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04-20-2019, 04:27 PM
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#15
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 10
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Yes, I have checked all of the fuses and they all checked out ok. On this funny looking stud, one wire comes from the battery breaker, a smaller wire from the front engine compartment and the other 2 share a loom and disappear to the back near the frame. I assumed one of those went to the generator and one to the fuse panel in the back. I could be wrong with my assumption, but until I can get under the coach I can not confirm.
According to the troubleshooting chart for the converter, I have a wiring problem or possibly a fuse/breaker (which I can not find).
Thanks for all of the help and ideas, I will keep looking.
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04-20-2019, 04:30 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Kennewick, Washington
Posts: 413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinboat
Don't worry about any 120 volt breakers or your converter fuses.
The converter is working to power up the 12 volt system when you plug in.
The issue is between the batteries and the fuse panel.
The issue seems to be past the disconnect solenoid, because it cuts the radio on and off, like its working. My Thor does the same thing.
You have checked the fuses in the panel, yes ?
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The description of the problem is confusing. OP states the alternator charges the house batteries, but the converter does not when on shore power, or generator. It could be the terminal post that is shown in the one picture, that could have corrosion on the rings or post. About the only thing one can do is start at the batteries, and/or the converter and see what one finds.
__________________
2004 Flair 33R, 336 watts solar, Dometic Sidewise frig. Pan hard bars, front and rear, CHF, Timbrens front and rear, Roadmaster reflex steering dampener. Doug Thorley Tri-y headers, Ultra RV tune.
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04-20-2019, 05:27 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 246
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My 1st guess is you failed to connect one of the 12V wires to the battery when you replaced the batteries.
The fact the generator starts shows a good ground and 12V to the generator. I suspect the generator power comes from the input side of a solenoid and the house side comes from the other side of the solenoid. The solenoid may click but the only way to know for sure is to measure the voltage on in and out.
__________________
Garry
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04-20-2019, 05:49 PM
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#18
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 10
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I had the same problem of no 12V power inside the coach even before the new batteries. The only thing that has changed since the new battery install is that the generator will now start from the coach batteries. Before the new batteries were installed, I would have to start the engine first and then start the generator after the motor was running. With the engine running I could measure 14.4 volts at the coach batteries.
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04-20-2019, 07:32 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,446
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Take a look at the ground stud near the batteries and for loose wires, not connected.
Its possable that Thor ran + and - wires from the fuse area to the battery compartment.
With no neg connection, no complete battery circuit.
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04-21-2019, 10:03 AM
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#20
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 10
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I have found a ground stud near the batteries and another one on the frame at the rear of the frame. Both have multiple wires landed there and all appear to be tight.
Does anyone know if the Store/Use solenoid has a connection for the coach and one for the chassis, or is it supposed to shut down both at the same time?
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04-21-2019, 10:18 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,446
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Use/store switch is coach only.
If there was a chassis disconnect, it would be seperate.
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04-21-2019, 01:30 PM
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#22
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 10
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Does the emergency start switch go to a solenoid that could tie in to this system? Is it possible for it to stick and isolate the coach batteries?
I am at a loss for now and grabbing at straws and looking for any additional possibilities.
Thanks for all of the help and suggestions.
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04-21-2019, 03:30 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,446
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This is a typical setup. You may not have the chassis solenoid.
The isolation solenoid only jumps chassis to house batteries under certain conditions.
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04-21-2019, 04:04 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brooksd
Does the emergency start switch go to a solenoid that could tie in to this system? Is it possible for it to stick and isolate the coach batteries?
I am at a loss for now and grabbing at straws and looking for any additional possibilities.
Thanks for all of the help and suggestions.
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The emergency start solenoid ties the engine battery and the house batteries together when you push and hold the switch and I doubt it is your problem.
There is another solenoid that could be the problem it is the house battery disconnect (store switch) it is used to disconnect the house batteries when RV is in storage.
The one good clue is the generator now starts that pretty much indicates the batteries have good 12V and good ground.
You will have to have a 12V tester to do any real troubleshooting. I would start with the store solenoid you should have 12V on one side of the large lug and no 12v one the other in store position and 12V on both sides in the use position. One side of the tester on ground the other on the large red wire connection.
When on shore power you are getting the 12V from the converter.
Hard to diagnose when not there but you will find the problem sooner or later.
Good luck and keep us informed on your progress.
__________________
Garry
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04-24-2019, 08:52 AM
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#25
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 10
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Good news, I found my problem with the help of John Mock with RV Custom Products.
There is a 50 amp manual reset breaker inside the Battery Control Center.
4 days looking for a 5 sec fix.
Thanks everyone for all the suggestions and support.
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04-24-2019, 05:10 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 246
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Thanks for the update glad you got it fixed.
__________________
Garry
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