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06-19-2019, 11:33 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Capistrano Beach, California
Posts: 4,465
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These are the Oscar or tri fold rivets I mentioned--I believe Oscar is a brand name. Notice how much holding power they will provide behind a thin material like a fiberglass or aluminum skin. Again, not cheap but available and work just like a pop rivet and do not need a washer behind the wall.
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Larry, Eileen, and Finley
2004 Alpine 36FDDS
Third motor home, first Alpine, no need for another.
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06-19-2019, 12:13 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 1,150
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Nutserts are the same theory, except the pin in the middle unscrews when the rivet is in place, leaving a threaded socket for a screw.
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06-19-2019, 12:23 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 565
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I would probably use well nuts to reattach.
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Dan
2014 Berkshire 390RB
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06-19-2019, 12:27 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 565
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These 
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Dan
2014 Berkshire 390RB
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06-19-2019, 12:46 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Capistrano Beach, California
Posts: 4,465
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Yes, well nuts will work as well, and are especially good if the item being attached needs to be removed. They will make a water tight seal when affixed, but there will be a slight gap between the base of the object and the sidewall as the only contact points will be the well nuts. That could result in the ability of the attached item to move under stress and work itself loose or tear the rubber grommet. This may or may not be an issue, but it is something to consider.
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Larry, Eileen, and Finley
2004 Alpine 36FDDS
Third motor home, first Alpine, no need for another.
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06-19-2019, 01:06 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 2,392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dav L
geees, these are pop rivits. Plain ole pop rivits that get used for this purpose all the time by manufacturers....
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Not really. 'Standard' pop rivets leave a hole in the middle, which as you mentioned require something to waterproof them.
These are a slightly different type of rivet which leaves the center hole filled smoothly with the surface of the rivet. I believe that these are called blind rivets.
A 'standard' pop rivet will probably work, but using the correct rivet for the task is preferable, both for strength and for functions such as protection against water intrusion.
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Richard
1994 Excella 25-ft (Gertie)
1999 Suburban LS 2500 w/7.4L V8
1974 GMC 4108a - Custom Coach Land Cruiser
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06-19-2019, 03:41 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,772
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Need help - How do I remove this type of exterior screw.
Due to some ‘unforeseen’ incidences I have a couple of swivel hooks that look like this  instead of this  . These hold a bra on the front cap. Can anyone tell me what type of rivet was used or should be used? 
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Terry & Alice
2006 Bounder 38L DP
2012 GMC Terrain
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06-19-2019, 03:45 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,772
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Sorry, not enough information. Here is pic with fastener showing 
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Terry & Alice
2006 Bounder 38L DP
2012 GMC Terrain
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06-19-2019, 04:25 PM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 3,296
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^^. They are pop rivets. Does your front slide open? I replace my rivets with same size stainless screws, washers and nuts. That way when those swivels break you can more easily replace them.
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06-19-2019, 09:04 PM
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#38
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Metamora, MI
Posts: 5,525
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richard5933
Not really. 'Standard' pop rivets leave a hole in the middle, which as you mentioned require something to waterproof them.
These are a slightly different type of rivet which leaves the center hole filled smoothly with the surface of the rivet. I believe that these are called blind rivets.
A 'standard' pop rivet will probably work, but using the correct rivet for the task is preferable, both for strength and for functions such as protection against water intrusion.
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Ah, no, the rivets in the OP's picture IS a standard pop rivet. The hole in the middle is there, just plugged with the remains of the stud. If he smacked it with a small drift from front to backside, it would be an open hole.
Look closer at the pic.
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2002 Newmar Mountain Aire Limited 4370 w/ Spartan K2 and Cummins 500hp
ASE Master Certified (a long.....time ago...)
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06-19-2019, 09:07 PM
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#39
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Metamora, MI
Posts: 5,525
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firedoc
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That looks like another standard pop rivet. Those might be 1/8" long ones.
Oh...another trick: When drilling out a rivet, push out the center from front to back...then using the rivet's correct sized drill, drill out the top. Now, most of the time after a second, the rivet will spin with the drill. When this happens, drill on an angle to the head which will cut the head off. Then, the shaft of the rivet will push into the RV without the rivet having elongated the hole due to the shaft spinning.
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2002 Newmar Mountain Aire Limited 4370 w/ Spartan K2 and Cummins 500hp
ASE Master Certified (a long.....time ago...)
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06-19-2019, 09:08 PM
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#40
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Metamora, MI
Posts: 5,525
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ljwt330
These are the Oscar or tri fold rivets I mentioned--I believe Oscar is a brand name. Notice how much holding power they will provide behind a thin material like a fiberglass or aluminum skin. Again, not cheap but available and work just like a pop rivet and do not need a washer behind the wall.
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Those are cool rivets. Would be good for an oversized hole. Gotta get me some of those for inventory.
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2002 Newmar Mountain Aire Limited 4370 w/ Spartan K2 and Cummins 500hp
ASE Master Certified (a long.....time ago...)
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06-27-2019, 03:15 PM
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#41
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 20
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You are right, they are pop rivets
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06-27-2019, 03:50 PM
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#42
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Senior Member
Commercial Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Akron, Ohio
Posts: 2,785
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunny1
Thank you all! This site is fantastic. Six replies within just a few minutes.
I’m going to grab my drill and go to work.
Out of curiosity, is there a reason they’d use pop rivets instead of regular screws?
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Faster & Cheaper
__________________
Retired Design & Quality Tire Eng. 40+ years experience. Recognized in the industry and in court as an expert in failed tire inspection as I have performed thousands of failed tire "autopsies".
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