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Old 05-10-2012, 10:54 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Dunner View Post
Well Norm, just like your signature says... What kinda stunt are you pulling now.

Whatever you're doing, either buy a lottery ticket or put a patent on it.

Did I mention I was driving backwards?

Well one thing in my favor is if it is true it explains why Challenger37's rear wheels turned when he had the parking brake on. I haven't read anything else that does so far.

As far as a flexible rear brake line question I haven't the foggiest notion, if you were asking me? Would it apply to this situation if so how?
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Old 05-10-2012, 11:08 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by demoon View Post
Is there any part of your rear brake line that is flexible hose?
Any vehicle with a front or rear suspension has a flexible brake hose or hoses. Usually only one, near the center of the differential. Independent front or rear suspension will usually have two.
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Old 05-10-2012, 11:36 PM   #17
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OK, OK, it's late, it's chilly outside, I am in my bare feet. But I am so intrigued by my own dilemea that I went out and looked under the MH.

Just aft of the transmission is a cylinder; looks like a small brake drum which I suppose it is. It has a mechanical arm which with some deductive reasoning I can assume goes to the parking brake. So the parking brake stops the drive shaft. Which I kind of understood all along but did not think of it until this thread.

Now since my experience was very real; how come when I drove with my parking brake partially applied my front brakes overheated? The disks were in excess of 300 degrees. Rear brakes were a normal 90 degrees or so which you would expect in a normal stop.

Any ideas on the cause?
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Old 05-11-2012, 03:07 AM   #18
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90s? The high in Phx today was 94. You're stopping what? 12+ tons by squeezing 4 rotating disks between brake material.

Not making fun of you Norm, but put down the bottle or share; you're not thinking straight. If anything 300 would be normal. You boil eggs at 212.

Having the parking brake ON should make no difference in the disk temperatures. The calipers don't know the parking brake is ON. 300 is not even hot enough to blue the disks. Ever watch short track NASCAR where the disks glow red? Now, that's over-heating the brakes.

The rubber flex hoses can sometimes deteriorate internally, but they usually keep pressure ON the disks by not letting fluid flow back to the master cylinder. There is hundreds, if not thousands of psi of brake fluid going to the calipers when you press on the brake pedal. Bleed the rear brakes and see if there is sufficient flow to both calipers. I sounds like your rear brakes are not working properly.
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Old 05-11-2012, 08:53 AM   #19
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Dunner's right about the brakes and coach weight.

Brakes are actually energy convertors. Energy can not be created or destroyed; only change it's state. The energy in your fuel was transformed into the inertia of the coach at the speed it was traveling. When you brake, the kinetic energy of the coach is transformed into heat by the brakes.

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90s? The high in Phx today was 94. You're stopping what? 12+ tons by squeezing 4 rotating disks between brake material.

Not making fun of you Norm, but put down the bottle or share; you're not thinking straight. If anything 300 would be normal. You boil eggs at 212.

Having the parking brake ON should make no difference in the disk temperatures. The calipers don't know the parking brake is ON. 300 is not even hot enough to blue the disks. Ever watch short track NASCAR where the disks glow red? Now, that's over-heating the brakes.

The rubber flex hoses can sometimes deteriorate internally, but they usually keep pressure ON the disks by not letting fluid flow back to the master cylinder. There is hundreds, if not thousands of psi of brake fluid going to the calipers when you press on the brake pedal. Bleed the rear brakes and see if there is sufficient flow to both calipers. I sounds like your rear brakes are not working properly.
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Old 05-11-2012, 09:09 AM   #20
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There should be equal or almost equal pressure going to each caliper. It's normal for the brake manufacturer to bias the braking to the front. You have more traction on the front tires, so more braking is possible.
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Old 05-11-2012, 10:38 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Dunner View Post
Any vehicle with a front or rear suspension has a flexible brake hose or hoses. Usually only one, near the center of the differential. Independent front or rear suspension will usually have two.
Only mentioned that because after three attempts at fixing a hanging brake on my coach, a passerby suggested to the mechanic, try the brakes with the flex hose on but disconnected from the caliper - dribble - took it off completely - brake fluid across the garage.
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Old 05-11-2012, 10:47 AM   #22
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There should be equal or almost equal pressure going to each caliper. It's normal for the brake manufacturer to bias the braking to the front. You have more traction on the front tires, so more braking is possible.
Dunner: I appreciate all this attention, I really do. I'm in my usual good humor. However, I'm not letting you guys off that easy, even though your analysis makes sense. And to humor you and to reassure myself I will check or have my brakes checked just to be sure.

You need some more facts.

To shorten the story, I found myself in a position waiting in a line where I instictively must have put my foot on the parking brake. After waiting there quite a long time (cooling time for brakes) I decided to take the next gas exit about six miles down the road, flat road , easy off ramp virtually no braking involved at all. I entered the next station with just a tap on the brakes and coasted in. But as I was heading down to the pumps both my wife and I smelled that awful brake smell. I wondered what poor soul had smoked his brakes, then looked down to see my parking brake partially set. I released it and basically coasted into the gas pump. Again very light braking I was going two miles per hour at that point. I exited my MH and smelled the front brakes.

That is when I grabbed my infrared thermometer and checked the brake temperatures and found the difference, it is also why the rear brakes did not have much heat build up, because I hardly braked at all.

This occured at the end of a trip of about 4000 miles which included a trip through the Syskiyous (I go there often) and throught the mountain between Tucson and San Diego and up and down the Grapevine and the grade just outside of Paso Robles on 101 (I have forgotten the name). Never, ever have I smelled that smell from my brakes under any circumstances.

After this occurance I did the Syskiyous, no problem no unusual heat build up.

I really believe if my rear brakes are not working I would have experienced this problem, or detected it at some point along the way. And my MH stops just fine, has had the brake recalls etc;

So, although I will have my brakes checked (and if they are not working in the rear you will be the second person to know) I think there is a mystery here. Or perhaps it is I who is senile since the OP is off the hook.

I'll admit I never considered that my rear brakes may not be working properly because in ten years I only have the one experience that would even hint at it and I drove all those hilly miles home without any problem and I had the parking brake applied part way when the problem occured. Maybe I have too much information.

If I check and find my rear brakes deficient I will have you to thank for raising the issue, but I'm not ready to plead insanity/ignorance just yet either.
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Old 05-11-2012, 12:22 PM   #23
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Like I mentioned, rubber brake lines can deteriorate and cause a blockage. Usually, it keeps the pads from retracting all the way and drag, which creates heat. The chances of both your front rubber lines failing at the same time, causing both to grab all the time are very slim. Most of your braking is with the front wheels.

It's easy to check for yourself and a friend. Have friend start engine. Go to the rear caliber of choice. With a 1/4, 5/16 or 10mm box end wrench, loosen the bleeder valve while friend is pressing on pedal. If you open it up enough 1/2 - 1 turn, you should get a solid stead stream of fluid. There's also a chance that you have air in the rear brake lines. In that case, it will bubble as the fluid comes out. A couple bubbles are ok, but constant bubbling in bad. Close the valve before friend releases the pedal. Have him pump the brakes a few times and try again. Make sure the master cylinder reservoir is full. That may be all that is wrong with your rear brakes. Good luck. Use clear water to wash off any brake fluid on painted and other surfaces. It will eat paint.
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Old 05-11-2012, 12:23 PM   #24
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Dunner!!! I'm like the guy who waited all night to see the sunrise----finally it dawned on me.

We are both right and both wrong because we both have bad information.

First of all, my brakes are fine, I am sure of it because they preform just as they are supposed to up hill and down and I stop very well.

Second, what I smelled was not my brakes at all. It was the small brake lining (same thing) in the drum of my parking brake. It's located up front and since I had never given much thought to where it was or how my parking brake worked I concluded the smell was my front brake linings.

Third, you are absolutely correct 385 degrees is not much at all for brakes but the reason I measured so much less in the rear was I actually did not hit the disc with the thermometer, I was measuring my wheel temp instead.

Fourth, I did not give any of this any thought until this thread and the guy says his rear wheels turn when his parking brake is applied, so I thought back and said son of a gun maybe they do work on the front brakes after all. That's how I got into this mess.

And I did it all sober.

Case closed.
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Old 05-11-2012, 12:32 PM   #25
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Like I mentioned, rubber brake lines can deteriorate and cause a blockage. Usually, it keeps the pads from retracting all the way and drag, which creates heat. The chances of both your front rubber lines failing at the same time, causing both to grab all the time are very slim. Most of your braking is with the front wheels.

It's easy to check for yourself and a friend. Have friend start engine. Go to the rear caliber of choice. With a 1/4, 5/16 or 10mm box end wrench, loosen the bleeder valve while friend is pressing on pedal. If you open it up enough 1/2 - 1 turn, you should get a solid stead stream of fluid. There's also a chance that you have air in the rear brake lines. In that case, it will bubble as the fluid comes out. A couple bubbles are ok, but constant bubbling in bad. Close the valve before friend releases the pedal. Have him pump the brakes a few times and try again. Make sure the master cylinder reservoir is full. That may be all that is wrong with your rear brakes. Good luck. Use clear water to wash off any brake fluid on painted and other surfaces. It will eat paint.
I'll check my brakes just for drill but I think I thought this out and I am fine; read my latest post. I really really thank you for your willingness to help. Always good to see you in the threads.

By the way it would have been Makers Mark if I was sharing.
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Old 05-11-2012, 12:33 PM   #26
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I'll by that. Improper reporting of the actual conditions.
yourself.

I had a Toyota Land Cruiser that also had the parking brake on the drive shaft. I parked in my driveway and set the brake and didn't put it in gear. I took my other truck to go shopping and when I came back, my Toyota was sitting the middle of the street. The drum/shoes cooled off and released the tension on the drum and my vehicle rolled down my driveway. The same thing happened a couple weeks later. I don't learn to fast.
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Old 05-11-2012, 12:33 PM   #27
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One final thought to the original OP, if you had your parking brake on and it secured your drive shaft how could your rear wheels turn? MAybe I should have quit qhile I was behind, but still ?
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Old 05-11-2012, 12:39 PM   #28
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Re-read my first post #7. With both rear wheels off the ground and the drive shaft locked, the wheel will turn through the differential gears, only the opposite wheel will turn in the opposite direction. The only time they will both turn in the same direction, is if there is a locking or limited slip differential, and the drive shaft can not be locked or be in gear.
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