ask more than they expect to sell for, but they are asking way over what my interpretation of NADA retail is. My guideline for what I should pay is what could I justify expecting to sell for if I had to. (We are looking at an immaculate 32-foot '99 Winnebago Adventurer with no slides, BTW.)

The difference seems to be in what are options and what are not. When NADA says that "*These prices include generator, water heater, roof air, awning and TV" I can assume that it does not include a microwave and levelers, for example. I would think that it WOULD include a stove, refrigerator, a battery, smoke detector, etc. Is EVERYTHING an option?

Anyhow, does anyone here have a clue what's right? Maybe there's someone out there that has bought a new one and can tell me what are "options." (Maybe someone bought a unit similar to this, in fact.)

Thanks in advance,

Hack
--//--
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Old 10-08-2006, 01:12 PM   #3
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Hi Hack,
I purchased a new 2004 Winnebago Adventurer and the only options were;
Workhorse Chassi,Dinette,Ice maker, Surround sound system, DVD/VCR Stereo, Power sun visiors, Defroster fans, Inverter-DC/AC 300 Watt, Satellite dish, Electric awning, Power drivers seat, Color rear view camers, Leather seats, 50AMP system and shower package for a total of $11138.00.
Everything else was standard.
Hope this helps you.
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Old 10-08-2006, 02:14 PM   #4
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When using the online NADA pricing guide do not enter any options. Only enter the mileage and only for a gas coach.

I would go a little over low retail if the coach was exceptional. If average I'd make an offer under retail.

The seller will only get wholesale if he trades it in or sells it to a dealer.

Many owners value their coach higher than they are actually worth because they over paid when they purchased it.

99 32' Adventurer with no mileage adjust. Low retail ~$23,000 Average retail ~$27,500.

I would make an intial offer less the $23,000. If the owner will not sell leave your phone number and go home. I assume you have cash and mention that fact to the seller. No slide coaches are not easy to sell, motorhome sales are currently in the basement and winter is coming. It's a buyers market.

You'll probably need 6 new tires so that is also a factor.
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Old 10-08-2006, 05:19 PM   #5
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Tom N:
When using the online NADA pricing guide do not enter any options. Only enter the mileage and only for a gas coach.

I would go a little over low retail if the coach was exceptional. If average I'd make an offer under retail.

The seller will only get wholesale if he trades it in or sells it to a dealer.

Many owners value their coach higher than they are actually worth because they over paid when they purchased it.

99 32' Adventurer with no mileage adjust. Low retail ~$23,000 Average retail ~$27,500.

I would make an intial offer less the $23,000. If the owner will not sell leave your phone number and go home. I assume you have cash and mention that fact to the seller. No slide coaches are not easy to sell, motorhome sales are currently in the basement and winter is coming. It's a buyers market.

You'll probably need 6 new tires so that is also a factor. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>


I'll side with Tom on this.

The average and low retail from NADA are what you may expect to pay at a dealer with some form of service and warranty.
A private sale would have to come in somewhere between low retail and trade in value. I see people all the time trying to sell rigs by private sale at high retail NADA. The sit for months or years until they get a reality check or someone comes along who dosn't know any better.
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Old 10-08-2006, 06:41 PM   #6
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Tom & Neal are right on. Few of the things you mentioned are options on any models. NADA lists all kinds of options because they use the same list for all RVs, regardless of year or model, but cautions that you should only consider those that are extras on the particular one you are considering.

More important, "Options" aren't really worth a penny on RVs - you won't get adime extra for most of them. At best, they make the RV a bit more attractive to potential buyers, but they don't shell out extra cash for them. Especially on older models.

So forget about adding in options - just enter the mielage and go straight to the price. Then offer low retail or maybe even less for your first bid.
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Old 10-08-2006, 09:37 PM   #7
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I agree with Tom's post.
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Old 10-09-2006, 06:12 AM   #8
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ehackney;

Please post a note here telling us how you make out if you make an offer on the 32-foot '99 Winnebago Adventurer.

Thanks and good luck.
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Old 10-09-2006, 02:57 PM   #9
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We watched lots of eBay auctions to get a feel for the real price people were paying. We got a figure in mind and then waited until we found what we wanted. The agreement with my wife was that we had to see, smell, and feel it in person before making an offer. We looked at scores or hundreds on dealers lots, so when we happened to find the right one from an individual, we knew it. Their price was right where we wanted to be, so we made the deal. Good luck, make lists of what you want and don't want, and you'll find the rig for you.
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Old 10-11-2006, 11:38 AM   #10
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You also need to factor in anything you may have to replace right away like tires and batteries. Tires should be replaced after 6 years regardless of mileage and the same thing with the house and chassis batteries.
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Old 10-11-2006, 09:51 PM   #11
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This is long. Sorry.

Wow, you guys are tough!

I understand the viewpoint of "not including any options" in the offered price then offering low retail, but I gotta' say it doesn't make much sense to me.

1. That says if two units were sitting side by side - one with just the basics and the other with leveling jacks, leather seats, a driver's door, and on and on - they would be worth the same.

2. I assume that the NADA prices are based on what units SELL for.

Does anyone have any experience buying or selling a used RV using low retail with no options rule?

That said, I believe that most used RV sellers start off way too high. I think they tend to check off everying on the option list they can, rather than true "options," i.e., the stuff that you have to pay extra for when the unit is new.

So, here's my idea. First find out what the NADA average and low retail are. This is not necessarily easy, since it's hard to find out what the "options" are unless you have the original invoice. IF you can get a good idea of what retail is, figure that wholesale is about 75% of that. I believe that, for a sale between individuals, the right price is about half way between wholesale (what the seller could theoretically get from a used RV dealer) and retail (what the buyer would have to pay at a used RV dealer).

As best I can figure using average retail, that comes out to a little over $30K for this coach. Since the coach is about as near perfect as it can get, I could probably justify bumping that a little, but the seller is asking $43K. My wife and I are almost convinced that a non-slide will work for us. If so, we will probably make the offer. Hopefully if I explain my rationale the seller will at least consider it.

BTW: Tires, batteries and the difficulty of selling a non-slide RV are all good points.

Best regards,

Hack
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Old 10-11-2006, 10:51 PM   #12
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My take on this. I consider what it is worth to me after research. If my offer is not accepted I will walk away from it. There are to many out there to think I will not locate what I want eventually.
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Old 10-12-2006, 01:12 AM   #13
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by ehackney:
This is long. Sorry.

Wow, you guys are tough!

I understand the viewpoint of "not including any options" in the offered price then offering low retail, but I gotta' say it doesn't make much sense to me.

1. That says if two units were sitting side by side - one with just the basics and the other with leveling jacks, leather seats, a driver's door, and on and on - they would be worth the same.

2. I assume that the NADA prices are based on what units SELL for.

Does anyone have any experience buying or selling a used RV using low retail with no options rule?

That said, I believe that most used RV sellers start off way too high. I think they tend to check off everying on the option list they can, rather than true "options," i.e., the stuff that you have to pay extra for when the unit is new.

So, here's my idea. First find out what the NADA average and low retail are. This is not necessarily easy, since it's hard to find out what the "options" are unless you have the original invoice. IF you can get a good idea of what retail is, figure that wholesale is about 75% of that. I believe that, for a sale between individuals, the right price is about half way between wholesale (what the seller could theoretically get from a used RV dealer) and retail (what the buyer would have to pay at a used RV dealer).

As best I can figure using average retail, that comes out to a little over $30K for this coach. Since the coach is about as near perfect as it can get, I could probably justify bumping that a little, but the seller is asking $43K. My wife and I are almost convinced that a non-slide will work for us. If so, we will probably make the offer. Hopefully if I explain my rationale the seller will at least consider it.

BTW: Tires, batteries and the difficulty of selling a non-slide RV are all good points.

Best regards,

Hack
--//-- </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Hack,

On a 99 with no slides even if it was like new a dealer would be happy to get 85% of average retail. That would be a bit over $26,000 with some kind of warrenty. On a private sale I would subtract 20% from the $26,000 which would bring it in at about $22,000.

Remember you are only talking about a 32 footer with no slides here.

If the seller is upside down in his financing on the coach that is too bad and really the results of a mistake on his part however you should not be expected to bail him out by paying way too much.
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Old 10-20-2006, 02:28 PM   #14
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Have read these posts with interest. Would like to add that when we were in Florida this February at La Mesa RV in Tampa, our salesman mentioned that management had informed the salesmen to offer only 50% of wholesale for any unit without slides. We were trading in an '03 unit with two slides, so he wasn't just saying that to us to offer us a lower trade in.

I would say that if one is willing to go without slides, you can really get a good coach out there at a very reasonable price. Just don't be in a hurry. It's a buyer's market. Based on what we were told, I'd want to start no higher than 50%of retail for a no-slide coach. You can always come up a little for an immaculate coach. Just let them try to sell it to a dealer. Not many are interested, as they know it is a hard sell.

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