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Old 08-07-2013, 05:35 PM   #15
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Hey thanks!! I do recall locating a circuit board in plastic housing just above the engine. It had the terminals for the house battery sticking out of it and going down to where the house battery sits. Pulled the negative battery terminal. The motor still runs, but there is no juice to the house 12 volt system when battery is disconnected. Looks like Fleetwood put both the car and house batteries in the engine compartment. So it looks likes the circuitry and alternator make up the isolater assembly. Thanks for your help!!! Very smart indeed.

Originally Posted by ahicks View Post
Well, to prove your theory and find out which of those wires is coming from the alternator, unplug the coach, disconnect the house battery, start the engine, and see if anything in that area has power? To confirm, turn the motor off and that wire/circuit should go dead.

If I were looking for an isolator, I'd be looking up under the hood? If you do find a wire at/near the convertor (as described above), the other end will likely originate from there. -Al

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Old 08-07-2013, 11:42 PM   #16
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Sounds then like you might very farmiliar with 87 Bounder's electrical systems?
If so any advice and help you can give would be exetremly helpful.
Thank You

Originally Posted by ahicks View Post
I'm thinking we're on the same page, but coming from different directions? Not disagreeing with a word you're saying, only the concept that I might be suggesting something that might harm the alt.

I worked as a service manager in a large RV dealership from the early seventies until 1990. I've worked on my share of these? -Al

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Old 08-08-2013, 06:02 AM   #17
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Though I have extensive experience with Pace Arrow and Southwind, my knowledge of the Bounder will be generic. I can tell you that both the relay type isolator as well as the large finned diode type islolator were in use when your coach was built. I can also tell you your coach was built using one or the other? It's pretty safe to say you do have an isolator - or you did originally anyway.

You should be aware of the potential that whatever it was built with originally could be radically different than what's there now, though functionally identical!

If you can use a test light and or a voltmeter, there's no rocket science involved. It's pretty easy to figure out as long as you aren't shy about getting your hands dirty.

What, exactly, has you curious about this system? Is something not working?

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