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Old 11-18-2011, 01:12 AM   #1
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Need to slide rear of RV 10 feet south

I would never even consider this as it seems not a great idea but here goes: WORKHOUSE 22 CHASSIS 8.1 GAS (rear drive) 04 Allegro 35DA.

The city I live in has rules as to parking an RV. 2 people complained about RV's.... 45 showed up to oppose ordinance. It passed anyway. 2 people out of a population of 30,000.

I lost my parking because the RV, parked on my property, can be seen from the street. Another nearby city does not care if it can be seen as long as you pay them a permission fee.

I have one location left but I can not drive directly to it as the turn is too tight. I can get IN at a 45 degree angle. If I could lift up the rear end I could move THE REAR enough (5 or 10 feet) I could then drive forward.

IF THE WHEELS WERE NOT ON THE GROUND and a form of CASTOR WHEELS were supporting the weight I could use an electric trailer mover to slide it the 10 feet. Then drive to the available legal space.

Assume LEVEL ASPHALT. One person in drivers seat as my brake buddy.

CASTORING WHEELS connected to 2 hitch receivers PLACED AT CORNERS which are seriously attached to the frame AND a 3rd CASTORING WHEEL in the exisiting receiver.
REAR wheels now off the ground.

I would like to think 3 castoring steel wheels (properly attached) would do no damage to the RV for this 10 foot move.

I would like to get some opinions not as to what I want to do
but opinions if doing what I suggest would damage the RV.

Thanks in advance
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Old 11-18-2011, 02:51 AM   #2
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I've seen people do it in their garages to move the MH around, in fact there is a post on here with pics of a mh on casters. Seems like it was in a thread on new garages.

Can't see any harm as long as the front end lets the rear end pivot and the coach doesn't get away from you.
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Old 11-18-2011, 02:55 AM   #3
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Here they are in this thread. Post 23 has the pictures and post 25 gives the info on building them.

Pictures of MH garages
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Old 11-18-2011, 03:00 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdennislee View Post
I've seen people do it in their garages to move the MH around, in fact there is a post on here with pics of a mh on casters. Seem like it was in a thread on new garages.

Can't see any harm as long as the front end lets the rear end pivot.
This method you describe would be superior to what the OP was considering. After lifting the RV with the jacks, put 4 such casters underneath and bring up the jacks so the RV rests on casters for both front and rear. I remember the postings you refer to. The person employing this method in his garage said that it was a one-person operation to move the RV on casters.

However, I don't think it would work well on asphalt (too rough a surface). I would use a smooth concrete. Also, leveling the pad would be critical because once on casters, you wouldn't want a "run away" RV.

Good luck.
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Old 11-18-2011, 08:06 AM   #5
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I'm not feeling your initial plan although I think you should be able to swing the RV like you want to, if you use use dollies under the wheels and your location is truly level. You might be able to get away with just the rear axle. But, and this is a BIG BUT, focusing the weight on 4 dolly wheels (8 total) will probably dig into your asphalt, especially in the summer. Even if you can get it to move, you'd have to get the weight off the dollies immediately after you've swung the unit around because I'm sure the wheels will sink into the asphalt. Now, if you can put in some concrete, you could probably even leave the unit on the dollies until you have to move it again.
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Old 11-18-2011, 09:20 AM   #6
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The tire skates work great on SMOOTH solid concrete
Yes one person can easily move it - again smooth
Even brush finished concrete makes it very difficult to move
Remember mine is a small "A" as in 27ft and only weights 15K lbs
As others stated I doubt they would work on asphalt
Summer heat makes things ever worse
If / when I park on asphalt in the sun on the driveway I always put 3ft square 1/2" plywood sheets under the tires and never use the skates

Sorry to hear you can not park your rig on your own property
There has to be a better idea than the skates
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Old 11-18-2011, 10:31 AM   #7
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Can you put up a 10' section of PVC fence so no one can see it from the road? That really sucks. The cost of the dolly's is big while the chance of them working is slim. Maybe time to go full time....
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Old 11-18-2011, 10:45 AM   #8
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Dollies made for moving trucks, cars ect.


GoJak 5000 - Vehicle Moving Jack | AW Direct
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Old 11-18-2011, 02:39 PM   #9
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I think it's going to be VERY difficult to move that motorhome 1 foot, let alone 10 feet (if you have any doubts, just think of the type of tow truck you'd need to move it). We have a 2000 lbs boat and it's really hard for 2 people to move that by hand (granted it's got a dual axle trailer which makes it a bit harder to move). If this was to work, you'd also need to raise the front wheels - you will not be able to pivot it with 8000lbs or so on the front axle on the ground.

You'd probably need something like the previous poster listed but those are only for 1500 lbs, you'll probably need 4000lbs on each wheel (they probably also wouldn't work on the duallies which are too close together). And even if you could get something like that, as someone else mentioned, if it was on concrete you might be able to do it but I don't think there's anyway it can be done by hand on asphalt.

As far as your plan, I do not think it's reasonable to reinforce the hitch and rear area (assuming that's what you mean by 'at the corners') to carry the 15,000 lbs or so that your rear axle carries (especially since that rear axle is really closer to the middle of the frame, not at the end so the load is distributed).

I know you weren't asking opinions on the plan itself but I think there's no way it can be done and even if you could do it (technically, you could get something that could lift the back of mh), you would certainly cause damage to the frame / house - the back of the frame (or the front) simply isn't made to take anywhere near that much weight. As someone else suggested, your best option is to build a longer fence - even if you have to take it down and put it back up every time you move the mh, it's probably a better option.
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Old 11-18-2011, 03:32 PM   #10
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we lived in a place once that was on the gulf coast only minutes from the bay...hence everyone had a large fishing boat or a boat capable of being at sea

they had a funny neighborhood restriction about "NOT BEING ABLE TO SEE YOU BOAT FROM THE STREET"
it could be in your backyard or side yard behind a fence, but still no t be able to be seen from the street.
my boat was over 24ft long and large.
so i had my fence double gated at 6 feet tall, with 4 inches of rolling clearance under the gate
and purchased a plastic canvass metal pole portable carport ( 2 ea)
and parked said offending boat under them
then i purchased some plastic native climbing plants and used them to camouflage the front of the carports and their legs ( made the legs look like pine trees complete with bushy tops) that could be seen from the street, and the canvass roofing material i used a camo brown and green tarp. it looked like a big duck blind when it was done
truth be known you could only see about 3 feet of the structure from the street, before the camo treatment
the front curtain was a print of foliage from a .......shower curtain

it blended right into the surrounding trees and tall foliage, so well the horses rear that was complaining thanked me one afternoon for removing my boat.
so where there is a gray area......exploit it to the maximum in your favor

stand your ground


oh my i love the "permission fees"
where we live now your required to pay the developer 10 a year for a piece of paper giving you permission to have a rv on your property or driveway

lived here 7 years now and after the first screwing i simply stopped paying it.
every now and then i get a letter telling me my rv has been here over 14 days and i must move it....
so i ask if they are stalking me.....and know my comings and goings.....then it stops for a a year or so
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Old 11-18-2011, 05:09 PM   #11
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stand your ground


oh my i love the "permission fees"
where we live now your required to pay the developer 10 a year for a piece of paper giving you permission to have a rv on your property or driveway

lived here 7 years now and after the first screwing i simply stopped paying it.
every now and then i get a letter telling me my rv has been here over 14 days and i must move it....
so i ask if they are stalking me.....and know my comings and goings.....then it stops for a a year or so
Love this approach I firmly believe in not letting anyone tell me what I can and cannot park in my drive way. I have my Class A and Class C (until it sells) in my driveway now.
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Old 11-18-2011, 09:16 PM   #12
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It's a slower process, but mobile home movers use a platform that the tires set on, using a handcrank or air wrench moves a couple of feet at a time. If your jacks can lift the rear axle off the ground, this would not be as painfully slow, or can even be driven onto the platform. The front does not need to be lifted off the ground, as the front will pivot with the MH. Also the platform is designed for soft ground, it will not sink into the pavement or allow the MH to roll away like casters can, making it a one person job.
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Old 11-18-2011, 09:43 PM   #13
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I did a quick search, but could not find the set up that I have seen used before, but here is something kinda close, but it uses the frame instead of the tires to move the load. Low-Profile Systems
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Old 11-18-2011, 11:24 PM   #14
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What does the city say about a fence? If there is a height restriction, get a front-end loader and did out a pad deep enough to make the fence height work. I would try my best to do something that would make them come up with another "rule". Did the city address a "grandfather it in" rule or just ignore what was acceptable in the past?
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